I would like to pick up a nice DVM for electrical trouble-shooting on my boat. I would really like a unit with a DC clamp-on ammeter that is rugged and will survive the marine environment. Other than that, all I need is the basics - AC and DC Volts and Ohms. I guess it will have to be a true RMS unit to read current out of an inverter. I've had units with AC clamp-ons, but not a unit for DC. I do not know how accurate they are, or if there are any reccomendations. Does anyone out there have any suggestions for a DVM that they have used and found to be a good unit?
Recommendations for 12 Volt DVM
- Thread starter Steve Brown
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I would like to pick up a nice DVM for electrical trouble-shooting on my boat. I would really like a unit with a DC clamp-on ammeter that is rugged and will survive the marine environment. Other than that, all I need is the basics - AC and DC Volts and Ohms. I guess it will have to be a true RMS unit to read current out of an inverter. I've had units with AC clamp-ons, but not a unit for DC. I do not know how accurate they are, or if there are any reccomendations. Does anyone out there have any suggestions for a DVM that they have used and found to be a good unit?
While I have Fluke..
While I have a Fluke I just don't use it on the baot because it was sooo expensive. For the boat I've been using my UEI DM383 for about ten years now and it's no worse for the wear. They are basically a knock off of Fluke and very, very reasonably priced.. UEI Test Equipment: http://www.ueitest.com/
While I have a Fluke I just don't use it on the baot because it was sooo expensive. For the boat I've been using my UEI DM383 for about ten years now and it's no worse for the wear. They are basically a knock off of Fluke and very, very reasonably priced.. UEI Test Equipment: http://www.ueitest.com/
While I have Fluke..
While I have a Fluke I just don't use it on the baot because it was sooo expensive. For the boat I've been using my UEI DM383 for about ten years now and it's no worse for the wear. They are basically a knock off of Fluke and very, very reasonably priced.. UEI Test Equipment: http://www.ueitest.com/
While I have a Fluke I just don't use it on the baot because it was sooo expensive. For the boat I've been using my UEI DM383 for about ten years now and it's no worse for the wear. They are basically a knock off of Fluke and very, very reasonably priced.. UEI Test Equipment: http://www.ueitest.com/
fluke is the way to go
FLuke is the way to go, may be the last meter you buy...pickup a used one on one of the auction sites, or buy new. SMall price to pay for a very good instrument...tie a lanyard to it and hang it over a winch head, or in the engine room, won't fall overboard. One of the few products today that live up to their advertisement and claims. If you want a good "old" meter, go with simpson...super quality needle/meter and a few bucks less... easier on theold eyes perhaps... dave
FLuke is the way to go, may be the last meter you buy...pickup a used one on one of the auction sites, or buy new. SMall price to pay for a very good instrument...tie a lanyard to it and hang it over a winch head, or in the engine room, won't fall overboard. One of the few products today that live up to their advertisement and claims. If you want a good "old" meter, go with simpson...super quality needle/meter and a few bucks less... easier on theold eyes perhaps... dave
fluke is the way to go
FLuke is the way to go, may be the last meter you buy...pickup a used one on one of the auction sites, or buy new. SMall price to pay for a very good instrument...tie a lanyard to it and hang it over a winch head, or in the engine room, won't fall overboard. One of the few products today that live up to their advertisement and claims. If you want a good "old" meter, go with simpson...super quality needle/meter and a few bucks less... easier on theold eyes perhaps... dave
FLuke is the way to go, may be the last meter you buy...pickup a used one on one of the auction sites, or buy new. SMall price to pay for a very good instrument...tie a lanyard to it and hang it over a winch head, or in the engine room, won't fall overboard. One of the few products today that live up to their advertisement and claims. If you want a good "old" meter, go with simpson...super quality needle/meter and a few bucks less... easier on theold eyes perhaps... dave
DC clamp-on?
I have not heard of a DC clamp-on amp meter. The principle of a clamp-on amp meter is like a transformer. Only AC within certain frequency can be detected or "stepped up" thru the steel clamp so that the coil inside the meter can sense voltage. The voltage is calibrated as current. You should never loop the wire more than once inside the yoke as you'll get twice the input. In order to measure high current DC you'll need a shunt of known resistance and unaffected by temperature. Measure the voltage drop across the shunt and the ohm's law will give you the current.
