Rebedding plexi/lexan/polycarbonate fixed windows

[tkanzler]

I need to fix some leaking fixed ports on my H340, which are similar to the 310 and presumably other models made on or around 1998. The only info I was able to find in the archives is a couple of years old, and there is some disagreement at that. I'm specifically looking for a procedure to remove, clean, and re-bed the 'windshield' and the two forward side fixed ports (long, skinny smoked ones).The archived discussion touches on Dow Corning OS-2 silicone cleaner and surface prep, then either DC 739 plastic adhesive, or 795 silicone building adhesive. Someone mentions that Hunter has switched from 795 to 739. Does anyone know what's in current use?I've tried to reach Hunter for a number of months now, and they don't answer emails, nor do they answer the phone - warranty, service, parts dept. was being answered by a message machine (with nobody calling me back) and the last couple of times I tried the machine didn't even pick up.All I want to know is what is the best procedure to remove and clean up the windows, and what to use to re-bed them. Can anyone help with this?

 

[Capt'n Bob]

Lexan Sealant Update

TK,The info you read in the archives is correct. The only sealant to use is the Dow Corning 739.As stated in my brief you must use the Dow Corning OS2 cleaning and prep spray.The use of OS2 is not an option - it is a must. If you have any questions, please postRD Pensacola, FL

 

[tkanzler]

Thanks for that info

It's getting late in the season, and there isn't much sailing time left around here (Lake Ontario). I'll get my ducks lined up and take this project on in the spring, while the shrink-wrap is still on. Don't want to waste what little precious time on the water is still left.The best procedure I've been able to find (on these boards) is to remove the plastic, clean it up, including with OS2, rebed with 739 after masking exposed areas, then possibly adding a finishing pass on the inside before taking off the masking tape. Thanks for the input.

 

[Capt'n Bob]

Re-bed is a bad word

KT,One does not re-bed the the sky-lite.The re-edge concept with DC739 is to lay a bead around the edge of the blank.Just as one envisions a large rubber band stretched around the edge of blank - before the blank is set in the hatch cavity.During the last install of my four skylites (Hunter Legend 35) I used some thin double sided tape to hold the blanks in position. This tape will also stop the sealant from flowing out of the ecge cavity and down into flat area of the cavity. Using OS2 will allow the DC sealant to adhere to the side of the blank and to the wall of cavity and form the body of the sealer (rubber) band. Because of the wind range of heat and cold the blank will experience, it needs freedom to expand and contract. Having a bed of sealant on the bottom of the blank will hold it in place and you will have to re-edge the blank shortly because of the lack of expansion freedom.If you do not anchor the blank to the cavity with the tape you will find that as you apply the sealant to the opening between the blank and the wall of the cavity with the caulkin gun (read: plastic nozzle) that you will push the blank over and across the cavity. Tried at one time to put in spacers to stop this "push". But the real problem is to keep the sealant in the crack and not allow it to flow down and in to the bottom of the cavity.This procedure and concept is an imporant part of the re-edge.Seal on,RD

 

[Steve Dion]

Contact Hunter for their opinion on the sealant!

I suggest that you contact Hunter for the correct sealant to use for this job. Removing and cleaning up the old stuff is the worst part. Be sure to mask everything very well.Once you get everything reseated and cleaned up you just remove the tape and let everything cure. I believe that it takes a couple of days, but will skin over in a few hours.

 

[Alan]

After the install and sealant are used you can achieve a very nice 'factory' finish with your index finger and a liberal amount of liquid hand soap. You can produce a very nice bevel in the edging leaving a continuous clean finish and no mess on your skin by liberal(there's that 'dirty' word) use of the hand soap.BTW, Hunter did originally use Dow 739 but later switched to 795. It is available in both black and white and costs about $8.00 a tube. Also check the expiration date before you start, this stuff has a 'shelf life' of about 18 months.

 

[Steve Dion]

More colors and cheaper prices too!

Actually there are several other colors and you can save some money by shopping around. We got some last year for about $5/tube in Sacramento CA. Here is a place on the East Coast.I think that the Charcole was a good match for the fixed ports.

 

[George]

Contacting Hunter

I've never had a problem getting a response from Hunter. This has worked for me:Don MartinHunter Marine Customer Servicecustomerservice@huntermarine.comFor parts contact Mike Thomas@mthomas@huntermarine.com 800-771-5556 ext. 3615It helps to provide your hull number.