Re-bed cat 30 windows

  • Thread starter Anonymous member 131
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Anonymous member 131

Well I bought myself a Cat 30. I Was really bumming after haveing a Cal 25 sold out from under me but found this 30 footer listed the same evening. I was told they sold the cal I'd put a deposit on but since got it back so they were not ripping me off. Went next day to see it and bought it. It leaks like a sive but im pretty handy and have actually made small wooden boats and am working on a wooden cradle miniture of a pram tender as we speak. However fiberglass is pretty new to me! Im learning though and quickly. I just dont always come up with the best ideas first time around. Photo one shows windows that look like they were tarred in! And they leak like it too.
The next photos show the removal of the window. I used a stainless steel spatula to get under the existing compounds and remove the window. As you can see on the second photo there was a lot of different compounds used including life caulk on the inside. Once off I used the dull edge of the spatula to scrape off the compounds on both the plexiglass and the fiberglass then sprayed easy off oven cleaner on it and let it set. While it set I setoff removing the rest of the windows on that side of the boat. I used paper towels and a plastic putty knife to remove the stuborn compounds and clean up the glass. Before I took the window off I had cut around the old compound and pulled it off so I could trace around the window with a sharppie so I could mask off the fiberglass before applying the DC 795 (Dow Corning) unfortunately the easy off oven cleaner was a little too good and removed the sharppie matks too. However, there were plenty of razor marks from previous applications and removals that I only had to follow those to mask the window. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MASK FIRST. You can doit without and I have but you better be immaculate with every move or you'll have a black mess to clean up trust me, I forgot to mask my second window. Apply your compound evenly enough to have at least a 1/4" of compound once you spread it out with a putty knife. Then spread it out evenly covering the entire fiberglass egde inside the masked edge. Next make sure your window is facing the correct way. Every window is cut differently make sure or redo a mess. Apply your window pressing it firmly in so that all the glass contacts the compound nice and evenly. DC 795 requires no screws so if you are applying new dont drill holes and use screws it is un needed. Another good winndow adhessive is 3M's VHB tape. But it is SOOOO unforgiving if you touch your window to it and it isnt right you ll be cutting new glass because it wont let go. However, if your like me and just rebedding windows with screws and holes already there go ahead and use them so your windows dont look a little wierd. Only tighten screws enough to insure a compltete seal do not tighten till they squezze all the compound out. Let the compound start to cure slightly but not completely or you'll be using a razzor blade too, to get your masking tape off. Carefully remove the tape. The compound will still smear so be careful. Once this is done continue to your next window. I did all eight of mine in one day and it was the first time I'd ever done a boat window in my life. Im 55 years old, I use a cane to walk I have seven fused disks in my neck and lower back and live with rhomatoid arthritus so dont tell it can't be done!
 

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Aug 3, 2009
109
Catalina 30 great neck, ny
I purchased a 1980 with leaky windows as well. The first time around for rebedding was done by the "book" and it was a real pain and mess. I was not so careful in rebedding some of them and they continued to leak. I ignored it and sailed the rest of the summer before I realized that this issue had to be addressed. Years ago I used a product called Mortite It was similat to butyl tape but much cheaper.
To make a long story very short, if you take your time and really clean the surfaces well this stuff is like magic and the clean up is easy. It stays pliable for years and there is no need to let it set up.

You can get this product at any hardware store.
 

jrowan

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Mar 5, 2011
1,294
O'Day 35 Severn River, Mobjack Bay, Va.
Mark, BTW, you port lights are not original. Someone replaced your original ports with plexiglass panels, as the original 1980 ones (like my 1980) are all glass with aluminum frames. The good part about them is that the real glass is tempered & it is very durable & will far outlast any plexiglass or Lexan replacements. The downside is that the aluminum frames suck & are basically designed to leak. You have probably noticed that the spacing between the outer cabin top & the inner fiberglass line varies in width, & is generally smaller then the minimum spacing between the inner & outer frames. They cannot be properly screwed down to compress the sealant that is applied, so they leak.

There are a LOT of posts on this site regarding leaking windows & how to rebed them. It seems to be the general consensus that the most successful way to rebed the ports & not have leaks is to use Butyl tape. The tape remains sticky & flexible for many years & helps to fill the gaps & can tolerate the stress of the cabin top stretching & movement while the sailboat is under load. There is quite a bit of flexing of the cabin sides due to the compression loads from the cabin top deck stepped mast. It makes any silicone caulking crack & leak. Good luck with your fellow 1980 C 30 & you will find this site to be a wealth of information specific to C-30's. If you look at my profile you can see an album of the refit I did to my C-30. Every C-30 is a little different & no two are identical, which always makes their mod interesting. Cheers, Jeremy.
 
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Anonymous member 131

Yes, thanks I know my windows are a refit done by a PO. Ifact they are crazing and will require replacement soon. I mentioned 3M's VHB tape in my post. That's the newest tape out and is much much better then any buttal tap avail. Today. As for the cavities between my windows the PO had filled them with all kinds of different compounds in the thought it would stop leaking, it won't. DC 795 is not brand new but few boaters are using it. I only provided the post to give other boaters a heads up n a new product that is more forgiving than VHB, ALOT less expesive and considerably easier to use.