Having an interesting time measuring the standing rigging for replacement as hardly any of the figures i get correspond to hunter spec sheet dated 1986{the original , i presume} If anyone has re rigged with success i'd love to compare notes before ordering----to be sure , to be sure! regards jon dobbin s/v flight deck
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bp
Same Story
My 37.5 rigging (forestay+backstays) are way off specs. I reordered according to the original specs, since they seemed to make more sense than the way the original rigging was cut. So what's the story with hunter and rigging? This seems to be a real problem with them.
My 37.5 rigging (forestay+backstays) are way off specs. I reordered according to the original specs, since they seemed to make more sense than the way the original rigging was cut. So what's the story with hunter and rigging? This seems to be a real problem with them.
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Bill
Stretch
I have limited experience with rigging but last year replaced some life lines. Sent the measurements of the old lines. Went to install the new ones and they were way too tight or just plain short. I had to add a 1 1/2 inch shackel just to get them on. Once they were on they stretched out perfectly. If in doubt, talk to your rigger and I am sure they factor stretch into the equation. I once saw a formula, but forget where ( perhaps this old boat),which helps determine the amount of stretch. Hopes this helps.
I have limited experience with rigging but last year replaced some life lines. Sent the measurements of the old lines. Went to install the new ones and they were way too tight or just plain short. I had to add a 1 1/2 inch shackel just to get them on. Once they were on they stretched out perfectly. If in doubt, talk to your rigger and I am sure they factor stretch into the equation. I once saw a formula, but forget where ( perhaps this old boat),which helps determine the amount of stretch. Hopes this helps.
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Barrie McDonald
re rigging Your Sail Boat
Jon, 2 tips for you.Get your self a "Rig Tension Gauge". Its simple to use and enables you to measure the rigging tension and tighten or loosen it as required. Its available from West Marine , their web site is "www.westmarine.com" Tip # 2. Take a green nylon brail (cleaning) pad and shine the outside of the base clamps(Swags I think they are called) where the stainless steel wire is secured just before it screws into the turnbuckle which is attached to the deck fitting. If you see tiny rust spots or little cracks then replace your rigging. Usually its the clamps that rust the rigging inside which fails thus letting go of the wire and then your mast falls down. Good Luck, Barrie
Jon, 2 tips for you.Get your self a "Rig Tension Gauge". Its simple to use and enables you to measure the rigging tension and tighten or loosen it as required. Its available from West Marine , their web site is "www.westmarine.com" Tip # 2. Take a green nylon brail (cleaning) pad and shine the outside of the base clamps(Swags I think they are called) where the stainless steel wire is secured just before it screws into the turnbuckle which is attached to the deck fitting. If you see tiny rust spots or little cracks then replace your rigging. Usually its the clamps that rust the rigging inside which fails thus letting go of the wire and then your mast falls down. Good Luck, Barrie
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Rod
Rerigging
Jon, I don't think you have any REAL measurments from Hunter. If your going by the I P J E these Correspond for sail measurements. I just looked for my head stay length but can't find it. I put on a new Headstay and sail thought it might give you base to work from. Hope it helps.
Jon, I don't think you have any REAL measurments from Hunter. If your going by the I P J E these Correspond for sail measurements. I just looked for my head stay length but can't find it. I put on a new Headstay and sail thought it might give you base to work from. Hope it helps.
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Scott Hoover
Same questions
Jon; I also have a 45. Is it possible for you to share the specs from Hunter and your measurements in the future. I am going to make some changes in the spring to the rigging. Is this a project to replace the rigging or are you looking for improvements? I have been thinking about adding some bearing plates to the mast where the shrouds attach. There seems to be some enlargement of the aluminum compression post in these locations and may result in small cracks. I am also looking at adding an adjustable backstay with a block on the main stay and hydraulic assembly to adjust the tension on the split. Sailing with high winds the top 5 to 10 feet of the mast will flex and sag the forestay quite a bit. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Scott
Jon; I also have a 45. Is it possible for you to share the specs from Hunter and your measurements in the future. I am going to make some changes in the spring to the rigging. Is this a project to replace the rigging or are you looking for improvements? I have been thinking about adding some bearing plates to the mast where the shrouds attach. There seems to be some enlargement of the aluminum compression post in these locations and may result in small cracks. I am also looking at adding an adjustable backstay with a block on the main stay and hydraulic assembly to adjust the tension on the split. Sailing with high winds the top 5 to 10 feet of the mast will flex and sag the forestay quite a bit. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Scott
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Gene Jones
I used a back stay tensioner on my h45
I installed a back stay tensioner on my H45 Fairwind. It has worked wonders on the forestay in winds over 20 knots (normal sail in SF Bay). I just used a 4 part block system and a two part line. You will not have enough travel in a hydraulic system to get enough tension. Gene Jones Fairwind
I installed a back stay tensioner on my H45 Fairwind. It has worked wonders on the forestay in winds over 20 knots (normal sail in SF Bay). I just used a 4 part block system and a two part line. You will not have enough travel in a hydraulic system to get enough tension. Gene Jones Fairwind
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