I have not heard of a DC clamp-on amp meter. The principle of a clamp-on amp meter is like a transformer. Only AC within certain frequency can be detected or "stepped up" thru the steel clamp so that the coil inside the meter can sense voltage. The voltage is calibrated as current. You should never loop the wire more than once inside the yoke as you'll get twice the input. In order to measure high current DC you'll need a shunt of known resistance and unaffected by temperature. Measure the voltage drop across the shunt and the ohm's law will give you the current.
DC clamp-on?
I have not heard of a DC clamp-on amp meter. The principle of a clamp-on amp meter is like a transformer. Only AC within certain frequency can be detected or "stepped up" thru the steel clamp so that the coil inside the meter can sense voltage. The voltage is calibrated as current. You should never loop the wire more than once inside the yoke as you'll get twice the input. In order to measure high current DC you'll need a shunt of known resistance and unaffected by temperature. Measure the voltage drop across the shunt and the ohm's law will give you the current.
I have not heard of a DC clamp-on amp meter. The principle of a clamp-on amp meter is like a transformer. Only AC within certain frequency can be detected or "stepped up" thru the steel clamp so that the coil inside the meter can sense voltage. The voltage is calibrated as current. You should never loop the wire more than once inside the yoke as you'll get twice the input. In order to measure high current DC you'll need a shunt of known resistance and unaffected by temperature. Measure the voltage drop across the shunt and the ohm's law will give you the current.
DC clamp on adaptor
is available for fluke meters, probably others, mine is an 80i-410, its at least 10 years old and wasn't cheap then, unless you are checking starter draw or alternator output, just insert your ammeter inline, my fluke will go to 10 amps and a little more before blowing the fuse. ;D These are the current models.I also recommend Fluke meters, expensive but the last meter you will buy, unless it falls overboard
Tim
is available for fluke meters, probably others, mine is an 80i-410, its at least 10 years old and wasn't cheap then, unless you are checking starter draw or alternator output, just insert your ammeter inline, my fluke will go to 10 amps and a little more before blowing the fuse. ;D These are the current models.I also recommend Fluke meters, expensive but the last meter you will buy, unless it falls overboard
Tim
DC clamp on adaptor
is available for fluke meters, probably others, mine is an 80i-410, its at least 10 years old and wasn't cheap then, unless you are checking starter draw or alternator output, just insert your ammeter inline, my fluke will go to 10 amps and a little more before blowing the fuse. ;D These are the current models.I also recommend Fluke meters, expensive but the last meter you will buy, unless it falls overboard Tim
is available for fluke meters, probably others, mine is an 80i-410, its at least 10 years old and wasn't cheap then, unless you are checking starter draw or alternator output, just insert your ammeter inline, my fluke will go to 10 amps and a little more before blowing the fuse. ;D These are the current models.I also recommend Fluke meters, expensive but the last meter you will buy, unless it falls overboard
TimDC clamp on
Just to respond to Alex from Toronto. DC clamp on meters came on the market a few years ago. You are right that there use to be only AC clamp on meters that go by AC induction but with electronics they now have "Hall effect" sensors that sense the magnetic field created by the current in the wire you are trying to measure. This works for both AC and DC. The trick is to make sure you zero the ambient magnetic field out by pressing the zero button before measuring DC amps. My impression is that most clamp ons are not that accurate (3%?) and that worrying about true RMS versus average may be a bit overdoing it usless you are into measuring a lot of distorted waveforms. Main thing is that a clamp on allows you to figure out if there is any amps flowing without having to break the connection which really help in trouble shooting. Oliver.
Just to respond to Alex from Toronto. DC clamp on meters came on the market a few years ago. You are right that there use to be only AC clamp on meters that go by AC induction but with electronics they now have "Hall effect" sensors that sense the magnetic field created by the current in the wire you are trying to measure. This works for both AC and DC. The trick is to make sure you zero the ambient magnetic field out by pressing the zero button before measuring DC amps. My impression is that most clamp ons are not that accurate (3%?) and that worrying about true RMS versus average may be a bit overdoing it usless you are into measuring a lot of distorted waveforms. Main thing is that a clamp on allows you to figure out if there is any amps flowing without having to break the connection which really help in trouble shooting. Oliver.
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