I re-sealed two portlites a couple of months ago and had such good success that I wanted to share with other Catalina 30 boat owners.
The first step in being successful in re-sealing the windows is to understand WHY the problem exists in the first place. The answer to this is that when the holes were cut out at the factory they were a little sloppy in that the whole had been cut a little large leaving little sealing area on the cabin wall to make a good seal. Additionally, there is probably a little breakdown of the Butel sealant that they used over the years.
First step is to take out all the screws from the inside of the port lite frame, remove the ring from the inside. Have someone on the outside to catch the window or make arrangements to otherwise catch the lite before it goes into the drink. Gently but firmly push the window out of its cut-out.
Step two is to clean off all of the old Butel sealant used by the factory from the window and the cabin wall. Mostly, you will have to use a putty knife to get the old stuff off. There was something kind of cleaner I used that was helpful but don't remember what that was but one can try lacquer thinner?
Step 3 Re-position the window back into its hole and center it so that all sides have about the same sealing area then mark with a #2 pencil all round the lite (on the outside using flange as a guide) to indicate final position desired. Note...it is good to use a small spacer under the lite that the lite can rest on when installing. The size of these spacers will vary according to how the portlite centers...mine were about 1/4 x 1/4 x about 1.5". I usually glue these two pieces into place before applying the portlite sealant--Life Seal
Step 4 I used Life Seal sealant from West Marine but is sold all over. I have found this sealant to be very good. Run a bead of Life Seal on the cabin wall within the 1/2" or so sealing area which will be hidden by the portlite flange. Life Seal is clear so press the portlite back into its hole allowing it to rest onto the little support blocks you previously glued into place at the bottom of the inside of the hole act as a rest. Insure the portlite is properly centered by making sure the outside flange hits the pencil line all round. Hold into place with a little weight (not a lot) by utilizing some small 2x4's and allow to dry to proper cure as indicated on sealant tube. Make sure the portlite is up against the cabin or hull all the way with no sizable gaps.
Step 5 After sealant has had time to cure go ahead and install the inside ring. It is important to pre-straighten or re-straiten the bend areas around the screw holes that were cause by frustrated boat owners trying to stop the leaking portlite in times past. Do not over tighten the ring when installing and it will not dent at the screw holes. The sealant will actually hold it in place the ring is more cosmetic but also helps hold the lite into place.
Step 6 Remove extra Life Seal from the outer flange area. I used mostly some razor blades of various types, i.e., flat holder is most effective.
I put up with these two port lites leaking (lightly) for years before I got the balls to tackle it. Now, I'm glad I did and the whole job was less trouble than I thought it would be. Finding enough good space to make the seal between the lite and the flange is the real trick and marking the proper position for this with the pencil is really important. Each portlite only took about an hour initially to clean up, clean up and install.
After reading a reply post to this article I should make it clear that I did not believe that the leaking of water was caused by the window glass gasket because when I removed the portlite unit it was clear by looking at the narrow sealing area that this was the culprit. I did, however, use some silicone grease on the gasket to rejuvenate the rubber then wiped off access...again. all is still working well.
Any comments as to weather this article was helpful will be appreciated.. Sincerely, LC Campbell
The first step in being successful in re-sealing the windows is to understand WHY the problem exists in the first place. The answer to this is that when the holes were cut out at the factory they were a little sloppy in that the whole had been cut a little large leaving little sealing area on the cabin wall to make a good seal. Additionally, there is probably a little breakdown of the Butel sealant that they used over the years.
First step is to take out all the screws from the inside of the port lite frame, remove the ring from the inside. Have someone on the outside to catch the window or make arrangements to otherwise catch the lite before it goes into the drink. Gently but firmly push the window out of its cut-out.
Step two is to clean off all of the old Butel sealant used by the factory from the window and the cabin wall. Mostly, you will have to use a putty knife to get the old stuff off. There was something kind of cleaner I used that was helpful but don't remember what that was but one can try lacquer thinner?
Step 3 Re-position the window back into its hole and center it so that all sides have about the same sealing area then mark with a #2 pencil all round the lite (on the outside using flange as a guide) to indicate final position desired. Note...it is good to use a small spacer under the lite that the lite can rest on when installing. The size of these spacers will vary according to how the portlite centers...mine were about 1/4 x 1/4 x about 1.5". I usually glue these two pieces into place before applying the portlite sealant--Life Seal
Step 4 I used Life Seal sealant from West Marine but is sold all over. I have found this sealant to be very good. Run a bead of Life Seal on the cabin wall within the 1/2" or so sealing area which will be hidden by the portlite flange. Life Seal is clear so press the portlite back into its hole allowing it to rest onto the little support blocks you previously glued into place at the bottom of the inside of the hole act as a rest. Insure the portlite is properly centered by making sure the outside flange hits the pencil line all round. Hold into place with a little weight (not a lot) by utilizing some small 2x4's and allow to dry to proper cure as indicated on sealant tube. Make sure the portlite is up against the cabin or hull all the way with no sizable gaps.
Step 5 After sealant has had time to cure go ahead and install the inside ring. It is important to pre-straighten or re-straiten the bend areas around the screw holes that were cause by frustrated boat owners trying to stop the leaking portlite in times past. Do not over tighten the ring when installing and it will not dent at the screw holes. The sealant will actually hold it in place the ring is more cosmetic but also helps hold the lite into place.
Step 6 Remove extra Life Seal from the outer flange area. I used mostly some razor blades of various types, i.e., flat holder is most effective.
I put up with these two port lites leaking (lightly) for years before I got the balls to tackle it. Now, I'm glad I did and the whole job was less trouble than I thought it would be. Finding enough good space to make the seal between the lite and the flange is the real trick and marking the proper position for this with the pencil is really important. Each portlite only took about an hour initially to clean up, clean up and install.
After reading a reply post to this article I should make it clear that I did not believe that the leaking of water was caused by the window glass gasket because when I removed the portlite unit it was clear by looking at the narrow sealing area that this was the culprit. I did, however, use some silicone grease on the gasket to rejuvenate the rubber then wiped off access...again. all is still working well.
Any comments as to weather this article was helpful will be appreciated.. Sincerely, LC Campbell
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