*butt I'm new to boating. Just bought 82 Catalina 27 from original owner. Original Wilcox-Crittenton Head-Mate has never been rebuilt. Seems to work pretty well, but a couple of times the bowl appears to have back-filled from the holding tank (possibly just while sailing and we were heeled over), even tho I don't believe the holding tank was full. Re-build kit is $50-$60, but right now I can get brand-new one delivered for $130 from Overton's. I HEAR that it only takes 20 minutes to re-build one and that its probably not TOO messy. I'm guessing replacing the old one with what appears to be an exact replacement is even quicker/easier/cleaner. Question: Since its 22 years old, would you just replace for the $70-$80 difference? Also, recommendations on a lower cost holding tank monitoring system?
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Pretty simple
I didn't have any problem, there is one plastic ring that has to slide on to a piece that seems like it won't fit, but it does. It would be my luck if I bought a new one that some mounting screws or other little detail got changed.....
I didn't have any problem, there is one plastic ring that has to slide on to a piece that seems like it won't fit, but it does. It would be my luck if I bought a new one that some mounting screws or other little detail got changed.....
Buy New
Ted, The WC (no pun!) Head Mate hasn't changed in 20 + years. Our Head Mate head needed a rebuild. I rebuilt it for $90 in 1999. Then it needed it again last year, so I bought a replacement pump assembly with joker valves, etc for $119. Given your price of $130, it's easier to swap 'em out brand new. 20 minutes is WRONG. You have to remove the head from the compartment to work on it. Buy it new, save the old pump for parts, get limited parts from WC and use as a backup. My experience is the joker valve and other rubber was good, the thing that goes is the pump seal of th handle against the wall of the pump - keep using vinegar, head lube, fresh water, but you still have to take the pump apart to replace the pump seal. Doesn't hurt to take it apart and learn how it works - so many people don't. Stu
Ted, The WC (no pun!) Head Mate hasn't changed in 20 + years. Our Head Mate head needed a rebuild. I rebuilt it for $90 in 1999. Then it needed it again last year, so I bought a replacement pump assembly with joker valves, etc for $119. Given your price of $130, it's easier to swap 'em out brand new. 20 minutes is WRONG. You have to remove the head from the compartment to work on it. Buy it new, save the old pump for parts, get limited parts from WC and use as a backup. My experience is the joker valve and other rubber was good, the thing that goes is the pump seal of th handle against the wall of the pump - keep using vinegar, head lube, fresh water, but you still have to take the pump apart to replace the pump seal. Doesn't hurt to take it apart and learn how it works - so many people don't. Stu
Rebuild/replace may not solve your problem
You've said the toilet works just fine...so all it prob'ly needs is lubrication and a new joker valve. There are two possible sources for the water that's filling up your bowl: 1. If it's dirty, it's waste from the tank or waste left sitting in the line between the toilet and the tank...waste from the tank can run back toward the bowl when you're heeled over far enough to allow tank contents to spill into the head discharge hose...failing to flush long enough in the dry mode to move bowl contents all the way to the tank will leave it sitting in the hose to run back toward the toilet any time. A new joker valve in the head discharge fitting will slow it down--and will even keep it out of the bowl temporarily...but the real cures are a) flush longer in the dry mode, and b) an arch in the line from the toilet to the tank that's high enough to keep tank contents from getting over it. 2. If it's clean, it's sea water via the head intake. You can find out for sure by keeping the intake seacock closed except when actually flushing the toilet. If it is sea water, it means either the wet/dry valve in the toilet has failed or you're not being careful to leave the lever/knob in the dry position. If the valve has failed, a new toilet makes more sense than repair...the replacement valve is not in any rebuild kit. Whether it has or not, you also need a vented loop in the head intake--which does NOT go between the thru-hull and the pump, but must go between the pump and the bowl, and should be at least 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. You might want to check out the link below...I think you'll find it useful in trouble-shooting, curing, and especially preventing problems with your sanitation system.
You've said the toilet works just fine...so all it prob'ly needs is lubrication and a new joker valve. There are two possible sources for the water that's filling up your bowl: 1. If it's dirty, it's waste from the tank or waste left sitting in the line between the toilet and the tank...waste from the tank can run back toward the bowl when you're heeled over far enough to allow tank contents to spill into the head discharge hose...failing to flush long enough in the dry mode to move bowl contents all the way to the tank will leave it sitting in the hose to run back toward the toilet any time. A new joker valve in the head discharge fitting will slow it down--and will even keep it out of the bowl temporarily...but the real cures are a) flush longer in the dry mode, and b) an arch in the line from the toilet to the tank that's high enough to keep tank contents from getting over it. 2. If it's clean, it's sea water via the head intake. You can find out for sure by keeping the intake seacock closed except when actually flushing the toilet. If it is sea water, it means either the wet/dry valve in the toilet has failed or you're not being careful to leave the lever/knob in the dry position. If the valve has failed, a new toilet makes more sense than repair...the replacement valve is not in any rebuild kit. Whether it has or not, you also need a vented loop in the head intake--which does NOT go between the thru-hull and the pump, but must go between the pump and the bowl, and should be at least 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. You might want to check out the link below...I think you'll find it useful in trouble-shooting, curing, and especially preventing problems with your sanitation system.
pheew
I prefer a clean, new whistle than the dangers of an aromatic event while performing repairs. While 22 year-old residue should long have turned to skin-mask quality mud... what about the stuff that's only 6 years old? Replace, Replace, Replace! Your wife will snuggle close when you tell her you tell her you kept your hands clean.
I prefer a clean, new whistle than the dangers of an aromatic event while performing repairs. While 22 year-old residue should long have turned to skin-mask quality mud... what about the stuff that's only 6 years old? Replace, Replace, Replace! Your wife will snuggle close when you tell her you tell her you kept your hands clean.
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