What a great resource. I didn't realize just how simple fiberglass repair really is. all the repairs needed to the boat are fiberglass....and the bulkhead. Only question I have that was not answered by the book, or even addressed: how exactly fo I remove the bulkheads? Once I have the boat in my legal possession, I shall look at it much closer and hope the answer presents itself (the owner is looking for the license reg for it right now, the HIN number plate I could not find).
Reading This Old Boat by Don Casey
- Thread starter dwayne13628
- Start date
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
removing bulkheads
Think of how they was built, the steps used to make them. then undo it in reverse order. Not trying to sound smart@$$ but that solution works on 75% of boat problems. Don Casey book describes how to build a bulkhead. Fiberglass tape usually can be pulled off. If not, it can be cut and scraped off with the fillet bond. I used a razorknife to go around the bulkhead to cut as much of the resin on the ends as possible. then used a hammer and block of wood to remove the bulkhead. There might be an easier way but that works.
Think of how they was built, the steps used to make them. then undo it in reverse order. Not trying to sound smart@$$ but that solution works on 75% of boat problems. Don Casey book describes how to build a bulkhead. Fiberglass tape usually can be pulled off. If not, it can be cut and scraped off with the fillet bond. I used a razorknife to go around the bulkhead to cut as much of the resin on the ends as possible. then used a hammer and block of wood to remove the bulkhead. There might be an easier way but that works.
K.I.S.S. always seems to work
I was hopping this was just going to be a matter of using some commonsense. Thanks.
I was hopping this was just going to be a matter of using some commonsense. Thanks.
H
Herb Parsons
Bulkhead Removal
I recently removed the bulkheads from my O'Day 25. Keep in mind, your configuration may be different. First, there were two types of bulkheads. The forward bulkheads, separating the v-berth from the head, were simply screwed into place, using molded in tabs at on the top of the cabin and the sole. Those that were even with the compression post, about the middle of the boat, were glassed in as well as screwed in. The forward bulkheads were unscrewed, and came very loose; however, the angle and shape of the bulkheads prevented them from being pulled out (the tabs were in the way). I had to use a jigsaw to cut one small corner out of each one to remove them. I'm thinking of leaving that corner off of those when I put them back, and using it as a channel hole for cabling and water lines. The main support bulkheads were glassed in, as I said, as well as screwed to the tabs. I decided to use a dremel tool to cut the tabbing from the hull. That worked fine on one side, but on the forward side, the ange of hull agains the bulkhead prevented me from getting the dremel in place. So, I bought a cheap set of wood chisels and small hammer, and prepared myself to spend all day chisling away at it. Surprisingly, it was VERY easy to chisel throght the tabbing. Line up the chisel in the corner, hit it once or twice, then move on down. It was really almost as fast as using the Dremel. After the bulkhead was completely freed, it still would not come out, the tabs were in the way. So, I had to cut these as well to remove them. I called Rudy Nickerson, who worked for O'Day when these boats were built, and he confirmed that the hull was formed, the bulkheads put in place, then the deck installed over it all, and that I probably would never have been able to remove them without cutting. This also means that I'll have to install the new bulkheads in two pieces (the main support bulkheads will be, the forward bulkheads, rounding the corner will work to get them in.) My plan is to reinstall the main bulkheads with a small portion cut off, piece them together, and then fiberglass them back together, finally covering that with a piece of trim. Keep in mind, yours may be totall different. BTW, mine were 1/2" plywood.
I recently removed the bulkheads from my O'Day 25. Keep in mind, your configuration may be different. First, there were two types of bulkheads. The forward bulkheads, separating the v-berth from the head, were simply screwed into place, using molded in tabs at on the top of the cabin and the sole. Those that were even with the compression post, about the middle of the boat, were glassed in as well as screwed in. The forward bulkheads were unscrewed, and came very loose; however, the angle and shape of the bulkheads prevented them from being pulled out (the tabs were in the way). I had to use a jigsaw to cut one small corner out of each one to remove them. I'm thinking of leaving that corner off of those when I put them back, and using it as a channel hole for cabling and water lines. The main support bulkheads were glassed in, as I said, as well as screwed to the tabs. I decided to use a dremel tool to cut the tabbing from the hull. That worked fine on one side, but on the forward side, the ange of hull agains the bulkhead prevented me from getting the dremel in place. So, I bought a cheap set of wood chisels and small hammer, and prepared myself to spend all day chisling away at it. Surprisingly, it was VERY easy to chisel throght the tabbing. Line up the chisel in the corner, hit it once or twice, then move on down. It was really almost as fast as using the Dremel. After the bulkhead was completely freed, it still would not come out, the tabs were in the way. So, I had to cut these as well to remove them. I called Rudy Nickerson, who worked for O'Day when these boats were built, and he confirmed that the hull was formed, the bulkheads put in place, then the deck installed over it all, and that I probably would never have been able to remove them without cutting. This also means that I'll have to install the new bulkheads in two pieces (the main support bulkheads will be, the forward bulkheads, rounding the corner will work to get them in.) My plan is to reinstall the main bulkheads with a small portion cut off, piece them together, and then fiberglass them back together, finally covering that with a piece of trim. Keep in mind, yours may be totall different. BTW, mine were 1/2" plywood.
