My Hunter 285 (1987), like most I've seen, has the water fill located in the anchor locker which seems to me to be an after thought or just an easy place to have put it. However, as any of you who have this set up on your 285 know,it's a big pain to fill the freash water tank because you have to move a lot of anchor line and chain just to get to the fill. But I did see a Hunter 285, that was on sale at a marina near me, that had the fill located on the deck between the anchor locker and the jib furler bracket. This is the best place, in my opinion to put the fill because of it's easy access. So, I want to re-locate mine to this same spot but there is a hitch. There is no way, that I can see to get to the area, under the deck, forward of the anchor locker inside the "V" berth. Again, those of you with a 285 know that the molded locker is just too big to get around. Seems to me I'd have to reach this spot so I could tighten down the hose clamps that would go on the back end of the fill. From that point the hose would continue onto the tank just like the present hose does from the bottom of the anchor locker. If you have a 285, with the water fill on top of the deck, forward of the anchor locker, how do you get to the hose clamps? I could attach the hose clamps and then feed the hose along with the clamps (attached to the fill) through a larger hole in the top of the deck but I think that the hole would be too large and the fill flange would not cover it.
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Wondering...
Why would you have to go forward of the anchor locker? Why can't you take a fill hose to the port or starboard side? That you happened to see one boat on which the deckfill was in a particular location doesn't necessarily mean that's the only place to put it. It may be--I'm flying a bit blind, trying to visualize exactly where your tank is and how to get a hose to the deck from it...but I'm often amazed by the amount of effort some people will put into creating an incredibly difficult solution to a problem that could have been solved very easily...and I'm wondering if that was the case on the boat you saw.
Why would you have to go forward of the anchor locker? Why can't you take a fill hose to the port or starboard side? That you happened to see one boat on which the deckfill was in a particular location doesn't necessarily mean that's the only place to put it. It may be--I'm flying a bit blind, trying to visualize exactly where your tank is and how to get a hose to the deck from it...but I'm often amazed by the amount of effort some people will put into creating an incredibly difficult solution to a problem that could have been solved very easily...and I'm wondering if that was the case on the boat you saw.
Port & Starboard too narrow
There is just not enogh room to go either port or starboard of the anchor locker. The locker is actually in the "v" birth but only part of it can be seen. The rest of it is behind a small wall with an access door to the area behind the existing fill. This is towards the bow. If I were to locate the fill behind the locker, on the deck, then the hose would go right into the "v" berth and just over our heads. It's amazing that there is no way to access the area in the bow! There may be a way to do it but it might require that I remove everything from the "v" birth are to get to it, including the water tank which is just below the birth. I don't have any photos with me to show you but I may have some tomorrow or early next week which I will post.
There is just not enogh room to go either port or starboard of the anchor locker. The locker is actually in the "v" birth but only part of it can be seen. The rest of it is behind a small wall with an access door to the area behind the existing fill. This is towards the bow. If I were to locate the fill behind the locker, on the deck, then the hose would go right into the "v" berth and just over our heads. It's amazing that there is no way to access the area in the bow! There may be a way to do it but it might require that I remove everything from the "v" birth are to get to it, including the water tank which is just below the birth. I don't have any photos with me to show you but I may have some tomorrow or early next week which I will post.
Wait a minute...
If you have access to the tank to fill it, you have access to thread a hose barb into the existing fill opening (I'm assuming it's a standard 1.5" threaded female tank fitting...if not, you have bigger problems than you realize). Here's how I THINK you can do it: Install the thread-barb tank fitting. Use a hole saw to drill your hole for the deck fitting. The toughtest part of the job is getting the hose onto the deck fill after you've installed it...so instead, put the hose on the deck fitting before you drop it in, but do not put any hose clamps on yet...you'll slide those on from the other end. Feed the hose down the hole in the deck when you drop it in. Slide 4 clamps over the other end of the hose...which you'll position and tighten up after you've connected the hose to the fitting on the tank. SeaLand makes component fittings that will also make that part fairly easy...'cuz the threaded piece is separate from the hose barb...they go together with PVC cement, and you can also insert a 90 or a 45 between the two. This type of fitting will allow you put the fitting on the hose while it's still dangling instead trying to wrestle it onto a fitting already threaded into the tank...and let you get your hose clamps on where they belong. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, email me...I have the SeaLand catalog--it's small--in PDF on my computer...I'll email it back to you). Figure out ahead of time how much hose you'll need, and whether the tank fitting should be a straight or an elbow. (I'm thinking elbow, so you can put a big bend in the hose to keep it to one side or the other of the chain locker). I still think you can put the deckfill to one side or the other of the bow, not dead center...which will also help to keep the hose out of the way. Mostly a lot of blind brainstorming here...but whaddaya think? Oh...one more thing: this tank IS vented? 'Cuz it has to be to use a deckfill.
