Rebedding Chainplates & Painting Suggestions

Jan 22, 2008
403
Catalina 380 16 Rochester NY
Hello all.

Biting the bullet this year. I've began stripping all the equipment off deck so that I can repaint it.

Quite the project and it's become a rabbit hole! I even removed the Edson steering pedestal! (this is a 1977 C-30...so she's old!!!!)

First question:
I removed the main shroud chainplates. Well the port one as it was easy to get out. The starboard one over the hanging closet won't come out unless I take apart the closet...no way. I just unscrewed the top storage lockers and was able to hammer the chainplate down out of the way.

Happily, they both look great. No corrosion, no rust, no structural deterioration at all. (i'm not an x-ray machine, but they look good)

I intend to drill out, epoxy and redrill all of the needed holes on deck. For handrails, stanchions, cleats, winches etc.
The chainplate seems like a bit of a challenge. As it's a long rectangle hole. I was going to drill a series of 1/2 to 3/4 holes, fill with epoxy and then drill with appropriate size bit and then file them into one longer hole for chainplate.

Is there a method others have used?

Second question.

I have all the tools to spray paint the deck once I've redone all the holes, sanded, filled cracks/crevices etc.
I've never used a spray gun before, but I think the finish would be better than roll and tip.

As a DYIer, is it worth it to attempt this with spray? I would practice at home on hatches before moving on to deck.
The upside is that except for the bulkheads in cockpit, side walls for ports and 'trim' surrounding nonskid, most of the deck will be painted with a nonskid paint

Thanks!
Chris
 
Nov 21, 2012
598
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
i redid my chainplates last spring. Fixed some minor issues by filling the holes with epoxy and drilling them out. Since the holes were rectangular I used an adapter by Reciprotools that attaches a file to the end of a Sawzall. Worked like a champ. I was really grateful not to do all that filing by hand.
 

n6iap

.
Dec 21, 2019
1
Catalina 30 Standard 0603 Gulfport, FL
I too am in the Tampa Bay Area and have a 1977 Catalina 30 that I'm trying to restore to orginal beauty. I'd be instrested in any success you have. All I've accomplished so far is building a 12v curcuit that is shelded from the heat of the Yanmar. Also changed the wiring to be not all 16 AWG red wires.
 
Jan 22, 2008
403
Catalina 380 16 Rochester NY
i redid my chainplates last spring. Fixed some minor issues by filling the holes with epoxy and drilling them out. Since the holes were rectangular I used an adapter by Reciprotools that attaches a file to the end of a Sawzall. Worked like a champ. I was really grateful not to do all that filing by hand.
THAT is exactly the kind of tool I'm looking for! So, a sequence of drilled holes through epoxy and then 'squared off' with the rat file.

Absolute simplicity...if it works!!!!

Thank you
 
Jan 22, 2008
403
Catalina 380 16 Rochester NY
So I did a test run on the forward anchor hatch.

I only have a small Porter Cable compressor, so there is no way I could do anything larger than that.

Bought the cheap spray guns through E-Bay...doesn't matter the brand, they're no name, came with 3 different size guns

Sprayed the primer on after a meticulous sanding and wipe down. I used the EZ Pettit White Primer. No issues

Then 2 coats of Interlux Brightsides White. The first coat laid down perfect, very little sanding needed.
Next day did the 2nd coat in the morning, again no issues.

Now, that's not saying much since the only portion that will be visible is about a half an inch all around.

About 8 hours after the 2nd coat, I was able to tape off the 'good' stuff and then I used Kiwigrip for the texture.

I bought gray, but honestly it's not that gray and I am so happy with that.

It's the perfect contrast.
 

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Jan 22, 2008
403
Catalina 380 16 Rochester NY
I too am in the Tampa Bay Area and have a 1977 Catalina 30 that I'm trying to restore to orginal beauty. I'd be instrested in any success you have. All I've accomplished so far is building a 12v curcuit that is shelded from the heat of the Yanmar. Also changed the wiring to be not all 16 AWG red wires.
I spent so much time in the beginning redoing the boat. I rewired the whole boat with no prior experience. I relied HEAVILY on this site and Stu Jackson. If not for his help, advice, pictures, I would still be lost in the woods.

I have plenty of pictures, if you need anything and I have it, I can forward to you.
team118 @ rochester. rr . com

Good luck
Chris
 
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Nov 21, 2012
598
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
It worked, but you can easily overload the adapter and break it. Not surprising given the side load. Don't overdo it. And have a spare.

THAT is exactly the kind of tool I'm looking for! So, a sequence of drilled holes through epoxy and then 'squared off' with the rat file.

Absolute simplicity...if it works!!!!

Thank you
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
So I did a test run on the forward anchor hatch.

I only have a small Porter Cable compressor, so there is no way I could do anything larger than that.

Bought the cheap spray guns through E-Bay...doesn't matter the brand, they're no name, came with 3 different size guns

Sprayed the primer on after a meticulous sanding and wipe down. I used the EZ Pettit White Primer. No issues

Then 2 coats of Interlux Brightsides White. The first coat laid down perfect, very little sanding needed.
Next day did the 2nd coat in the morning, again no issues.

Now, that's not saying much since the only portion that will be visible is about a half an inch all around.

About 8 hours after the 2nd coat, I was able to tape off the 'good' stuff and then I used Kiwigrip for the texture.

I bought gray, but honestly it's not that gray and I am so happy with that.

It's the perfect contrast.
The prep is 98% so don't waste all that hard work on a single part paint. Interlux Perfection is a two part paint and is geared to DIY's. It holds up amazingly well compared to single part paints.
 
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Jan 22, 2008
403
Catalina 380 16 Rochester NY
Yeah, I was nervous about which paint to choose. Was between the single or two part. Seemed to be 50/50 when I searched, but it did say the 2 part was better long term. I just wasn't sure if I could mix properly and spray correctly. I thought it required a higher level of expertise.

Already bought the paint....lol, so we'll see! It'll have to be better than it is now after 40+ years.

Thank you for looking in on me!!!!!
Chris