E
Ed
Reverse Process
Interiors are usually installed before the deck is lowered onto the hull. Once the lid is on, it can be a problem to remove major elements, so trying to reverse the installation won't work. To remove the partitions (don't really qualify as bulkheads) in my Oday25, I used a bottle jack with load bracing to lift the roof about 3/4 inch.
Interiors are usually installed before the deck is lowered onto the hull. Once the lid is on, it can be a problem to remove major elements, so trying to reverse the installation won't work. To remove the partitions (don't really qualify as bulkheads) in my Oday25, I used a bottle jack with load bracing to lift the roof about 3/4 inch.
H
Herb Parsons
Bottle Jack Use
Folks, sorry to veer away from the original topic a little, but: Ed, I'd like to hear more about how you did this. Where exactly did you put the bottle jack? I'm assuming you used something like a 2x4 between the jack and the deck? If so, where did you place it against the top of the cabin to make it work? Did you do the center and put both bulkheads in, or did you do it on the side and do one at a time? I'd like to hear more soon, as I'm about to put in my bulkheads within a week, and would rather NOT do the "two piece" method I had planned on my O'Day 25.
Folks, sorry to veer away from the original topic a little, but: Ed, I'd like to hear more about how you did this. Where exactly did you put the bottle jack? I'm assuming you used something like a 2x4 between the jack and the deck? If so, where did you place it against the top of the cabin to make it work? Did you do the center and put both bulkheads in, or did you do it on the side and do one at a time? I'd like to hear more soon, as I'm about to put in my bulkheads within a week, and would rather NOT do the "two piece" method I had planned on my O'Day 25.
E
Ed
Bottle Jack
When I removed the forward partions, I too cut a lower corner off to wiggle them out. At the time, the mast was still up. I took the mast down before removing the chainplate partitions. I have already done an R&R on the floor to replace the stringers around the keel stub. I placed a 2x12 under the jack and about a 6x6x1 of some hardwood between the coach roof and a vertical 2x4 standing on the jack for an extension. I placed the jack just aft of the compression post. The post is not attached at the top. It was easy to see the amount I was lifting the roof by looking at the gap between the post and roof. The bulkheads came out bottom edge forward and towards the centerline. I am glassing in new topsides beams from the stern to the v-berth, as opposed to the stock beam that only goes forward to the main bulkheads. I want to replace all the interior wood with baltic birch to lighten up the interior, but am having a hard time finding white birch marine ply with 2 good sides. The boat is also on the hard if it makes any difference. The link below is to some photos of the exterior redo. It too was a "Dwayne boat". I would not do it again. Most expensive $1k boat in the yard.
When I removed the forward partions, I too cut a lower corner off to wiggle them out. At the time, the mast was still up. I took the mast down before removing the chainplate partitions. I have already done an R&R on the floor to replace the stringers around the keel stub. I placed a 2x12 under the jack and about a 6x6x1 of some hardwood between the coach roof and a vertical 2x4 standing on the jack for an extension. I placed the jack just aft of the compression post. The post is not attached at the top. It was easy to see the amount I was lifting the roof by looking at the gap between the post and roof. The bulkheads came out bottom edge forward and towards the centerline. I am glassing in new topsides beams from the stern to the v-berth, as opposed to the stock beam that only goes forward to the main bulkheads. I want to replace all the interior wood with baltic birch to lighten up the interior, but am having a hard time finding white birch marine ply with 2 good sides. The boat is also on the hard if it makes any difference. The link below is to some photos of the exterior redo. It too was a "Dwayne boat". I would not do it again. Most expensive $1k boat in the yard.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.