Is running the sink faucets the proper way to drain the system? While you are shocking the system with the chlorine solution, how do you keep the system under pressure?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
G
Greg Sampson
Peggy says.....
when shocking the system with the chlorine to run the pump with the faucets open for a little bit then shut the faucets off and the lines will remain charged....leave it like this for 3 hours and that should kill any bacteria in the lines. the whole she-bang is listed in her archives under freshwater maintenance.
when shocking the system with the chlorine to run the pump with the faucets open for a little bit then shut the faucets off and the lines will remain charged....leave it like this for 3 hours and that should kill any bacteria in the lines. the whole she-bang is listed in her archives under freshwater maintenance.
P
Peggie Hall/Headmistress
Yes, drain the tank through all the faucets...
You keep the system pressurized by leaving the water pump on and the faucets off.
You keep the system pressurized by leaving the water pump on and the faucets off.
P
Peggie Hall/Headmistress
Not archives, Greg...HM forum library.
on the forum homepage. A collection of articles that are permanently stored there.
on the forum homepage. A collection of articles that are permanently stored there.
J
Jim WIllis
I'm going off chlorine!
I now have a leak in my water system. The water drains into the bilges and ran the batteries down. There was a leak in the pump and I replaced that. ad put in new pipes (sealed with Silicone Peggy!). No leaks there anymore. Still the tank empties on its own. I fear that the tank (glassed in place) is leaking. A friend of mine also had a leak and put it down to using chlorox. It is highly corrosive even on "stainless" (as we all know you still get rusting on the welds). What made even more suspicious, when tightening the hose clamps one just snapped!. I had previously used clorox (hosed off of course) to wash out that area of the head/water system. An alternative method (that leaves no taste) is use of hydrogen peroxide (about a dollar a bottle). When my problems are fixed (and after one last shocking in the old way) I am going over completely to H2O2. Am I full of ....... or do other people have similar experiences. We all know that you don't use chlorox in the head for similar reasons (rotting the newoprene valves. Thanks ALW
I now have a leak in my water system. The water drains into the bilges and ran the batteries down. There was a leak in the pump and I replaced that. ad put in new pipes (sealed with Silicone Peggy!). No leaks there anymore. Still the tank empties on its own. I fear that the tank (glassed in place) is leaking. A friend of mine also had a leak and put it down to using chlorox. It is highly corrosive even on "stainless" (as we all know you still get rusting on the welds). What made even more suspicious, when tightening the hose clamps one just snapped!. I had previously used clorox (hosed off of course) to wash out that area of the head/water system. An alternative method (that leaves no taste) is use of hydrogen peroxide (about a dollar a bottle). When my problems are fixed (and after one last shocking in the old way) I am going over completely to H2O2. Am I full of ....... or do other people have similar experiences. We all know that you don't use chlorox in the head for similar reasons (rotting the newoprene valves. Thanks ALW
P
Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Jim, the effects of chlorine on a sound tank
aren't immediate, they're cumulative. Just carrying chlorinated water for years does FAR more damage than just an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment...adding bleach to each fill contributes to the problem. If your friend did that, I'd say, yes...that did contribute to his problem. It was also a waste of bleach...because you can't add enough, and still be able to use the water, to accomplish anything. The same is true of H2O2...an ounce or two in 50 gallons of water isn't even enough for the "critters" to notice, much less surrendur and die. However, an annual recommissioning according the directions in the "Fresh Water Maintenance" article in the HM forum reference library--which does call for bleach--won't harm the system, and SHOULD eliminate the need to add ANYthing to the tank with each fill. You've obviously bought an older boat (without a pre-purchase survey, I'll bet) and now you're finding out all its problems--corroded tanks and even corroded hose clamps. That's what neglect does. I also suspect your "fun" is only just beginning. You can bite the bullet and make all the repairs according to ABYC standards...or you can apply whatever "band-aids" are easiet. The first approach will give you years without problems...the second is a crap shoot.
aren't immediate, they're cumulative. Just carrying chlorinated water for years does FAR more damage than just an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment...adding bleach to each fill contributes to the problem. If your friend did that, I'd say, yes...that did contribute to his problem. It was also a waste of bleach...because you can't add enough, and still be able to use the water, to accomplish anything. The same is true of H2O2...an ounce or two in 50 gallons of water isn't even enough for the "critters" to notice, much less surrendur and die. However, an annual recommissioning according the directions in the "Fresh Water Maintenance" article in the HM forum reference library--which does call for bleach--won't harm the system, and SHOULD eliminate the need to add ANYthing to the tank with each fill. You've obviously bought an older boat (without a pre-purchase survey, I'll bet) and now you're finding out all its problems--corroded tanks and even corroded hose clamps. That's what neglect does. I also suspect your "fun" is only just beginning. You can bite the bullet and make all the repairs according to ABYC standards...or you can apply whatever "band-aids" are easiet. The first approach will give you years without problems...the second is a crap shoot.
