I'm in the process of re-bedding my port holes on my Pearson 28. I took one out to see what i'm working with and discovered that the screws were not fastening properly. My plans are to clamp the core and wood and use an epoxy to help secure the screws tighter. I plan on using a caulk with silicone to re-bed the hole but i'm baffle about the trim that fits around the port is there a gasket that fits there ? Looking for guidence in this project, first time doing it would love to save some bucks the yard seems a bit high. Thanks in advance.
Re-Bedding Port Hole
- Thread starter vbrunson
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This is not a difficult thing to do. I would, first, be certain what ports were used on your boat and, if they are still in manufacture, contact the company for diagrams/directions. Pearson used Bomar for awhile, but I wouldn't guess. Also, if you are bonding the sandwich in the openings, I would only use West System epoxy and plenty of clamps to provide even/uniform contact. If you go online, they have an excellent repair manual that should be required reading for any serious boater.They also have a helpful tech support if you call them directly. To rebed the ports, I would use marine silicone. It is far more tenacious than 5200, paintable and provides a good seal. I might get some argument here, but I use it on my sheet tracks, ports, anything metal. I have removed equipment after 20 years and the original bond was amazing. The only downside is that marine silicone kicks quickly, can be messy and is difficult to remove. If you plan on removing the port soon, use 5200. Otherwise, use marine silicone. Best, Ron
I've never used 3M5200, but from what I've read it is not the thing to use if you want to remove the part at any time in the future.
We hear a lot about adhesive quality to our sealants, almost implying the stronger the glue, the better the sealant. The sailing world seems hung up on bonding everything to everything. Yet most of the things we seal need little if any additional fastening power. Port lights are a good example. If (and that's an important "if".) the screws/bolts/fasteners are doing a good job of holding the port's frame in place consider an ordinary polysulfide sealant. It's easy to use, easy to correct mistakes, and if you decide next year you want a change it's easy to remove the part and start over.
Geoff
We hear a lot about adhesive quality to our sealants, almost implying the stronger the glue, the better the sealant. The sailing world seems hung up on bonding everything to everything. Yet most of the things we seal need little if any additional fastening power. Port lights are a good example. If (and that's an important "if".) the screws/bolts/fasteners are doing a good job of holding the port's frame in place consider an ordinary polysulfide sealant. It's easy to use, easy to correct mistakes, and if you decide next year you want a change it's easy to remove the part and start over.
Geoff
Geoff, With the advent of Antibond 2015 available through West Marine and other chandleries the issue of removal for parts bonded with 3M 5200 becomes moot. A two minute soaking removes old and new bonds alike. The issue of bonding with sealant is well known and practiced by offshore cruisers who discover that even well found boats leak. I suppose if you sail in protected waters your considerations are different. But, get out of the bay and you're in a different world. Best, Ron
That's interesting, Ron. I've heard of the antibond for 5200 but didn't realize it was so good as to work in a few minutes. That puts the ultimate adhesive in a whole new light.
Regarding the well found boats leaking, I guess I thought all boats leak.
You're right, I've not been "out of the bay" with only day sailing and a few charters in the Apostles so far. I hope to cruise the Great Lakes soon. Perhaps I have a lot to learn.
Geoff
Regarding the well found boats leaking, I guess I thought all boats leak.
You're right, I've not been "out of the bay" with only day sailing and a few charters in the Apostles so far. I hope to cruise the Great Lakes soon. Perhaps I have a lot to learn.
Geoff
Again with the 5200 and antibond. I begin to wonder if Ron sells the stuff.
Geoff is correct. Not only do many things on the boat not need the 'bond' the market implies but they need to be periodically removed. Silicone is the correct choice for most port light installs. The mechanical fasteners should do the job of holding it in place just fine.
There probably is no gasket for the trim ring. Just silicone. It can get messy so work carefully and have some rubbing alcohol on hand for quick clean up. It is not so caustic that it will damage either your house sides or the plastic of the port light.
Geoff is correct. Not only do many things on the boat not need the 'bond' the market implies but they need to be periodically removed. Silicone is the correct choice for most port light installs. The mechanical fasteners should do the job of holding it in place just fine.
There probably is no gasket for the trim ring. Just silicone. It can get messy so work carefully and have some rubbing alcohol on hand for quick clean up. It is not so caustic that it will damage either your house sides or the plastic of the port light.
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