If you have access to the tank to fill it, you have access to thread a hose barb into the existing fill opening (I'm assuming it's a standard 1.5" threaded female tank fitting...if not, you have bigger problems than you realize). Here's how I THINK you can do it: Install the thread-barb tank fitting. Use a hole saw to drill your hole for the deck fitting. The toughtest part of the job is getting the hose onto the deck fill after you've installed it...so instead, put the hose on the deck fitting before you drop it in, but do not put any hose clamps on yet...you'll slide those on from the other end. Feed the hose down the hole in the deck when you drop it in. Slide 4 clamps over the other end of the hose...which you'll position and tighten up after you've connected the hose to the fitting on the tank. SeaLand makes component fittings that will also make that part fairly easy...'cuz the threaded piece is separate from the hose barb...they go together with PVC cement, and you can also insert a 90 or a 45 between the two. This type of fitting will allow you put the fitting on the hose while it's still dangling instead trying to wrestle it onto a fitting already threaded into the tank...and let you get your hose clamps on where they belong. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, email me...I have the SeaLand catalog--it's small--in PDF on my computer...I'll email it back to you). Figure out ahead of time how much hose you'll need, and whether the tank fitting should be a straight or an elbow. (I'm thinking elbow, so you can put a big bend in the hose to keep it to one side or the other of the chain locker). I still think you can put the deckfill to one side or the other of the bow, not dead center...which will also help to keep the hose out of the way. Mostly a lot of blind brainstorming here...but whaddaya think? Oh...one more thing: this tank IS vented? 'Cuz it has to be to use a deckfill.
cut a notch
i was just wondering if you could go ahead and drill with your holesaw and then cut an extra little notch in your hole. for the clamp to pass through, then you could put your hose and clamp on sitting on the deck watching swimsuits. I bet you will find that the flange for the dek fitting will cover the extra notch no problem. i'm no fan of cutting anything extra but it would probably save a ton of work if this will help you. a little vaseline helps the hoses go on easier. don't be to generous with it if you are going to drink the water right away. we drink bottled and just wash up in the tank water.
i was just wondering if you could go ahead and drill with your holesaw and then cut an extra little notch in your hole. for the clamp to pass through, then you could put your hose and clamp on sitting on the deck watching swimsuits. I bet you will find that the flange for the dek fitting will cover the extra notch no problem. i'm no fan of cutting anything extra but it would probably save a ton of work if this will help you. a little vaseline helps the hoses go on easier. don't be to generous with it if you are going to drink the water right away. we drink bottled and just wash up in the tank water.
Wouldn't work...
The notch would have to bigger than could be sealed with bedding compound...water would get in...and that leads to fiberglass rot. NEVER use vaseline, or any other grease, on any hose connection. For one thing petroleum products damage hoses...for another, any grease creates a permanently greased connection that can work loose. Warm (note that I said "warm," not "heat") the hose a bit with a blow dryer to soften it a little, and use dishwashing liquid to lubricate. And btw, all hose connections should be double clamped, with the screws on opposing sides of the hose.
The notch would have to bigger than could be sealed with bedding compound...water would get in...and that leads to fiberglass rot. NEVER use vaseline, or any other grease, on any hose connection. For one thing petroleum products damage hoses...for another, any grease creates a permanently greased connection that can work loose. Warm (note that I said "warm," not "heat") the hose a bit with a blow dryer to soften it a little, and use dishwashing liquid to lubricate. And btw, all hose connections should be double clamped, with the screws on opposing sides of the hose.
thanks for the tip peggy
i had been smeering grease on hoses for 25 years. no customer ever brought any job i did back because of hose failure but your way makes more sense, also just because some old timer told me to do it that way a long time ago doesn't mean there is'nt a better way. also iv'e heatedhoses in hot water before is this good or bad? finally got my new head in and i'm going to fill it with water sat. to test it while it still smells nice, thanks for the advice.
i had been smeering grease on hoses for 25 years. no customer ever brought any job i did back because of hose failure but your way makes more sense, also just because some old timer told me to do it that way a long time ago doesn't mean there is'nt a better way. also iv'e heatedhoses in hot water before is this good or bad? finally got my new head in and i'm going to fill it with water sat. to test it while it still smells nice, thanks for the advice.
Anchor Well Access in 28.5's
I removed the access panel bulkhead in the V berth and installed plywood backing for an anchor well cleat through bolted on the 'inacesible' forward side of the anchor locker. There isn't much room up in there, but perhaps you could preassemble the deck fill to a section of 1-1/2" Sealand Odor Safe hose using 5200 sealant; then push it through from above deck and hose clamp it to the top fitting on the water tank. It also might be possible to slide automotive spring tension type wire clamps up the hose from below held with a vise grip and pop off the vise grip when the clamp is in place.
I removed the access panel bulkhead in the V berth and installed plywood backing for an anchor well cleat through bolted on the 'inacesible' forward side of the anchor locker. There isn't much room up in there, but perhaps you could preassemble the deck fill to a section of 1-1/2" Sealand Odor Safe hose using 5200 sealant; then push it through from above deck and hose clamp it to the top fitting on the water tank. It also might be possible to slide automotive spring tension type wire clamps up the hose from below held with a vise grip and pop off the vise grip when the clamp is in place.
Can you get by?
