Rear bilge cracks and leaks

[Wayne24182]

Has anyone had a their rear bilge crack like this (see photo)? Mine did over the weekend and salt water started seeping out of it. I have had the boat hauled out in order to find the source of the leak, but it appears that something leaked between the pan and hull. I had a diver check the keel and rudder which were fine. He did notice that air from his breather got sucked into the prop shaft area, however I have no leaking at the packing gland, that pan is "dry as a bone".The leak would fill the bilge with about 1.75" of water (not even enough to activate the pump switch). I "wet vacuumed" it out and the same amount appeared after around 24 hours. I then let is sit undisturbed for a 24 hour period and the bilge pump activated twice when it hit 2.25", and then never again. This morning there was water, but if seemed to settle in at the height of the crack and no more. The crack is approximately 36" below the waterline.I obviously cannot get behind where this crack is, so I have no other clues.Any help or similar experiences would be appreciated.

 

[Waffle]

All bolted on keel boats leak

yours looks bad. Do you think the boat was every dropped or set down hard?It looks like it happened over time and just got worse. I think all bolted on keel boats leak. That is why most of us have wet bilge. I know I know yours don't. I have hear it before!From the picture it is hard to tell the extent of the break. The right way to fix it is drop the keel and have the entire keel stub check and all cracks fixed. The cheap way is to remove the nut and patch it up with 3M 5300 (maybe just as good a fix).I passed during the survey of a Catalina 380 because of a crack like this but I wanted out of the boat. There is a reason why Island Packet cost twice as much. You get what you pay for.

 

[s sauer]

Possible structural repair

It would be easier to judge if you had a few photos, but this does look like impact damage, like the boat was set down hard on the aft end of the keel. I would have it hauled and have a surveyor look at it.5200 may temporarily slow the influx of water, but would also need to be removed before a permanent epoxy & glass cloth repair / patch. A better temporary repair would be to use a Dremmel tool to rout out the joint to clean down to solid material maybe a half inch deep. Then fill the joint with an epoxy patching material such as PC-7 in at least two applications, pushed solidly into all crevases with a flat bladed screw driver.