Recommendations for Brait Anchor line

kloudie1 · Mar 27, 2016

I have about 25 feet of chain and a couple hundred feet of 5/8 three strand (gold, normal twisted) nylon rode .. I like the stretch of the three strand to lessen shock loads at anchor. The three strand is less expensive too.. You might need another 50 or so feet for water that deep.. I rarely anchor in more than 15 feet of water, and in mud/clay/sand.

BigEasy · Mar 27, 2016

Ilan, I second kloudie's recommendation. I also like 5/8" 3 strand nylon because of its stretch and economy. It's also easiest to splice to chain. If you have a windlass you will have to taper the chain to rhode splice and it is easy to do with 3 strand. I use 35' of 3/8" chain that is acceptable for my windlass. Don't forget to use a high quality anchor shackle such as those made by Crosby manufacturing; I prefer to not use a swivel due to the cost & that they can sometimes bend or break with excessive lateral loads. You will have to calculate the length of line required for your locale. For a chain / nylon rhode, I have always read that the length of chain should be approximately the length of the boat. Seems that most outlets have this on sale in Spring so be on the watch.

jssailem · Mar 27, 2016

Ilan, I too agree with the chain and nylon rode combo.

Some folks prefer the shackle to a thimble connection between the chain and the nylon rode. An alternative that is a bit easier to use when you have a windless and bow roller is a rode to chain splice. Two ways "how to do it" are located here.

http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html This system braids the nylon rode into the chain.

Samson (the rope maker) splices rode back onto it's self. http://www.samsonrope.com/Documents/Splice Instructions/3Strand_C1_Rope to Chain_AUG2012_WEB.pdf

Both work. All require the Skipper, Captain or who ever is in charge of securing the boat at anchor to monitor the connection for wear and chafe.

BigEasy · Mar 27, 2016

Just wanted to clarify; the shackle that I use is between the anchor & chain. The threaded pin in the shackle is safety wired with SS wire. (The shackle is used instead of a swivel). The back splice is located at the chain to rhode connection. You could use a thimble at that connection; however, the back splice is much cleaner and is a necessity if you use a windlass. As JS mentioned you have to check the splice periodically for chafe where the nylon strands attach to the chain. Check out you tube for some great videos on how to splice 3 strand to chain. Really not difficult.

Ron20324 · Mar 27, 2016

did you google yale brait rope?

jssailem · Mar 27, 2016

The stretch will help to reduce the pull on the anchor. If there is a lot of chop your anchor will more likely stay in place while the nylon rode takes up the movement. If on a buoy the stretch will soften the pull between the boat and buoy. Without the stretch you'll have the rode snapping against the cleat and you'll feel a jerk every time a jerk motors by causing a wake.

kloudie1 · Mar 27, 2016

The stretchy stuff is a lot more comfortable in wakes or chop.. like john says, the boat snatches up hard against any little slack if you are not using three strand..

kito · Mar 28, 2016

I have no windlass either and plan on using 8 plait (brait) for my anchor rode with 30' g4 chain spliced to it. My anchor locker is small and the 8 plait takes up less room since it coils up flatter than the same size 3 strand. Something you may want to consider.

Steverhnm · Mar 28, 2016

In my experience I have found 8 Plait to be awesome. 2x the strength and 1/3 the space required. On the 35.5 the anchor locker lacks depth. I replaced a locker FULL of 3 strand (which has a tendency to get twisted - hard to store) to end up with 2/3 of my locker space reclaimed and the most supple, easiest line through the windless. If using a windless or you have space issues, 8 plait is the best. Easy to splice to chain.

PeterBld · Mar 28, 2016

I noticed some comments on swivels. I agree with the point about them being a potential weak link. I understand from engineers that this can be overcome by high spec-img the swivel. Expensive. But I have never had it explained to me why a swivel would be used given it is at the anchor end of the rode where there is no twist to release. Can anyone explain ??

