I've decided to rebed my deck fittings this year, and I want to overdrill and epoxy fill fitting locations where the deck has a wood core. Accordingly, I'm trying to plan the work and the materials that I will need. My question is, are any of the deck fittings NOT in cored areas?
Re-Bedding Deck Fittings
- Thread starter Tony2945
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Deck fittings
Tony, As I read what you've written, I take it to mean that you'll remove the hardware and then drill out the holes to a larger size and then fill these oversized holes with epoxy so you can then re-drill the appropriate smaller sized hole for the hardware to be re-inserted into. Sorry about the wordiness, but if that's what you intend to do that would not be the correct way of doing it. The better way is to insert a bent "L" shaped piece of nail into a drill chuck and route out some of the wood core around the hole. Say you've got a i/4" hole, you'd route out say a 1/2"-5/8" of core material. You'll probably have to incremently step up the "L" shaped tools so you'll have room to get them inserted, starting with the smaller one and working up. Next, cover over the hole in the cabin with a tongue depressor wrapped in plastic or waxed paper and duct tape it over the hole. Now you can use a plastic syringe loaded with stucturally thickened epoxy (milled fibers) and fill the hole all around, over fill to help remove air, Wipe off excess, let cure,and drill new hole, x however many holes you're doing. This technique usually works easier with balsa core or soft or rotten core. It may be a little more difficult with good and dry plywood core. Good luck.
Tony, As I read what you've written, I take it to mean that you'll remove the hardware and then drill out the holes to a larger size and then fill these oversized holes with epoxy so you can then re-drill the appropriate smaller sized hole for the hardware to be re-inserted into. Sorry about the wordiness, but if that's what you intend to do that would not be the correct way of doing it. The better way is to insert a bent "L" shaped piece of nail into a drill chuck and route out some of the wood core around the hole. Say you've got a i/4" hole, you'd route out say a 1/2"-5/8" of core material. You'll probably have to incremently step up the "L" shaped tools so you'll have room to get them inserted, starting with the smaller one and working up. Next, cover over the hole in the cabin with a tongue depressor wrapped in plastic or waxed paper and duct tape it over the hole. Now you can use a plastic syringe loaded with stucturally thickened epoxy (milled fibers) and fill the hole all around, over fill to help remove air, Wipe off excess, let cure,and drill new hole, x however many holes you're doing. This technique usually works easier with balsa core or soft or rotten core. It may be a little more difficult with good and dry plywood core. Good luck.
Epoxy
Thanks Gerry. The procedure you described is exactly what I am planning to do. I'm just trying to get a handle on how many of the deck fittings are in cored areas.
Thanks Gerry. The procedure you described is exactly what I am planning to do. I'm just trying to get a handle on how many of the deck fittings are in cored areas.
On my catalina 22
on the bow where you attach the front forestay..amazingly enough there isn't a whole lot up there to be considered, "cored". I did add an aftermarket deal that secures it to the bow. I'm half asleep so excuse me if this is wrong.. it secures to the bow eye, inside, for the added strength... If your puttin hardware back on the boat, don't forget to use that 3m 4200 underneath. But you probably knew that....good luck
on the bow where you attach the front forestay..amazingly enough there isn't a whole lot up there to be considered, "cored". I did add an aftermarket deal that secures it to the bow. I'm half asleep so excuse me if this is wrong.. it secures to the bow eye, inside, for the added strength... If your puttin hardware back on the boat, don't forget to use that 3m 4200 underneath. But you probably knew that....good luck
Maybe not needed
I reseated all of my stanchoins and chainplates last year and intended to do as you describe. Turned out that only one chainplate had some rot and I did as you proposed. Every other fitting was dry and solid so I just reseated using 3M 4200 and moved on to other areas that really needed fixing. My 2 cents.
I reseated all of my stanchoins and chainplates last year and intended to do as you describe. Turned out that only one chainplate had some rot and I did as you proposed. Every other fitting was dry and solid so I just reseated using 3M 4200 and moved on to other areas that really needed fixing. My 2 cents.
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