Redoing 1984 H34 reefing system

[Mike Oldak]

I had another opportunity to reef our main in a 20+ knot wind. Once again I was reminded how "questionable" it was to have to go up on deck to hook the main and pull on the reefing line, then carefully walk back to the cockpit. I was wondering if anyone else has already redone the reefing system to have the lines all moved back to the cockpit.

PS We're about to replace our main so we can get a main with reefing holes at the front of the main and eliminate the rings that are currently in place.

 

[kappykaplan]

An option to make reefing safer in heavy winds is to furl the jib, then use the iron jenny to drive into to wind. Keeps the boat on her feet and much safer for the operator(s).

 

[rgranger]

I redid mine. My boom already had a reefing line that secured the clew but like you... I had to walk forward and put the tack reffing grommet in the horn. I added a second deck organizer and a block at the base of the mast.

Now: For the reefing grommet at the tack (the one you are now putting in the horn) I have a line that goes from the cockpit to the deck organizer, turns and goes to the block at the base of the mast... then up and through the reefing grommet and then terminates in an eye splice on the mast right next to the gooseneck. Now I just need to loosen the halyard and pull on the tack reefing line and the tack grommet gets pulled tight to the gooseneck. Then I pull on the clew reefing line and I'm done. Both lines come to the cockpit through the deck organizers and terminate in a clutch. I can even use the winch if I need to but you don't want to get carried away with that. I guess you don't have to have deck organizers but they help direct the lines toward the gunwale and keep things a little cleaner.
Here is a diagram I modified from a single line system. This would be a double line system. I also included a few shots of the organizer installation. Hope it gives you an idea to work with.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Double line reefing is better than single line reefing - most boats come factory supplied with double line reefing: a horn at the tack and a separate clew line; running them back to the cockpit is a good idea.

 

[Sailfanatic]

Here's a video that explains the single line reefing system as implemented by a number of builders, this from a 1987 Pearson 31-2. It requires a boom endcap at the gooseneck with two sets of rollers. If you have such an endcap or can upgrade your boom, its a very nice and slick system.

 

[Mike Oldak]

Reposting here in correct forum -

I had another opportunity to reef our main in a 20+ knot wind. Once again I was reminded how "questionable" it was to have to go up on deck to hook the main and pull on the reefing line, then carefully walk back to the cockpit. I was wondering if anyone else has already redone the reefing system to have the lines all moved back to the cockpit.

PS We're about to replace our main so we can get a main with reefing holes at the front of the main and eliminate the rings that are currently in place.

 

[jssailem]

Mike it is a decision each makes. Staying in the cockpit and having the lines run to the cokpit adds an element of friction to the process and complication to the system.

I happen to find reefing at the Mast is positive and simple.

1. It encourages you to reef early.
2. You go forward and you can inspect the rest of the gear on the boat before a blow. Not possible from the cockpit.
3. If you use well designed jack lines and tethers you can feel safe moving about on the boat in a breeze.
4. Lin Pardey used to say that if you can not walk to the bow and back on a boat in 20 knots of wind you were not ready to go on an Ocean passage. Teach yourself to walk on a boat in 10 - 15 - 20 - 25 plus knots of wind. When you can feel "ok" about it then you are ready for your first passage.
5. Make sure your life lines are in good shape, use good gripping shoes, use the hand holds as you move about the boat, and do not think any less of yourself if there comes a time to get down on your knees and crawl across the deck.

Reefing in wind is sailing. If you practice it a lot you will become good at applying the skill. Make sure that your reefing system is simple to affect. When the storm hits simple is best.

 

[Mike Oldak]

Mike it is a decision each makes. Staying in the cockpit and having the lines run to the cokpit adds an element of friction to the process and complication to the system.

I happen to find reefing at the Mast is positive and simple.

