txtowman: You got good advice from Centerline and dubious info from Dougo.
I may not be an "expert", but I make my living operating & maintaining 2-cycle blowers, trimmers, chainsaws, and the like. We had a chainsaw with one day's use seize-up due to phase separation, so I'd say the dangers are real.
My comments are based on literature I've read and seminars I've attended on the subject. Echo published this article some may find interesting:
http://www.echo-usa.com/Warranty/Learn-About-Ethanol/Ethanol-Fuel-062512
Doug
in my opinion, what you said qualifies as good enough to steer a person in the right direction, and that is really all that matters....
everyone should know, or needs to know that ethanol fuel does leave a black sticky residue in the bottom of the fuel tank, as well as in the bottom of the carburetor. this sticky residue getting into the carburetor is one of the reason the motors start hard, run poorly, or not at all..... and needs to be cleaned out by a service technician, which is expensive, time consuming, and troublesome to get it to the shop for them to work on it.... another reason it causes trouble is because when they add the ethanol to the fuel, it reduces the combustibility of it...
if anyone wants to prevent the $200 dollar service charge, the time and the trouble of having their carb cleaned at the most inconvenient time, switch to ethanol FREE fuel and let the motor live happily ever after... the extra cost of the clean fuel will be cheaper than repair costs, no matter if you use a 2yr or 10yr cost analysis to figure it out...
given the fact that we do need to use whatever fuel is available to feed the engine, the only thing worse than using ethanol fuel in it, it to add "HEAT" or some other brand of "moisture removing" additive to the tank.... unless you plan to remove all the fuel from the tank within the next 12 hours, as it will compound the problem rather quickly.