Red Coolant Recommendation?
- Thread starter jviss
- Start date
Do you mean orange? I've never seen red coolant. Dexcool is orange. Any auto parts store carries Dexcool or equivalent.
Interesting. Red just says transmission fluid to me.
The manual doesn't specify what type other than a good 50/50 mix.
https://www.westerbeke.com/operator's manual/37435_35b_38b_42b_operat_man.pdf
The manual doesn't specify what type other than a good 50/50 mix.
https://www.westerbeke.com/operator's manual/37435_35b_38b_42b_operat_man.pdf
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,749
Here you go..
Then there is this recommendation:
The color of healthy engine coolant is green (for ethylene glycol) or orange (for Dexcool). A rusty color indicates that the rust inhibitor in the coolant has broken down and it can no longer control rust and scale buildup.Apr 10, 2018
Now it is a real smorgasbord out there. Then there is this recommendation:
Can you mix different kinds of coolant?
"Traditional" coolants (often green or yellow) generally use silicates, while "new style" (generally orange or pink) coolants use organic acids. GM's DexCool is an example of a newer organic acid coolant. These two types shouldn't be mixed if possible, as the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors can be reduced.Sep 17, 2013
"Traditional" coolants (often green or yellow) generally use silicates, while "new style" (generally orange or pink) coolants use organic acids. GM's DexCool is an example of a newer organic acid coolant. These two types shouldn't be mixed if possible, as the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors can be reduced.Sep 17, 2013
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
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Then there is this consideration....
PEAK® is the pioneer and market leader in the safer propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze category. SIERRA® Antifreeze/Coolant is formulated with PG rather than ethylene glycol – the base for traditional antifreeze. Because of its PG formula, SIERRA® Antifreeze is less toxic and therefore safer for people, pets, and wildlife than conventional antifreeze. It is a premium automotive coolant that provides excellent freeze-up and boil-over protection and outstanding corrosion protection. Specific benefits include:
- Provides excellent engine protection against freeze-up, boil-over and corrosion, while maintaining heat transfer properties
- Helps prevent accidental poisoning of pets
- Helps protect wildlife in the environment SIERRA® Antifreeze is a propylene-based antifreeze that requires the use of a special ball tester to check its freezing point.
If you don't know what antifreeze you have in your engine that means it is time to change it out, flush and replace it. Yanmar recommends annual changes to flush any salt contamination from your heat exchanger leading to corrosion. We have an antifreeze expert here - Thinwater. A search of the forum will find his advice regarding antifreeze and propylene glycol v. ethylene glycol.
And YOU. The antifreeze coolant cycles through your hot water heater and right out your galley and head water taps. If that loop fails, you have antifreeze contaminated hot water
Read the manual and see what it specs. There are at least 7 common colors, including rubine red. Unfortunately, color is only a hint as to chemistry and there is no industry standard (I'm on the ASTM committee). We made multiple green, yellow, and blue formulas with very different chemistries (for example, there is LD green, HD green, OAT green, and amine green).
And Gunni hit it on the head; there is no such thing as long-life marine AF. Too many salt leaks. For marine applications, most manufacturers recomend 1-2 years. tops. Just change it.
(I spent 20 years in the AF formulation business as a product development guy)
And Gunni hit it on the head; there is no such thing as long-life marine AF. Too many salt leaks. For marine applications, most manufacturers recomend 1-2 years. tops. Just change it.
(I spent 20 years in the AF formulation business as a product development guy)
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Thanks, thinwater, and others who replied. It's a bright, ruby red and there's no ATF on my boat, so that is ruled out! (My JS gear uses SAE 30 oil.) I hesitate to change it since it was supposedly fully serviced in the fall before it was launched for the sea trial; but who really knows. I may call the full-service yard who supposedly did it.
The Westerbeke manual is not very specific. (It's a 38B-Four.) . Here's what it says:
A. Fresh Water Coolant (Antifreeze) Mixture.
A freshwater and antifreeze mixture should be used year-round in the cooling system. Water, when it freezes, expands sufficiently to split the heat exchanger and crack the engine block. A water/antWreeze mixture of proper concentration will prevent freezing (see page 53 for an antifreeze/water mixture chart).
