We purchased a 25 oday one week ago and it needs a little clean up. We have used compound on the deck and now plan to use tequa on the teak, wax and recaulk. We are not sure which is the next step. Seems to me the caulk would adhere better if done before oiling the teak and waxing the deck. Also, are all caulks created equal or do i need to spend a fortune at west marine. I would rather not spend the fortune if i can get the same result from Lowes. By the way, this is a 1978, purchased from the original owner, they even gave us the original sales brochure covering oday 20 through 25. We will scan and post it all as soon as posible.
recaulking around brightwork
- Thread starter bill R
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wher are you caulking depends on what to use
if you are caulking the ports, a clear marine (uv resistant) silicone can be used. If you are recaulking the teak handrail go with Boat Life "Lifecaulk" this is a polysulfate and not a silicone. It will help keep water out a bit more. If you are re-bedding hardware (blocks, winches,lifeline stanctions, etc.) re-drill the holes a bit larger, mix up some West-epoxy, fill holes, let cure, sand, redrill and then be hardware with silicone. MOst of these caluks (except West system epoxy) can be purchased at a local Wal-Mart and will be MUCH cheaper than a marine store. 3M products can be purchased at most large stores that have a sporting goods section.
if you are caulking the ports, a clear marine (uv resistant) silicone can be used. If you are recaulking the teak handrail go with Boat Life "Lifecaulk" this is a polysulfate and not a silicone. It will help keep water out a bit more. If you are re-bedding hardware (blocks, winches,lifeline stanctions, etc.) re-drill the holes a bit larger, mix up some West-epoxy, fill holes, let cure, sand, redrill and then be hardware with silicone. MOst of these caluks (except West system epoxy) can be purchased at a local Wal-Mart and will be MUCH cheaper than a marine store. 3M products can be purchased at most large stores that have a sporting goods section.
Bill, you set in caulk not caulk around...
Bill, the only good way to rebed hardware, bright work etc. is to remove the item, clean the caulking surfaces then rebed them. I will not use silicone for any application on a boat. Silicone has a tendance to have small leaks on fitting that might be torqued or bumped hard. These leaks are hard to find and they do major damage to core materials in the deck. I use the 3M product, I think it is called uv4000. This product has great properties for both deck and below the waterline. Buy some 3M caulking remover. It comes in handy for those messy rebeds and to get the stuff off your hands and tools. I always have a roll of paper towels handy. Remember that you want to bed so that the outside( side with water threat) is sealed. You don't need caulking on the inside of the boat part of the fitting. r.w.landau
Bill, the only good way to rebed hardware, bright work etc. is to remove the item, clean the caulking surfaces then rebed them. I will not use silicone for any application on a boat. Silicone has a tendance to have small leaks on fitting that might be torqued or bumped hard. These leaks are hard to find and they do major damage to core materials in the deck. I use the 3M product, I think it is called uv4000. This product has great properties for both deck and below the waterline. Buy some 3M caulking remover. It comes in handy for those messy rebeds and to get the stuff off your hands and tools. I always have a roll of paper towels handy. Remember that you want to bed so that the outside( side with water threat) is sealed. You don't need caulking on the inside of the boat part of the fitting. r.w.landau
types of caulking
Good Old Boat Magazine, issue 39, Nov./Dec. 2004 has an excellent article on types and uses of differant caulking. Happy sailing TDC
Good Old Boat Magazine, issue 39, Nov./Dec. 2004 has an excellent article on types and uses of differant caulking. Happy sailing TDC
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