D
Dave
chlorine
Chlorine is one of the most reactive elements. I have an old copy of a spring commissioning list from Soundings years old. I use it each spring. Put one gallon of bleach in each tank. Fill with water. Run through each faucet for a while. Close faucets. Let sit for 4 hours. Completely drain tanks, fill with fresh water, drain again, fill again drain again. Proceed with using tanks with no additives. Best regards dave
Chlorine is one of the most reactive elements. I have an old copy of a spring commissioning list from Soundings years old. I use it each spring. Put one gallon of bleach in each tank. Fill with water. Run through each faucet for a while. Close faucets. Let sit for 4 hours. Completely drain tanks, fill with fresh water, drain again, fill again drain again. Proceed with using tanks with no additives. Best regards dave
J
Jim WIllis
THe boat was almost new when I got it, but.....
I was living on the mainland from 94-99 and could only come over now and again to clean and move (did not have a permanent slip then). So-- I probably DID leave too much clorox in the tank. However, H202 is not so reactive on metal. I am really teed off about this becuase I now can't use the shower when I am down at the boat. Wish I knew better at the time. What about those neoprene liners? Jim W
I was living on the mainland from 94-99 and could only come over now and again to clean and move (did not have a permanent slip then). So-- I probably DID leave too much clorox in the tank. However, H202 is not so reactive on metal. I am really teed off about this becuase I now can't use the shower when I am down at the boat. Wish I knew better at the time. What about those neoprene liners? Jim W
P
Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Fwiw, the tank prob'ly would have failed
even if you hadn't left any water in it. Moisture/humidity manages to get under metal tanks and gets trapped, and with no one keeping an eye on it to notice dampness in that compartment, it turns the tank into a collander. Even happens on boats that aren't left sitting. However lack of use is FAR harder on everything on a boat--anything mechanical--than constant hard use...lubrication in motors settles, ceasing to protect the parts it's supposed to...hoses rot, hose clamps corrode...insulation on wiring cracks. It doesn't take but a few years of neglect/lack of use to turn a pristine boat into a project boat. That's the bad news...the good news is, you'll never learn as much about every inch of your boat and every system as you'll learn restoring her. Restoring Solitaire taught me more in 4 years about systems OTHER than plumbing than I'd learned in the previous 20!
even if you hadn't left any water in it. Moisture/humidity manages to get under metal tanks and gets trapped, and with no one keeping an eye on it to notice dampness in that compartment, it turns the tank into a collander. Even happens on boats that aren't left sitting. However lack of use is FAR harder on everything on a boat--anything mechanical--than constant hard use...lubrication in motors settles, ceasing to protect the parts it's supposed to...hoses rot, hose clamps corrode...insulation on wiring cracks. It doesn't take but a few years of neglect/lack of use to turn a pristine boat into a project boat. That's the bad news...the good news is, you'll never learn as much about every inch of your boat and every system as you'll learn restoring her. Restoring Solitaire taught me more in 4 years about systems OTHER than plumbing than I'd learned in the previous 20!
M
Mike Linstrom
More on this...
I contacted Hunter on this and they deferred to the manufacturer (of the pump presumeably). I contacted the manufacturer and their customer service department had no concerns with the use of chlorine bleach. I drained and treated my port tank with the chlorine bleach solution on Sunday for about 5 hours and flushed several times before filling it with the vinegar solution. I still have to do the stern tank. I'm sure the multiple flushes are very important but if you do that, it's hard to believe that such a low concentration of chlorine bleach could be a problem. I guess I'll find out if it is.
I contacted Hunter on this and they deferred to the manufacturer (of the pump presumeably). I contacted the manufacturer and their customer service department had no concerns with the use of chlorine bleach. I drained and treated my port tank with the chlorine bleach solution on Sunday for about 5 hours and flushed several times before filling it with the vinegar solution. I still have to do the stern tank. I'm sure the multiple flushes are very important but if you do that, it's hard to believe that such a low concentration of chlorine bleach could be a problem. I guess I'll find out if it is.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.