Amae · Mar 28, 2016

What do you tie the anchor rode off to? Do you use the cheat in the anchor locker or one of the cleats on the bow?

Steverhnm · Mar 28, 2016

I use the D ring in the anchor locker. But you should never get to that end. I don't think I would count on it for anything else other than to keep all my line from going overboard. You need a chain stopper (and snubber) if you are anchored on just chain. Otherwise I tie the rode off to one of the fwd cleats but ALWAYS put on chafe protection where the rode goes through the bow roller.

As far as swivels, I sell you a couple o' nice ones, cheap.... Practical sailor will tell you it's the weak link. While I have one on mine, I am leaning to agreeing with them and may be taking my expensive Suncor swivel off my anchor. It's a pig going through the bow roller as well, especially if you oversize like I did to compensate for it being the weak link....

jssailem · Mar 28, 2016

Amae said:
What do you tie the anchor rode off to? Do you use the cheat in the anchor locker or one of the cleats on the bow?

Both:

With the rode that is off the boat to the anchor, you tie it to a bow cleat.
With any rode left in the locker, it should be tied to a secure point, like a padeye thru bolted and with backing plate.
1. You throw your anchor into the water and the rode plays out. You want it secured to the boat just in case you guessed wrong as to how deep it is under the boat. We have some places here in the PacificNW that it is 300 feet deep or more only 20 yards from shore. Some times the depth meter reads --- depth. Beyond the capacity of the unit to get a return signal.
2. You want to secure line to the boat. In case you are using all chain, secure a line to the end of the chain -say 5 feet of line. Then secure the line to the boat inside the anchor locker. Should you be in an emergency that requires you to urgently drop the anchor to save the boat, it is a lot easier to cut a line than chain.

Nodak7 · Mar 29, 2016

PeterBld said:
I noticed some comments on swivels. I agree with the point about them being a potential weak link. I understand from engineers that this can be overcome by high spec-img the swivel. Expensive. But I have never had it explained to me why a swivel would be used given it is at the anchor end of the rode where there is no twist to release. Can anyone explain ??

Peter, I will take a stab at answering your question. First off I was also a believer that the swivel is a potential weak spot in the ground tackle. As a matter of fact I saw one break in half on a friends rode. I did not like them because I could not "inspect" the mechanism. However when I was at the Miami boat show I visited the Mantus display and saw how theirs worked. I was impressed for two reasons. It was a great system which could be dismantled and inspected (every part) and it works great. I was also impressed with the strong connections to the anchor and chain. I now have one on our rode. As to why one is needed.... we have an all chain rode and a 54lb delta. First reason for the swivel.. Occasionally it would come up "reversed" and it is difficult to get it turned around to properly cradle it. The swivel eliminates this problem. Second reason.. As your boat works around the anchor it "twists" the rode and that in turn can put a twist on the anchor if it stretches out. Again the swivel eliminates the potential for is problem. Hope this helps!

Terry Cox · Mar 29, 2016

The following links you to an article that I wrote about our anchoring system that has worked for us over the years. Warp splice eliminates the need for shackles, swivels, rings, etc.

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=45&aid=8270&mn=42

Steverhnm · Mar 29, 2016

http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html
I use this as well.

dakno · May 21, 2016

Nodak7...You have done you homework on your ground tackle. I have a new to me 08 41ds and am in the process of upgrading ground tackle. I have the SL windless but have not found any identification as to which model I have? My present thought is for a mantus 55, 90' appropriate chain ..looks like 5/16". Most of my anchoring is in 10'. Doing the math for a 7/1 rhode, 10' water + 5' freeboard = 15' x 6 =90' chain + 15' 3 strand totals 105' (7/1). The last 15' nylon would keep chain off the bow and provide stretch/shock relief. Can you shoot any holes in this plan? My #2 anchor is a Fortress fx-37. Thanks

Recommendations for Brait Anchor line

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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