What's the best way to obliterate old name on the transom ? Any special technique or just multi-coats of hull paint ? Also need source for new name decal to be affixed. Years back an outfit in Rochester NY custom made adhesive decals. Would also like to blank out the large "27" on both sides of hull and make the black 2 in. stripe continuous.
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A
Andy
New Name
Bill, We are in the same boat, so to speak. Take a look at the archives of the forums with a search for vinyl letters and other appropriate keywords. There are a number of suggestions for changing vinyl and painted names. One fellow says he saved a bit of money by going to a local sign shop. It was a fraction of the cost of "marine" suppliers.
Bill, We are in the same boat, so to speak. Take a look at the archives of the forums with a search for vinyl letters and other appropriate keywords. There are a number of suggestions for changing vinyl and painted names. One fellow says he saved a bit of money by going to a local sign shop. It was a fraction of the cost of "marine" suppliers.
G
Greg
Vinyl or Paint?
If the old name is vinyl then a hair dryer and patience pulling will get the old name off. If it's painted then Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove the old paint without harming the gel coat. I've done both with very satisfactory results on two hunters. Regarding a new name. Look for a local sign/lettering company doing 3M vinyl. It looks the best and last the longest. I just re-did mine and the sign company was able to copy my design I did in Microsoft Publisher. Second Wind has a great looking stern in three colors, with lettering and graphics in a 20" x 48" area for only $150 and it looks like $600 worth!
If the old name is vinyl then a hair dryer and patience pulling will get the old name off. If it's painted then Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove the old paint without harming the gel coat. I've done both with very satisfactory results on two hunters. Regarding a new name. Look for a local sign/lettering company doing 3M vinyl. It looks the best and last the longest. I just re-did mine and the sign company was able to copy my design I did in Microsoft Publisher. Second Wind has a great looking stern in three colors, with lettering and graphics in a 20" x 48" area for only $150 and it looks like $600 worth!
J
Jim O'Brien
did same last year
I did the same lsat year. I removed old painted name with Easy off oven cleaner and got a new decal from ????? . I can look it up for you but they advertise in Sail Magazine. Did everything via e-mail. If you e-mail me directly I can send a picture of the name and give you the Mfg's name. Zcoolbreez@aol.com no "e" at the end ... someone else has that on Compuserve and always gets my mail.
I did the same lsat year. I removed old painted name with Easy off oven cleaner and got a new decal from ????? . I can look it up for you but they advertise in Sail Magazine. Did everything via e-mail. If you e-mail me directly I can send a picture of the name and give you the Mfg's name. Zcoolbreez@aol.com no "e" at the end ... someone else has that on Compuserve and always gets my mail.
Obliterating old graphics
Most tape-type adhesives will come off with a generous washing with mineral spirits (paint thinner) or acetone. Gummy masking tape and vinyl stick-on letters are easily rubbed off– unless they are dried and stiff. Then it gets nasty. Finished fibreglass is notoriously durable stuff– forget the chemistry, because in practice it will take plenty of chemical abuse. Beyond acetone comes stuff like methalene choride which is used as a dewaxer after pulling the hull from the mould. This will get a lot of gnarly stuff off. The nastiest of all these noted carcinogens is methyl-ethyl-ketone (MEK), which is the solvent for uncured fibreglass resin. Naturally these will destroy any polished finish you have on the hull, but if the residue from the tape or letters has become part of the hull then this is what you have to do. Also, beware of using this kind of stuff casually. NEVER mix these things– if you can even buy them in the same store, don't use one, give up on it, and directly apply another. And of course don't get it on you. MEK will melt most common plastic or rubber gloves– you'll need the big black chemical-handling kind and they may end up disposable (see your boatyard about how to do that). Acetone and other chemical solvents appear to dissipate or evaporate quickly– probably half of that 'evaporation' is the chemical soaking into your skin. These things are inert and will never leave your system. Enough build-up in your body will facilitate cancer (as with my late father). However as with acetone-based nail-polish remover a little prudent usage will do little to endanger you. Be careful and use only as much of any solvent as you have to. The EPA will not thank you for having torrents of the stuff run down the keel into the ground or water. Common sense dictates that you use eye protection, wear old clothes or a work apron, and not have any children or other innocents around. If all else fails, or if none of these sound inviting, you will have to sand off the gunk. As with chemicals start light and do only as much as you have to. In both cases polish the surface back up using 400 and 600 wet-and-dry and coat it out as soon as possible with a good fibreglass wax (something stronger than Star-Brite) or buffing compound. Otherwise the newly stripped and porous area will go grey with atmospheric dirt and weather, and that will NOT come out easily. As an aside, I recommend VERY careful, sober forethought in naming a yacht and then, if the ICC will accept your net tonnage, getting the boat federally documented. The boat thus becomes permanently known by the name and there won't be any owner-by-owner removals. JC
