Rebedding chain plates on H-27

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jfgy

.
Jun 8, 2004
33
Sabre 30 mk III Gainesville, FL
Hi folks. A small leak has developed in the port chain plate and it clearly is time to rebed both. The only problem is that it is not obvious how to do it. The deck plate flange is welded to the chain plate so it cannot be lifted for rebedding. The lower end of the chain plate apparently is attached in an inaccessible place behind the setee.
I'd appreciate any advice.
Thanks!
Jess 1989 H-27
 

jfgy

.
Jun 8, 2004
33
Sabre 30 mk III Gainesville, FL
Update:
I discussed the problem with my very capable rigger friend Julian Crisp (SparmanUSA.com) who agreed to do the job. We supported the mast with the halyards to allow the shrouds to be uncoupled from the chainplate (one side at a time). The chainplate screws at the deck flange were unscrewed (the broken one required drilling and retapping). He found that the lower end of the chainplates is attached behind the settee backrest cushion, and that the cushion could be removed via several retaining screws. That allowed access to the screws that attached the chainplate to the structural member; those were unscrewed, which allowed the chainplate to be freed up. We rebedded with 3M 5200 and reattached at deck level and below. Although the starboard side was not leaking, we rebedded that as well.
As with most project, we learned a lot doing this project. Nice to have it completed.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Jess - Didn't see your post until today, otherwise I would have told you about the chainplate access behind the cushions! It's not a tough job as long as you have a big screwdriver. Why they didn't use a hex head bolt I have no idea, but it would have been nice!

Keep an eye on the chainplates and the 5200 as it doesn't stretch very well, and may rip or seperate from the stainless if you get much flexing. Generally it's not recommended for jobs like this for those reasons. The ideal sealent is Butyl tape as it will stretch and move with the chainplates as they move (and they always will), without failing or "peeling" from the stainless.
 
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