Use soft water with few impurities, such as tap water (potable water) or rainwater. Never use hard or foul water. Use of hard water or water containing impurities will lead to the collection of scale in the engine and heat exchanger which will reduce the cooling system's efficiency.
Antifreeze of poor quality or without rust inhibitors will cause corrosion within the cooling system. Always use antrrreeze which is compatible wah aluminum cooling system components and is made by a reliable manufacturer. Never mix different brands of antifreeze.
Make sure that the cooling system of the engine is well cleaned before adding antifreeze. Recommended antifreeze for year round use is ZEREX or PRESTONE with rust inhibitors.
In order to control the concentration of the mixture, mix the antifreeze and freshwater thoroughly before adding it to the cooling system.
It thens goes on give concentrations for various freezing temps.A freshwater and antifreeze mixture should be used year-round in the cooling system. Water, when it freezes, expands sufficiently to split the heat exchanger and crack the engine block. A water/antWreeze mixture of proper concentration will prevent freezing (see page 53 for an antifreeze/water mixture chart).
Use soft water with few impurities, such as tap water (potable water) or rainwater. Never use hard or foul water. Use of hard water or water containing impurities will lead to the collection of scale in the engine and heat exchanger which will reduce the cooling system's efficiency.
Antifreeze of poor quality or without rust inhibitors will cause corrosion within the cooling system. Always use antrrreeze which is compatible wah aluminum cooling system components and is made by a reliable manufacturer. Never mix different brands of antifreeze.
Make sure that the cooling system of the engine is well cleaned before adding antifreeze. Recommended antifreeze for year round use is ZEREX or PRESTONE with rust inhibitors.
In order to control the concentration of the mixture, mix the antifreeze and freshwater thoroughly before adding it to the cooling system.
I think many of today’s modern antifreeze coolants can be mixed (green or red). That was not the case in the past, and you had to use one or the other. I recall that mixing them would cause them to coagulate into a thick mess. Today, if you check the labels, you can find some that will mix with either red or green.
But like was suggested, I would drain, flush and replace with a know coolant.
Greg
But like was suggested, I would drain, flush and replace with a know coolant.
Greg
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,749
Those Westerbeke instructions were probably written at least 25 years ago, based on some of the language. For example, Prestone and Zerex both make multiple products, whereas in the past they made only one. Also, the modern water guidance (all manufacturers, ASTM standard) is distilled or DI water, similar to battery water (there is a spec).
Interesting. Basically no guidance. Just use a good AF.
Reguarding concentration, a 50/50 mixed (freeze point -34F) is required for proper corrosion protection. Climate is not considered a factor.
Interesting. Basically no guidance. Just use a good AF.
Reguarding concentration, a 50/50 mixed (freeze point -34F) is required for proper corrosion protection. Climate is not considered a factor.
Thank you. Can you possibly make a recommendation, both for topping off my red stuff, and for replacing when I flush it? (I have a refractometer so I can measure specific gravity/freezing point.)
I can't be sure what the red stuff is, so no. As for refill, orange Decool (Texaco, Xerex, and Prestone all package compatible versions) is well proven and suitable for smaller diesels. There are more esoteric and expensive specialty products, but you are probably better off using this and changing every few years.
As for the EG/PG debate, propylene glycol may be less toxic to mammals (this is why we use it in potable water systems), but there is NO DIFFERENCE in marine toxicity. Look up the MSDSs for each. It turns out that like chocolate is bad for dogs, glycol is only a problem for mammals. Not fish, not invertebrates, not to bacteria, and not plants. It is related to sugars and has rather narrow toxicity. Both are equally biodegradeable and neither bioacumulates. You can look all of this up. Most boating web sites simply have not done their homework on this.
As for the EG/PG debate, propylene glycol may be less toxic to mammals (this is why we use it in potable water systems), but there is NO DIFFERENCE in marine toxicity. Look up the MSDSs for each. It turns out that like chocolate is bad for dogs, glycol is only a problem for mammals. Not fish, not invertebrates, not to bacteria, and not plants. It is related to sugars and has rather narrow toxicity. Both are equally biodegradeable and neither bioacumulates. You can look all of this up. Most boating web sites simply have not done their homework on this.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,749