Most tape-type adhesives will come off with a generous washing with mineral spirits (paint thinner) or acetone. Gummy masking tape and vinyl stick-on letters are easily rubbed off– unless they are dried and stiff. Then it gets nasty. Finished fibreglass is notoriously durable stuff– forget the chemistry, because in practice it will take plenty of chemical abuse. Beyond acetone comes stuff like methalene choride which is used as a dewaxer after pulling the hull from the mould. This will get a lot of gnarly stuff off. The nastiest of all these noted carcinogens is methyl-ethyl-ketone (MEK), which is the solvent for uncured fibreglass resin. Naturally these will destroy any polished finish you have on the hull, but if the residue from the tape or letters has become part of the hull then this is what you have to do. Also, beware of using this kind of stuff casually. NEVER mix these things– if you can even buy them in the same store, don't use one, give up on it, and directly apply another. And of course don't get it on you. MEK will melt most common plastic or rubber gloves– you'll need the big black chemical-handling kind and they may end up disposable (see your boatyard about how to do that). Acetone and other chemical solvents appear to dissipate or evaporate quickly– probably half of that 'evaporation' is the chemical soaking into your skin. These things are inert and will never leave your system. Enough build-up in your body will facilitate cancer (as with my late father). However as with acetone-based nail-polish remover a little prudent usage will do little to endanger you. Be careful and use only as much of any solvent as you have to. The EPA will not thank you for having torrents of the stuff run down the keel into the ground or water. Common sense dictates that you use eye protection, wear old clothes or a work apron, and not have any children or other innocents around. If all else fails, or if none of these sound inviting, you will have to sand off the gunk. As with chemicals start light and do only as much as you have to. In both cases polish the surface back up using 400 and 600 wet-and-dry and coat it out as soon as possible with a good fibreglass wax (something stronger than Star-Brite) or buffing compound. Otherwise the newly stripped and porous area will go grey with atmospheric dirt and weather, and that will NOT come out easily. As an aside, I recommend VERY careful, sober forethought in naming a yacht and then, if the ICC will accept your net tonnage, getting the boat federally documented. The boat thus becomes permanently known by the name and there won't be any owner-by-owner removals. JC
L
Lyn
Peel Off?
Go to local auto body supply shop ask for KarKraft product to remove decals and stripes, or heat gun to heat up decal slightly for easy removal. Be careful with heat gun will get extremely hot!Take your time and peel it off. Then find a sign shop or lettering shop a professional shop will be able to make any lettering, any font, any color you want!
Go to local auto body supply shop ask for KarKraft product to remove decals and stripes, or heat gun to heat up decal slightly for easy removal. Be careful with heat gun will get extremely hot!Take your time and peel it off. Then find a sign shop or lettering shop a professional shop will be able to make any lettering, any font, any color you want!
L
Lyn
Peel Off?
Go to local auto body supply shop ask for KarKraft product to remove decals and stripes, or heat gun to heat up decal slightly for easy removal. Be careful with heat gun will get extremely hot!Take your time and peel it off. Then find a sign shop or lettering shop a professional shop will be able to make any lettering, any font, any color you want!
Go to local auto body supply shop ask for KarKraft product to remove decals and stripes, or heat gun to heat up decal slightly for easy removal. Be careful with heat gun will get extremely hot!Take your time and peel it off. Then find a sign shop or lettering shop a professional shop will be able to make any lettering, any font, any color you want!
Check the photo forum
Bill: I removed the stripes on the cabin of our H'31 with a product called an eraser. It is a wheel that you use on a drill or pneumatic tool. It worked when a heat gun wouldn't. If you look in the photo forum under 'de-stripping', you can see the process and the tool too. These are available over the web and at auto paint stores.
Bill: I removed the stripes on the cabin of our H'31 with a product called an eraser. It is a wheel that you use on a drill or pneumatic tool. It worked when a heat gun wouldn't. If you look in the photo forum under 'de-stripping', you can see the process and the tool too. These are available over the web and at auto paint stores.
Check the photo forum
Bill: I removed the stripes on the cabin of our H'31 with a product called an eraser. It is a wheel that you use on a drill or pneumatic tool. It worked when a heat gun wouldn't. If you look in the photo forum under 'de-stripping', you can see the process and the tool too. These are available over the web and at auto paint stores.
Bill: I removed the stripes on the cabin of our H'31 with a product called an eraser. It is a wheel that you use on a drill or pneumatic tool. It worked when a heat gun wouldn't. If you look in the photo forum under 'de-stripping', you can see the process and the tool too. These are available over the web and at auto paint stores.
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