S.Sauer, I do consider myself an "average" size man but can you actually make it pass the removable bulk head in the "V" berth to reach the front of the anchor locker? I suppose you can if you installed the backing plate but although I haven't removed the bulk head yet, I thought there wasn't enough room to pass forward. I'll have to take another look at that option. Thanks for the suggestion!
S.Sauer, I do consider myself an "average" size man but can you actually make it pass the removable bulk head in the "V" berth to reach the front of the anchor locker? I suppose you can if you installed the backing plate but although I haven't removed the bulk head yet, I thought there wasn't enough room to pass forward. I'll have to take another look at that option. Thanks for the suggestion!
Noooo to 5200 or ANY sealant!
No sealant should ever be used on any hose connection...only hose clamps. That's especially true in fresh water hose connections. Some sealants can damage hoses, others can be absorbed by it...creating a health hazard. And there's no need to use SeaLand Odor-Safe sanitation hose for a fresh water fill, either. Clean fresh water doesn't permeate hose...and besides, OdorSafe hose is too stiff to bend in the arc that's prob'ly necessary to keep the hose out of the way of the anchor rode.
No sealant should ever be used on any hose connection...only hose clamps. That's especially true in fresh water hose connections. Some sealants can damage hoses, others can be absorbed by it...creating a health hazard. And there's no need to use SeaLand Odor-Safe sanitation hose for a fresh water fill, either. Clean fresh water doesn't permeate hose...and besides, OdorSafe hose is too stiff to bend in the arc that's prob'ly necessary to keep the hose out of the way of the anchor rode.
Robby,...
I'm not surprised that no one ever thought you were to blame for a failed hose connection...it rarely happens immediately...it can take a year or more. Or, maybe never happen...it depends on conditions. Hot water is ok to warm hoses. However, I always found it more convenient to use a blow dryer--in fact, kept a small "travel" dryer in my toolbox when I was in business-- than messing with heating water or trying to find a place to put a pan of it in a tight space on a rocking boat.
I'm not surprised that no one ever thought you were to blame for a failed hose connection...it rarely happens immediately...it can take a year or more. Or, maybe never happen...it depends on conditions. Hot water is ok to warm hoses. However, I always found it more convenient to use a blow dryer--in fact, kept a small "travel" dryer in my toolbox when I was in business-- than messing with heating water or trying to find a place to put a pan of it in a tight space on a rocking boat.
How about running hose.....
Bob: What about running the hose behind the bulkhead, just forward of the settee. You could then mount the filler hose in the side deck (easier access too). The hose would be hidden by the bulkhead and then can be wrapped with some fabric to blend with the interior. The only place that it would be visible is when you are in the v-berth.
Bob: What about running the hose behind the bulkhead, just forward of the settee. You could then mount the filler hose in the side deck (easier access too). The hose would be hidden by the bulkhead and then can be wrapped with some fabric to blend with the interior. The only place that it would be visible is when you are in the v-berth.
Good suggestion
Good suggestions Steve and one of the ideas I've been considering. Going to the boat this week, which is hauled for the winter, and I'll be checking out the possibilities of all the ideas. I will have all winter to figure this one out!
Good suggestions Steve and one of the ideas I've been considering. Going to the boat this week, which is hauled for the winter, and I'll be checking out the possibilities of all the ideas. I will have all winter to figure this one out!
Clearance in front of anchor well
Response to Bob of Havree de Grace- Yes Bob,if you 1st remove the small plywood bulkhead in the V berth, there would seem to be room to get the 1-1/2" fill pipe down in front of the anchor well, but I don't see how you could also reach up in there to put on a standard hose clamp. If you 1st open up the inspection port in that bulkhead you will of course see the present fill pipe where it comes out of the bottom of the anchor well and the anchor well drain tube further forward. The other idea of moving the fill pipe further aft to the forward side of the bulkhead between the V berth and the main cabin would certainly be easier, but I would guess that you will need to remove part of the plywood platform in the V berth, under the cushion and over the water tank just to see where the fill hose connects. I kinda think I'll stay with removing the anchor line and cleaning out the anchor well every time I fill the water tank. I keep the anchor line coiled in a figure eight so it deploys easily and that makes it easy to lift out anyway. I also glued in a couple teak pieces on each side of the anchor well so the danforth sits on them and dosen't slide around in the well.
Response to Bob of Havree de Grace- Yes Bob,if you 1st remove the small plywood bulkhead in the V berth, there would seem to be room to get the 1-1/2" fill pipe down in front of the anchor well, but I don't see how you could also reach up in there to put on a standard hose clamp. If you 1st open up the inspection port in that bulkhead you will of course see the present fill pipe where it comes out of the bottom of the anchor well and the anchor well drain tube further forward. The other idea of moving the fill pipe further aft to the forward side of the bulkhead between the V berth and the main cabin would certainly be easier, but I would guess that you will need to remove part of the plywood platform in the V berth, under the cushion and over the water tank just to see where the fill hose connects. I kinda think I'll stay with removing the anchor line and cleaning out the anchor well every time I fill the water tank. I keep the anchor line coiled in a figure eight so it deploys easily and that makes it easy to lift out anyway. I also glued in a couple teak pieces on each side of the anchor well so the danforth sits on them and dosen't slide around in the well.
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