1. It encourages you to reef early.
2. You go forward and you can inspect the rest of the gear on the boat before a blow. Not possible from the cockpit.
3. If you use well designed jack lines and tethers you can feel safe moving about on the boat in a breeze.
4. Lin Pardey used to say that if you can not walk to the bow and back on a boat in 20 knots of wind you were not ready to go on an Ocean passage. Teach yourself to walk on a boat in 10 - 15 - 20 - 25 plus knots of wind. When you can feel "ok" about it then you are ready for your first passage.
5. Make sure your life lines are in good shape, use good gripping shoes, use the hand holds as you move about the boat, and do not think any less of yourself if there comes a time to get down on your knees and crawl across the deck.

Reefing in wind is sailing. If you practice it a lot you will become good at applying the skill. Make sure that your reefing system is simple to affect. When the storm hits simple is best.

I'm generally the only real sailor with family and friends. I've sailed for 40 years and have been on deck many times during a blow, but why chose macho over safety and ease?

 

[jssailem]

why chose macho over safety and ease?

I was not questioning your experience or abilities. In 40 years of sailing I suspect you possess that ability.

When considering how to design and set a reef on your boat you are the owner and it is your decision. Yes many boats have rigged their boat to put in or take out a reef from the cockpit. To be successful you need to use quality gear and maintain the lines fair. Friction is your enemy. The challenge is that you may still have to leave the cockpit and go to the mast if the rigging fouls.

I am suggesting there are advantages to designing your reef plan both ways. Being safely on deck when the sea is not calm is a learned skill. Even though you set the reef from the cockpit, if I know we are in for a blow, I inspect the deck bow to stern. I check the lashings are secure, that the anchor is tied, the halyard tails are stowed - reefing on my boat is just a part of that preparation.

Fair winds.

 

[Mike Oldak]

Sorry for the earlier response, I guess it just a matter of how you want to enjoy the sail. I've been dropping sails rather than reefing because if I do fall over board there generally is no one else on board that can easily or quickly pick me up. I just prefer to make my sailing experience easier and for me safer. I guess a point of preference.

 

[Hunter216]

I don’t know if you already have a rigid vang - boomkicker type device to hold your boom up during the reef. An adjustable topping lift can do the same thing of course but it’s adds to the amount of lines that need handling. I’m sure you already know this but.....

For example my little 216 came with a topping lift and a two line reef setup. Sailing along with the topping lift slack, time to reef, put the “right” amount of tension on the topping lift BEFORE slacking the main halyard, reef, slack topping lift again. If I forget to tighten the topping lift ( senior moment ) I find myself trying to manhandle the boom while reefing

I added a boomkicker which holds the boom up or even raises it if I slack the vang during the reef. A few adjustments less that has value where I sail as the wind strength can ramp up rapidly. Much happier with the current setup.

 

[jssailem]

I just prefer to make my sailing experience easier and for me safer.

In this we are both in total agreement. As noted in previous threads, I sail solo a bit. When I have crew, I trust myself to manage the more challenging tasks. I think the boat owner usually moves about their boat in a safer manner then visiting crew. When going out to cruise, I rig my jack lines and tethers. They allow me to stand up and lean back without touching the lifelines/pulpits that encircle the deck. I always wear a PFD with harness and sometimes, when solo sailing a dry suit. I consider that boat edge to be a 500 ft drop to the water that I am trying to avoid.

I am guessing we are going sailing under different conditions.

Even recreational sailing I would encourage the use of a PFD and instruction/practice with the crew on recovery procedures. Knowing that there is someone on board to act should the unthinkable happen and you find yourself in the water is reassuring. Those on board need to know how to stop the boat and call for help. Hopefully they have been told they must not loose sight of you in the water.

 

[Artey1]

Mike, while I'm highly inexperienced compared to your resume, I find reefing difficult for a few different reasons on my H34 and will be watching what you do with yours for tips and future possibilities. My normal process is topping lift on, mainsheet and vang slacked, lower halyard, lose 1-3 slides out of the mast gate so the luff reefing ring can reach, put luff ring on hook, raise/tighten halyard, then pull in the clew ring reefing line, and finally adjust outhaul and loosen topping lift, retrim mainsheet and vang. Pretty standard on most boats I think.

