Rebuilt my head

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Mar 22, 2004
733
Hunter 30 Vero Beach
Ok, Now that I have rebuilt my head, I still have a leak where the line from the bottom on the holding tank meets the pipe coming out of the bottom of the tank.
The rebuilding of the head was really easy, and is like having a new head. The leak has been there for a while, and I thought that I could tackle the problem when rebuilding the head. The tube coming out of the bottom of the holding tank appears to be a PVC pipe glassed into the tank. when I put the hose on it, it slides on fairly easy. There are no ribs on the end of the pipe like most fittings have, which makes it difficult to seal. I asked the question here a few months back and got numerous responses. One of the responses was to seal up the fitting with wax from a toilet bowl wax seal. It didn't work, so don't try it. All it did was make a mess to clean up before sealing it another way. By the way, How does one remove the nasty wax? I'm sure that nothing will stick to it, so sealing it with some type of sealant will be next to impossible. I've tried heating the hose to get the clamps to tighten down more, but that didn't work. The hose that I'm using is Sealand Odorsafe sanitation hose. Should I try a different hose? It's really beginning to P!$$ me off. :evil:

Dave
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Boil the hose until it feels very soft and then clamp it. The hose will be very pliable but not for more than 10 or 20 seconds. You need to clamp it while it is that soft. It would help if there were barbs. The only other thing I can think of is that the glassed in pipe is somehow leaking. Or the pipe is too small of an OD for the hose ID. I ran into this once a few years back when WM was selling cheap fittings that were supposed to be 1 1/2" and they were 1 3/8"
 
Dec 2, 1997
9,011
- - LIttle Rock
Why heat a hose that already goes on TOO easily??

The only reason to heat a hose is to make it pliable enough to stretch onto a hose barb that's a tight fit...heating won't make a loose hose shrink to fit a too-small fitting when it cools off.

Your description sounds like it may be a SeaLand component fitting...does it thread into the tank, then the hose connector is PVC cemented into the threaded piece?

Are you using only one clamp? All connections in sanitation systems should be double clamped, with screws 180 apart. So if you're only using one, a second one MIGHT solve your problem.

If it doesn't, I suspect Tim may be right that the fitting is prob'ly 1 3/8". You MIGHT try wrapping it in enough duct tape (what would ever do without that stuff????) to increase the radius...or something else if you don't like duct tape. If that doesn't work, the only solution I can think of is to replace the fitting.
 
Mar 22, 2004
733
Hunter 30 Vero Beach
Thanks Peggy, The PVC Pipe is glassed onto the tank from Hunter. I'm assuming that's the way they did it back in 1983. I was thinking of wrapping a turn or two of rescue tape around it but didn't think that was the best way to go. I think that's my next move. As for the hose clamps, Yes I have two on it. I do not have the screws 180 degrees apart though. they're only about 45 degrees apart due to the tight space that they're in. I'll be working on it tomorrow, so I'll post what I do if it works.

Dave
 
Apr 4, 2010
19
Ranger 28 Tall Rig Maurepaus
When I saw the title, I was wondering "mental issues?" LOL, then I thought engine heads... but I have to get my brain a little more "nautical" and realize what he is talking about. Good luck with that leak!
 
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