Have a 22ft catalina that needs the wiring to the lights replaced. it seems, and i havent gotten to far into it yet, but,it seems that the old wiring was routed thru the fiberglass on the topside, have a few ideas to run new stuff, but would appreciate any other ideas that have worked...and yes i can do the wiring without settin anything on fire....hey pass me that gas can and that battery...but seriously,, just would like to hear what some others have done to redo the wires to the lights..thanx.....man this is a great forum...
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Don't know what they were thinking of...
when they wired these O'Days. All the wiring is sandwiched between the liner and the deck or the hull and is impossible to get at without tearing up the boat. That wouuld be OK if you never got any dampness or corrosion, but you do, and the original wiring does not appear to have been tinned. I have had to use a Dremel to cut into the liner to get at the wiring and disinter it. The results are not pretty. There is no slack. It is a major annoyance.
when they wired these O'Days. All the wiring is sandwiched between the liner and the deck or the hull and is impossible to get at without tearing up the boat. That wouuld be OK if you never got any dampness or corrosion, but you do, and the original wiring does not appear to have been tinned. I have had to use a Dremel to cut into the liner to get at the wiring and disinter it. The results are not pretty. There is no slack. It is a major annoyance.
Great word!
"disniter" - but why not just abandon it? I'd leave it there, and leave the overhead intact, adn run new wire on the overhead surface, covered by some nice and neat looking vinyl wire duct. You can get it with hidden, slef-adhesive mounting clips. jv
"disniter" - but why not just abandon it? I'd leave it there, and leave the overhead intact, adn run new wire on the overhead surface, covered by some nice and neat looking vinyl wire duct. You can get it with hidden, slef-adhesive mounting clips. jv
C-22 Wiring
Its not as neat as original, but on the C-22 you can run wires forward to cabin lights right behind the outer lip of the shelves on both sides of the cabin. Getting to forward running lights could take off from there and be hidden in a conduit placed beneath bunk cushions along the hull. Going aft would be easy to hide. Getting to mast would probably require a combined dremmel-conduit approach unless you can attach new wires to the existing and pull them through the core area. Fortunately for me, only the cabin original 1974 cabin wiring on my c-22 has had to be replaced so far. I like to replace any wiring with high quality marine wires and soldered connections. I'm not good with heat-shrink insulation, so instead I cover connections with liquid paint-on insulation or with silicon caulking. Dick
Its not as neat as original, but on the C-22 you can run wires forward to cabin lights right behind the outer lip of the shelves on both sides of the cabin. Getting to forward running lights could take off from there and be hidden in a conduit placed beneath bunk cushions along the hull. Going aft would be easy to hide. Getting to mast would probably require a combined dremmel-conduit approach unless you can attach new wires to the existing and pull them through the core area. Fortunately for me, only the cabin original 1974 cabin wiring on my c-22 has had to be replaced so far. I like to replace any wiring with high quality marine wires and soldered connections. I'm not good with heat-shrink insulation, so instead I cover connections with liquid paint-on insulation or with silicon caulking. Dick
Can't you use the old ones to pull the new ones?
Tom: Can't you use the old wires to pull the new ones. Hook them together and pull the new wires thru. Electricans use a lubricant to pull wires thru conduit. This would be a good thing to do too.
Tom: Can't you use the old wires to pull the new ones. Hook them together and pull the new wires thru. Electricans use a lubricant to pull wires thru conduit. This would be a good thing to do too.
Using the Old Wires
From the experience on my boat and on aircraft I would suggest using one of the old wires to pull a string through. Keep it long enough that you can pull both ends of the string to work the wire through. Otherwise the wire can get hung up and you may loose it from the string then you are left with no way to do it. With the string being long enough to pull on both ends when the wire hits a snag you can pull the wirte back give it a bit of a twist and it will go through or if you loose the connection with the string you can pull them back and start over again. I left the string in the run after I ran my wires so that I can run more if I need to. Do it on a day you can take your time and not get frustrated, it's a job that takes a couple of beers to get through.
From the experience on my boat and on aircraft I would suggest using one of the old wires to pull a string through. Keep it long enough that you can pull both ends of the string to work the wire through. Otherwise the wire can get hung up and you may loose it from the string then you are left with no way to do it. With the string being long enough to pull on both ends when the wire hits a snag you can pull the wirte back give it a bit of a twist and it will go through or if you loose the connection with the string you can pull them back and start over again. I left the string in the run after I ran my wires so that I can run more if I need to. Do it on a day you can take your time and not get frustrated, it's a job that takes a couple of beers to get through.
try a voltmeter first
Before condeming wires, I first check for voltage at the lights by attaching a voltmeter to the wires leading into the light (s). If I get 11 to 12 volts, I then know that lighting problems are in the fixture itself which is considerably easier to repair than installing new wire. The mast light can have problems with the deck connection that due to its exposed position. Checking this connection with a volt meter can pin point a problem quickly and save much needless time and money wasted on the wrong problem.
