Hey all who have been following the refit of Selah. I'm sorry for the delay in my posting the "endoscopy" of my bilge area and the pictures that I promised you Crazy Dave. No excuses except I took a fall and injured my right shoulder which is still causing some painful numbness. The doctors are limiting my use of it for another week. Plans are to get the pictures posted soon so I can get back moving on the refit. Finally, with the help of my son and another friend, I have the new bow stay and shrouds tuned on my other sailboat. It is back at the marina and plan to take it out in the next couple days for the first time since it fell victim to a tornado passing by the marina last October.
Regarding Selah, I have teak toerails for Selah. When I removed them last year to clean, varnish, and rebedded them, I didn't countersink prior to remounting; I took them back off recently so that I could countersink about a 16th of an inch and put marine grade bed-it-tape in place. My thought or question is should I run a thin layer under the teak where it contacts the deck or just be concerned where they are bolted through. My first effort with just butyl around the bolts and no countersink caused a gap of about an eighth inch in between the deck and the botyom of the toerails. I'm wondering about warping the teak. With the countersink, I think the toerails will be flush against the deck thereby preventing warpage. Would appreciate your thoughts. (Also, while I have them off, I decided to lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper, followed with another coat of varnish following Andy's method from YouTube Boatworks.) Thanks everyone
Regarding Selah, I have teak toerails for Selah. When I removed them last year to clean, varnish, and rebedded them, I didn't countersink prior to remounting; I took them back off recently so that I could countersink about a 16th of an inch and put marine grade bed-it-tape in place. My thought or question is should I run a thin layer under the teak where it contacts the deck or just be concerned where they are bolted through. My first effort with just butyl around the bolts and no countersink caused a gap of about an eighth inch in between the deck and the botyom of the toerails. I'm wondering about warping the teak. With the countersink, I think the toerails will be flush against the deck thereby preventing warpage. Would appreciate your thoughts. (Also, while I have them off, I decided to lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper, followed with another coat of varnish following Andy's method from YouTube Boatworks.) Thanks everyone