I've been under the assumption that I need to unstep the mast on our H31 to address a "moisture reading" at the base of the mast. Also, the strbd chainplate is leaking slightly. Is it necessary to unstep the mast to adress these issues or is it possible to seal the leaks otherwise? Thanks.
Rebedding mast step and chainplates
- Thread starter McZube
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The H31 is a deck stepped mast correct? Does this model not use a back stay as well? Were the moisture readings taken by you?
These boats have a split backstay and a deck stepped mast.
I don't think you need to remove the mast for a moisture reading. If there is moisture in that area it is larger than the step.
I also do not think you need to remove the stick to rebed the chain plate. You can just use a halyard to hold the mast in place if you are worried.
Be sure to inspect the angle iron that is attached to the chain plate rod.
I don't think you need to remove the mast for a moisture reading. If there is moisture in that area it is larger than the step.
I also do not think you need to remove the stick to rebed the chain plate. You can just use a halyard to hold the mast in place if you are worried.
Be sure to inspect the angle iron that is attached to the chain plate rod.
Yes, deck stepped. It has a split backstay, which would be even better than a single backstay for holding the mast in place while rebedding chainplates. The moisture reading was taken by the surveyor just before we bought the boat a year ago.
Chainplate-caulking word to the wise.
DO NOT rebed the chainplates with anything but 5200.
I am currently working on a Sandy-damaged Raider 33 and whilst repairing the deck where stanchions ripped out discovered rotten plywood core all the way up the deck. This is now a major repair to an old boat rather than a simple insurance job to a damaged section. The reason is because the chainplates were 'caulked' with silicone, which does not keep water out over the long run.
I've got 40 years in this buiness and have seen more water intrusion due to silicone than to any other boatbuilding process. Silicone is not reliable for sealing out water, period. However, 5200 is made for this job (metal to wood, metal to fiberglass, fiberglass to wood). Accept no substitutes.
BTW-- read MaineSail's excellent article on the application of the moisture meter before taking anything else as gospel!
DO NOT rebed the chainplates with anything but 5200.
I am currently working on a Sandy-damaged Raider 33 and whilst repairing the deck where stanchions ripped out discovered rotten plywood core all the way up the deck. This is now a major repair to an old boat rather than a simple insurance job to a damaged section. The reason is because the chainplates were 'caulked' with silicone, which does not keep water out over the long run.
I've got 40 years in this buiness and have seen more water intrusion due to silicone than to any other boatbuilding process. Silicone is not reliable for sealing out water, period. However, 5200 is made for this job (metal to wood, metal to fiberglass, fiberglass to wood). Accept no substitutes.
BTW-- read MaineSail's excellent article on the application of the moisture meter before taking anything else as gospel!
WADR, I couldn't disagree more. 5200 is Satan';s Glue and is an adhesive, while "sometimes" masquerading as a sealant.
Butyl tape is a fine material for sealing chainplates.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430
I have to agree 5200 is a poor choice and I also have 40 years building and repairing boats. I am not a huge fan of butyl but chainplates is one area I think it is the right choice. Silicone is a great sealant when used in the right places but this is not the right place. The only thing 5200 is good for is gluing things together it has lousy UV and weather resistance. Use a silicone hybrid like 3M 4000 or boatlife life seal for the mast step. Or you could use a Polysulfide for both but I think the butyl will be best for the chainplates.
Capt. Wayne Canning, AMS
www.projectboatzen.com
Capt. Wayne Canning, AMS
www.projectboatzen.com
Silicone has been "banned" from our boat! Except for one and ONLY one place: Our Beckson portlights 'cuz Beckson says to use it! Really. I used to use it all over, but after reading lots of material and Maine Sail's excellent contributions, I find it useless, and impossible to remove.
Butyl tape, the nice stuff offered by Maine Sail, is great for rebedding everything that needs to be bedded. I used it for my saloon hatch recently, two of six chainplates and stanchions galore.
5200 is great for hull to deck joints, and one other thing that I think Rich H brought up, but that's about all.
Except for one and ONLY one place: Our Beckson portlights 'cuz Beckson says to use it! Really. I used to use it all over, but after reading lots of material and Maine Sail's excellent contributions, I find it useless, and impossible to remove.Butyl tape, the nice stuff offered by Maine Sail, is great for rebedding everything that needs to be bedded. I used it for my saloon hatch recently, two of six chainplates and stanchions galore.
5200 is great for hull to deck joints, and one other thing that I think Rich H brought up, but that's about all.
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