Re-Post Which Cutlass Bearing to use?

[Witzend]

Here is the problem:
I just spoke to Duramax about the bearing they sent me that was out of spec. To put a long story short, they admitted that the catalog dim. for the wall thickness for the "Back" (1.25 OD for a 1" shaft) is incorrectly stating as 3/64 (.046) and should be .058 mine measured close to .70 so there was very little rubber inside the shell (see photo).

Morris manufactures the "Blackfish" same Dim. except the wall is listed as 1/32 or .031. which seem a little thin and may be prone to mushrooming in a tight fit situation. I'm trying to find someone who can spec the part out to see what it really is.

Here is the rub:
Do I go with the Duramax and not have to worry as much about mushrooming during installation, but do worry about scoring the shaft if things get out of alignment, or do I go with the thinner wall Morris and hope it slides in with out too much force and then have much thicker rubber wall to buffer against scoring?

 

[damauney]

I have had good luck with Buck Algonquin. Try URL below

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pages/ProductPages/drivetrain/brass_bearing_pg1.html

 

[Hermit Scott]

Here is the problem:
I just spoke to Duramax about the bearing they sent me that was out of spec. To put a long story short, they admitted that the catalog dim. for the wall thickness for the "Back" (1.25 OD for a 1" shaft) is incorrectly stating as 3/64 (.046) and should be .058 mine measured close to .70 so there was very little rubber inside the shell (see photo).

Morris manufactures the "Blackfish" same Dim. except the wall is listed as 1/32 or .031. which seem a little thin and may be prone to mushrooming in a tight fit situation. I'm trying to find someone who can spec the part out to see what it really is.

Here is the rub:
Do I go with the Duramax and not have to worry as much about mushrooming during installation, but do worry about scoring the shaft if things get out of alignment, or do I go with the thinner wall Morris and hope it slides in with out too much force and then have much thicker rubber wall to buffer against scoring?

Even with a "thinner" rubber wall by the time you have a problem you are WAY out of tolerance and know it anyway. I would use which ever one I had on hand and make sure the shaft is in alignment.

 

[Witzend]

I decided on what was originally installed, the "Blackfish" by Morse. God knows why these parts have names?
Yes, I will make every effort to keep things aligned, but shit happens and there is no reason not to have some extra buffer. If the Duramax was installed I would be replacing my shaft as well because the P.O. did not pay attention to the alignment as the motor mounts settled. So I'm glad it wasn't. Now with, new motor mounts, damper plate, cutlass bearing, packing, no idling the engine to charge the batteries (80W of solar power) and regular alignment checks, I will be good for a while.
Ever go down and look at your motor while making way in a pounding chop or going over monster skinkpot (plowing like a water farmer) wake? The engine moves, the boat flexes, things get knocked about, yea it may be temporary, but the screw is turning.

 

[Witzend]

BTW the Morse "BlackFish" is advertized with a 1/32" wall thickness, and it actually is 3/64" So it seem both manufactures have their specs incorrect. I can live with the 3/64" but not the .70 that Duramax was. The Duramax literally had no rubber in it.