Reconnecting...

[John]

Okay, here's another question - maybe just a minor detail.

I'll be pulling the keel stepped mast of my C36 on Monday. I'll have to cut the wires that go up the mast (lights and antenna). To reconnect them, would you recommend heat-shrink connectors, or install a bus bar? I was planning to use the connectors, but one guy recommended the bus bar.

 

[Ross]

Is this the only time you or anyone will pull the mast?

 

[sailaway78]

Keel stepped mast

I recently had the keel stepped mast off. What I did was run all wiring in one continious run, to the terminal end. No connectors anywhere. While a little more of a PITA, it eliminates any connection in the bilge, which always stays wet. No more often than the mast comes down, won't be a major problem, and one less thing to worry about.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Really!? The wire runs are continuous? Mine go about two feet to a terminal strip on top of a bilge frame. If yours is not like that it would be simple enough to do. Mark both sides of the wire at the cut. Cut them where you can mount a terminal strip high in the bilge where they will never get wet. Crimp and solder nice round wire ends on the boat side and mount them on one side of the strip. Same for the mast end. Hard to believe they are not terminated that way somewhere already.

 

[sailaway78]

Continous wire runs

When I had the mast off, I completely rewired all of it. The wiring runs for the anchor light, steaming light and antenna are all one piece. No connections. I have enough slack, that if it has to come off again, for whatever reason, I will put a terminal strip in there up high, to stay dry. But till the mast comes off again, there is no terminal of any kind.

 

[John]

I have no plans to pull the mast again, but you never know.

I tried to pull one of the wires through with a messenger line tied to the end, but it wouldn't pull through - too tight in there. Running a continuous wire (as it is now) is my preference, but it would be a real pain to run it under the sole, etc.

 

[Maine Sail]

John

John,

Catalina traditionally uses a very cheap "trailer" type connector that is usually stuffed inside the base of the spar. As the crane hoists it you can reach up in and disconnect it. There really is no way for the wires to be a continuous run from the top of the mast to the panel. I'll try and find a photo in my database...

If you have the wire length inside the spar to bring them out into the cabin then a buss bar with heat shrink ring or captive spade connectors is the way to go. Having them trapped inside the base of the spar really limits your ability to trouble shoot mast wiring connections or test continuity.

 

[John]

Thanks, Maine. The yard where I'm having the mast pulled does not allow the customer to be on the boat while they're pulling the mast due to insurance requirements. In any case, reaching up inside the mast when it's raised a little would not be my idea of fun. (Before I retired, I also always tried to avoid getting under a load that a crane was swinging.) I'm pretty sure that there is actually space, and enough slack in the wire to put a buss bar on the cabin sole, between the mast and the end of the bulkhead I'm replacing. This would keep it out of the bilge, but also out of the way of people's feet. I hadn't thought about testing connectivity for future problems, but with that in mind, I guess a buss bar is the best way to go.

 

[duality]

my catalina 400 has a open buss bar for the lights a covered raymarine bar for the wind transducer and screw connectors for the radio antenna and tv antenna. the bars are mounted on the high part of the bilge by the keel step and everything is dry.

mike

 

[ITMaster]

John, to answer your initial question, since you have said you will cut the wires, what I would do is this.

I would assume you plan on running new wiring from the top of the mast down once you get the mast off before you re-step it.

If, so, then get a terminal strip / buss bar and a suitable water tight container / box with a lid and gasket that you could put the terminal strip inside of. Put the strip inside the box, run the wires through some gromets inside the box and connect the wires inside the box to the terminal strip and run the wires on out and to your panel at the nav station. Close it up, seal it up with some caulking or some other water tight sealant and mount, tie, affix the box up high inside the bilge close to the spot where you will restep the mast and not worry about it until next time. If you need a picture, ask and I go to the boat and get one of mine for you.

 

[John]

I hadn't thought of replacing the wires inside the mast. I suppose that would make sense, given that they're ten years old. I like the idea of a water-tight box to place the buss bar in.

 

[mutualfun]

John:
I have #1057 which is a 1990 Catalina 36 and I have a enclosed and sealed box that the wires go into. There is then a small buss bar with 8 connection points for the mast head light, anchor lite, wind inst and running lights and deck lite. I have an access door right at the base of the mast and it sets in there. Way above he cabin floor. So if it ever gets wet, the inside of the cabin floor will be flooded.
Randy