Hello all-- I'm close to completing the refinishing of the teak trim on my Cat 27, but I'm not sure about rebedding some of the pieces. Some of the decorative trim is held in by screws, as it serves no structural purpose. Naturally, I want to keep water out of these areas, but here's the question: when a piece of teak trim, say 18 inches long, by 3 inches high, is held in by four screws, should I seal around just the screw holes, or place the entire piece in a bed of sealant? Keeping water out from behind the whole piece of trim seems like a good idea, but is it realistic? Should I just place beads of sealant around the screw holes, knowing that water will get behind the rest of the piece, but will be free to drain out? When I removed the trim pieces, I discovered they were previously bedded in generous amounts of sealant, but it was far from complete, and clearly allowed water in behind the pieces. I've been thinking about this for a couple days as I anticipate putting the trim back on the boat, but I'm still not sure what to do. Opinions, please! Thanks, Randy
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Gord May
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Randy
It's exterior
It's exterior trim, so it's exposed to the elements full time. Attempting to fully seal the underside of the trim seems almost futile, and may even invite trapped moisture to hang around longer than it should. Might it be better to simply seal around the screw holes, knowing that the back of the trim will get wet, but will also drain/dry out better? Randy
It's exterior trim, so it's exposed to the elements full time. Attempting to fully seal the underside of the trim seems almost futile, and may even invite trapped moisture to hang around longer than it should. Might it be better to simply seal around the screw holes, knowing that the back of the trim will get wet, but will also drain/dry out better? Randy
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Gord May
The Screw Holes
must be perfectly sealed. Suggest you might overdrill the existing screw holes, fill /w epoxy, then re-drill screw pilot holes to suit. Caulking alone is an insufficient sealer for the raw edges of the fibreglass. I'd caulk at least the upper edge of the teak trim, as well as around the screws; but you make a good point - so ... Regards, Gord
must be perfectly sealed. Suggest you might overdrill the existing screw holes, fill /w epoxy, then re-drill screw pilot holes to suit. Caulking alone is an insufficient sealer for the raw edges of the fibreglass. I'd caulk at least the upper edge of the teak trim, as well as around the screws; but you make a good point - so ... Regards, Gord
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Randy
Caulking edges
I was thinking the same thing--sealing the screw holes as well as the upper edges to prevent water entry, but leaving the lower edges alone so water/moisture may drain. (Not sure that I'll go to the extent of overdrilling and filling with epoxy, then redrilling.) Randy
I was thinking the same thing--sealing the screw holes as well as the upper edges to prevent water entry, but leaving the lower edges alone so water/moisture may drain. (Not sure that I'll go to the extent of overdrilling and filling with epoxy, then redrilling.) Randy
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Gord May
You MUST Seal Holes in FRG
Expecting a caulking material to exclude moisture from the screw holes is realy asking for long-term trouble. You should NEVER leave raw fibreglass edges, of any size, in any application! Sorry for "shouting", but I think it's important. If not caulking the teak, I'd probably seal the back-side /w epoxy (just my choice). A final option would be to permanently expoxy the teak trim to the FRG w/out screws (already got holes in the wood ...oh well). Gord
Expecting a caulking material to exclude moisture from the screw holes is realy asking for long-term trouble. You should NEVER leave raw fibreglass edges, of any size, in any application! Sorry for "shouting", but I think it's important. If not caulking the teak, I'd probably seal the back-side /w epoxy (just my choice). A final option would be to permanently expoxy the teak trim to the FRG w/out screws (already got holes in the wood ...oh well). Gord
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Randy
Cored vs. non-cored
I always understood the importance of not exposing raw edges of cored fiberglass to moisture, but is uncored fiberglass as critical? The teak trim I am rebedding is all mounted in uncored sections, and was factory installed nearly 20 years ago with just sealant. Randy
I always understood the importance of not exposing raw edges of cored fiberglass to moisture, but is uncored fiberglass as critical? The teak trim I am rebedding is all mounted in uncored sections, and was factory installed nearly 20 years ago with just sealant. Randy
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Glenn Bollin
Don't Get Too Crazy
Randy, You will probably refinish your exterior teak every 3 years(minimum even with touchups) and should rebed in a flexible WP sealer you can remove when you need to. I've used butyl window/door caulk with good results. Silicone caulks stain the teak black. Lay down a bed, place trim and set screws but don't tighten down until after it firms up. Glenn
Randy, You will probably refinish your exterior teak every 3 years(minimum even with touchups) and should rebed in a flexible WP sealer you can remove when you need to. I've used butyl window/door caulk with good results. Silicone caulks stain the teak black. Lay down a bed, place trim and set screws but don't tighten down until after it firms up. Glenn
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Gord May
Cored vs Laminated FRG
RANDY: Yes "cored" structures are much more susceptible to water-intrusion dammage than is "uncored" FRG. However: Moisture can get into (between)the laminations of apparently solid FRG, and cause severe dammage. So: It's just as important to exclude water/moisture from "solid" glass as with "cored" glass - it's just much easier (simpler) to accomplish. Regards, Gord "If you don't have the time (money) to do it right the first time; where will you get the time (money) to fix it later?"
RANDY: Yes "cored" structures are much more susceptible to water-intrusion dammage than is "uncored" FRG. However: Moisture can get into (between)the laminations of apparently solid FRG, and cause severe dammage. So: It's just as important to exclude water/moisture from "solid" glass as with "cored" glass - it's just much easier (simpler) to accomplish. Regards, Gord "If you don't have the time (money) to do it right the first time; where will you get the time (money) to fix it later?"
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Gord May
Cored vs Laminated FRG
RANDY: Yes "cored" structures are much more susceptible to water-intrusion dammage than is "uncored" FRG. However: Moisture can get into (between)the laminations of apparently solid FRG, and cause severe dammage. So: It's just as important to exclude water/moisture from "solid" glass as with "cored" glass - it's just much easier (simpler) to accomplish. Regards, Gord "If you don't have the time (money) to do it right the first time; where will you get the time (money) to fix it later?"
RANDY: Yes "cored" structures are much more susceptible to water-intrusion dammage than is "uncored" FRG. However: Moisture can get into (between)the laminations of apparently solid FRG, and cause severe dammage. So: It's just as important to exclude water/moisture from "solid" glass as with "cored" glass - it's just much easier (simpler) to accomplish. Regards, Gord "If you don't have the time (money) to do it right the first time; where will you get the time (money) to fix it later?"
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Augie Byllott
To fill or not to fill, that is the question
Eventually, water wicking along any exposed glass fibers will cause a headache that will be far more difficult to cure than to have prevented. I would spend the time necessary to place an epoxy plug where a screw or bolt hole is going to be. Just my 2¢ worth.
Eventually, water wicking along any exposed glass fibers will cause a headache that will be far more difficult to cure than to have prevented. I would spend the time necessary to place an epoxy plug where a screw or bolt hole is going to be. Just my 2¢ worth.
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