Before condeming wires, I first check for voltage at the lights by attaching a voltmeter to the wires leading into the light (s). If I get 11 to 12 volts, I then know that lighting problems are in the fixture itself which is considerably easier to repair than installing new wire. The mast light can have problems with the deck connection that due to its exposed position. Checking this connection with a volt meter can pin point a problem quickly and save much needless time and money wasted on the wrong problem.
voltmeter won't fix broken wires...
need to replace a few wires due to breakage,,yes i could do some splicing..but i dont really want to go there. would much rather replace wires where i can.. actually i'd rather replace all the wires, just cuz i feel it's probably time due to weather, the sea, and someone else playin with the wires, and my own piece of mind. besides,, i got nuttin else to do......ha ha...again thanx for the responses..
need to replace a few wires due to breakage,,yes i could do some splicing..but i dont really want to go there. would much rather replace wires where i can.. actually i'd rather replace all the wires, just cuz i feel it's probably time due to weather, the sea, and someone else playin with the wires, and my own piece of mind. besides,, i got nuttin else to do......ha ha...again thanx for the responses..
Forget about the existing wires
There might be 1 or 2 that are intact, but once you Ohm out the connections you'll find a lot of R where there once was a splice. The wires can't be pulled out so find the ones that are still useable and snip the rest. I was able to run 4 sets of wires behind the wood strip above the shelf. Two went all the way to the bow, The rest are for 2 cabin lights and the anchor/steaming light. From the upper, forward part of the port locker (behind the aft seat) the whole bundle comes down beside the port scupper drain. From there it's a short run to the switch panel. The only wires I was able to use were the ones going to the transom light. The trick to getting so many 14 gauge wires behind the wood strip is to push them down between the deck shell and the hull shell, with lots of RTV.
There might be 1 or 2 that are intact, but once you Ohm out the connections you'll find a lot of R where there once was a splice. The wires can't be pulled out so find the ones that are still useable and snip the rest. I was able to run 4 sets of wires behind the wood strip above the shelf. Two went all the way to the bow, The rest are for 2 cabin lights and the anchor/steaming light. From the upper, forward part of the port locker (behind the aft seat) the whole bundle comes down beside the port scupper drain. From there it's a short run to the switch panel. The only wires I was able to use were the ones going to the transom light. The trick to getting so many 14 gauge wires behind the wood strip is to push them down between the deck shell and the hull shell, with lots of RTV.
Attachments
thats what i was kinda thinkin.. bill o.
and.. i wasnt sure if maybe someone else had tried it..in my 74, i know there isnt any pulling old out for new..at least not on mine..if anyone would like to email me about this.. mrtspitfire@aol.com...
and.. i wasnt sure if maybe someone else had tried it..in my 74, i know there isnt any pulling old out for new..at least not on mine..if anyone would like to email me about this.. mrtspitfire@aol.com...
Wire duct
I recommend leaving the old wires as they are, abandoning them; and then, run new wires on the sureface of the overhead, usnig surface mount vinyl wire dict. This can be had with self adhesive clips for mounting. Adding, removing, checking wirs will be easy this way, and it looks good, too. see link and text below From the 3M web site: "The communication duct is available in three sizes. A co-extruded hinge allows access to wire and cable without stress cracking or discoloration. Four colors -- NEMA ivory, ash, gray and white -- blend discreetly with today's office environment, and custom colors are available for volume purchase. Positive latching for easier, more secure installation of wires. The foam-backed adhesive mounts quickly even on masonry walls. Symmetrical design and hidden latch mean fewer components, and the one-piece design allows for easy installation. The wide base allows greater adhesive strength and longer product life; and the base conforms to accessories for a uniform appearance. Constructed of UL Recognized Component 94V-0 PVC." jv
I recommend leaving the old wires as they are, abandoning them; and then, run new wires on the sureface of the overhead, usnig surface mount vinyl wire dict. This can be had with self adhesive clips for mounting. Adding, removing, checking wirs will be easy this way, and it looks good, too. see link and text below From the 3M web site: "The communication duct is available in three sizes. A co-extruded hinge allows access to wire and cable without stress cracking or discoloration. Four colors -- NEMA ivory, ash, gray and white -- blend discreetly with today's office environment, and custom colors are available for volume purchase. Positive latching for easier, more secure installation of wires. The foam-backed adhesive mounts quickly even on masonry walls. Symmetrical design and hidden latch mean fewer components, and the one-piece design allows for easy installation. The wide base allows greater adhesive strength and longer product life; and the base conforms to accessories for a uniform appearance. Constructed of UL Recognized Component 94V-0 PVC." jv
problem with wire duct.
i use wire duct in my job and i had thought about using it.. cept i'm not sure how well it will stand up to moist conditions...specially if im out sailing and it decides to start peeling and dangling from wherever i put it..
i use wire duct in my job and i had thought about using it.. cept i'm not sure how well it will stand up to moist conditions...specially if im out sailing and it decides to start peeling and dangling from wherever i put it..
I'm almost done
with the wiring of my boat. All that's left is to mount a few internal lights, fix the mast lights, and paint a few things. Here are some pictures of the work I've done recently on my boat-> http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Station/4338/electrical.html The batteries should stay put no matter what the boat's heel angle. One bilge pump is directly connected to the starboard battery.
with the wiring of my boat. All that's left is to mount a few internal lights, fix the mast lights, and paint a few things. Here are some pictures of the work I've done recently on my boat-> http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Station/4338/electrical.html The batteries should stay put no matter what the boat's heel angle. One bilge pump is directly connected to the starboard battery.
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