Where I run into trouble is the luff ring always wants to come undone especially in gustier conditions as my wife battles to keep us head to wind (we're still slow at the process), the other is the clew ring doesn't really seem to snug down to the boom very well unless I loosen the main halyard a second time, pull the clew ring in really tight, then reraise the halyard a second time. The last time we did this, I didn't catch that the luff ring slipped out again and I put a hole in the luff of my main with the reefing horn!!! My own mistake but its how we learn.

I have been thinking of going to double line reefing by using turning blocks at the mast base, using existing luff rings and running luff reefing lines tied off at the boom like you would the clew side lines. Run from boom, through rings, down to turning blocks, through deck organizers and to additional clutches on starboard side. I'd then run the clew side reefing lines similar but down to port through additional clutches. This would eliminate my issues with the luff ring, and give me better control to really get the reef close down to the boom rather than 12" off of it. My main hanging point is what to do about the luff cars that I normally remove and subsequently put back when shaking out the reef.

 

[Hunter216]

@Artey1
Do you have flying cringle rings on the luff? Basically two rings connected via a strap through the “normal” cringle ring of the sail. When you lower the main you slip one ring on the horn, lot easier and faster to handle than trying to force the folds of the sail out of the way to get the “normal” cringle on the horn.

The other approach would be to have a line attached to one side of the boom, up through the luff cringle and down to a block or whatever. The line stays rigged at all times. Can’t slip off

 

[DrJudyB]

My normal process is topping lift on, mainsheet and vang slacked, lower halyard, lose 1-3 slides out of the mast gate so the luff reefing ring can reach, put luff ring on hook, raise/tighten halyard, then pull in the clew ring reefing line, and finally adjust outhaul and loosen topping lift, retrim mainsheet and vang. Pretty standard on most boats I think.

If the slides are correctly spaced, you shouldn't need to loosen them from the track via the gate in order to reef. The "slab" should flop down and the floppy rings (aka dog bone) should be pretty close to the reefing horn/hook.

 

[Artey1]

@Artey1
Do you have flying cringle rings on the luff? Basically two rings connected via a strap through the “normal” cringle ring of the sail. When you lower the main you slip one ring on the horn, lot easier and faster to handle than trying to force the folds of the sail out of the way to get the “normal” cringle on the horn.

The other approach would be to have a line attached to one side of the boom, up through the luff cringle and down to a block or whatever. The line stays rigged at all times. Can’t slip off

Nope just a normal cringle ring. No flying cringle. Your 2nd idea is what I am leaning toward doing, but still have the luff slides to find a solution for.

 

[Artey1]

If the slides are correctly spaced, you shouldn't need to loosen them from the track via the gate in order to reef. The "slab" should flop down and the floppy rings (aka dog bone) should be pretty close to the reefing horn/hook.

Thanks Judy for the drawing. I'm not sure but maybe my slides aren't in the right place? I think this is a common issue on the H34. Definitely interested to hear Mike's (OPs) view.

 

[Hunter216]

but still have the luff slides to find a solution for

Here is thread that might be helpful.

H34, it seems I have to remove 2 cars to reef, help

Hi guys. We have our hunter 34 mostly setup, It's new to us and we're just figuring things out. My wife and I were looking at the sails, figuring out what it looks like to reef and such. It appears that the cars sit so high in the slider that the reef points wont reach AND we even have...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[Mike Oldak]

THANKS FOR ALL THE COMMENTS! Maybe my lack of reefing (in favor of an iron jib or maybe just choosing not to sail that day) have led to a definite lack of reefing experience. Hopefully if I feel more comfortable with a reefing system that is cockpit controlled, I'll feel more comfortable sailing during some of the stronger blows.

But I don't ever remember having to remove any of the cars in order to catch the ring over the hook on my 84 H34 with a Kenyon boom. We're at a point where the main sail is being replaced and now have the option to go from hook and ring to reefing lines into the cockpit using some of the new "frictionless" cringles on a new sail. We're meeting a local Chesapeake sail making on the boat on Monday to talk options.

 

[jssailem]

Mike. PM @Hayden Watson. I know he is a Catalina owner and likely is not watching the Hunter forum. But putting that aside, he has rigged his 31 foot boat with a rather efficient in cockpit reefing system. You may get an idea or two from his set up that could help you with your planned modifications.