Raymarine Wheel Pilot fix

[PGIJon]

I’ve been experiencing general steering issues which at least were due in part to the belt slipping on my RM SPX-5 wheel pilot. I did a lot of research and didn’t find a whole lot of help online. I finally watched a series of YouTube videos about the ST4000 model which shows that the internal screw posts/shafts break very easily. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhiowFXK6EU

After watching it, I decided to inspect my wheel drive unit. The SP-X on had 2 of these screw shafts. Looking at the attached pictures, they are located a locations B and D. After opening mine up, indeed the E shaft was broke in 3 pieces. These were easily put back together using gorilla glue.

I realized that 2 things. 1) When the engage lever (A) is set either in the engaged or disengaged position, the handle rises slightly to sit over a molded knob (the engaged one can been seen just above the “A” line’s arrow (when looking at the picture with the lever). When the levers edge rises above the raised area, causes the entire internal mechanism to be raised. Since the B screw is at the end of what becomes a lever, there has been enough stress over time that caused the post to break. 2) The “A” bolt used to look like E. As the lever raised the mechanism, it caused the E nylon to slip under the metal plate. Which cause the belt tensioner to become erratic.

I ended up coming up with the same fix as was presented on the video for B and I replaced the A screw which used to look like the “E” screw. With A not secured the metal plate is held in place and no longer allows E to slip out and now the with stronger through bolt B, the post will no longer be compromised. In addition the B bolt, helps keep the entire plate stable. The B bolt used to look like D.

All bolts are SS 5mm. Hope this helps someone. I'll be testing it this weekend.

Have a great/safe 4th!
-Jon

 

[Bob 04 H260]

Jon, thanks so much for the post. Mine is noisy. I want to check mine out, now I know what to look for and how to fix it. Let us know how it works when you sea trial it.

Bob

 

[PGIJon]

Bob.. Glad this could help. Let us know what you find...

It might also be helpful to others if you could post a picture of the bracket before the modification. I should have thought about this before I made the change.

We were unable to sail this weekend due to winds.. either too little or too strong. A few storms that registered 50+ knot gusts according to WindAlert.

-Jon

 

[PGIJon]

I've uploaded the 4000 Mk2 Wheel Drive Service Manual to the download section of SBO.

 

[rardiH36]

Thanks for posting your findings and solution!

In my case, after just a few years after it's installation, my ST4000+ clutch arm started to disengage on it's own ... and I only use the unit for short periods such as keeping the course while motoring when I might go forward to attach the fenders for docking.

Clutch adjustments per the manual proved to be just a short-term band-aid.

Taking the pieces apart, I noticed the OEM design weaknesses and I also added/reinforced some nuts/bolts to modify. The issue for me hasn't arisen since.

Unfortunately, I didn't think to record and photo my steps as you have done. So I have never been able to share when others have looked for a solution.

Your discoveries look to be more beneficial than what I did. So I've bookmarked this thread. If my fix fails at some point, I can refer to it if my unit starts getting cantankerous again in the future.

Again thanks.

 

[PGIJon]

My pleasure! So many have helped me, that I am glad that I can pass some info on the help others.

As a follow up... the clutch eccentric (A) cracked. I order a replacement... RM's MSRP for the piece of plastic is around $27 for a 30 cent item. Anyway. I think I am going to remove the bolt I placed through the clutch and go back with their shorter one. I think "B" and "D" may be the key to keeping everything working. That said if you continue to have problems I would first replace only the "B" screw and then only "D" if the plastic piece has cracked off.... I'll update here after I receive the new part and test it out.

-Jon

 

[mz4wheeler]

My pleasure! So many have helped me, that I am glad that I can pass some info on the help others.

Thanks for the post. I also have this exact same wheel drive, and I once "tried" to separate the two half's to inspect and lubricate. Is there some trick to do this? I used a screwdriver and twisted, but it didn't pop.

 

[PGIJon]

Mz4... no trick, it just comes apart.... take a look at the 4000 Mk2 Wheel Drive Service Manual that I uploaded in the download section of SBO. Here's the direct link. http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_45963682.pdf

 

[kloudie1]

Thanks for the post, Jon ! great info.. I have not had a problem yet with the drive, but I may pull it and strengthen the posts before they break ..

 

[PGIJon]

Claude, I would only do the B bolt to begin with. That appears to be the weakest link. -Jon

 

[Blitz]

Jon, thanks so much for the post. Mine is noisy. I want to check mine out, now I know what to look for and how to fix it. Let us know how it works when you sea trial it.

Bob

Aren't all the RM SPX 5's noisy?

 

[mz4wheeler]

Mz4... no trick, it just comes apart.... take a look at the 4000 Mk2 Wheel Drive Service Manual that I uploaded in the download section of SBO. Here's the direct link. http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_45963682.pdf

The photo in the manual looks like the older style St4000 wheel drive. Do I take a couple of screwdrivers and pry it apart?

 

[Maine Sail]

Aren't all the RM SPX 5's noisy?

Properly installed & adjusted not very noisy at all just motor noise. Poorly adjusted, full of salt and poorly centered on the wheel = noisy...

 

[PGIJon]

The photo in the manual looks like the older style St4000 wheel drive.

RM told me that the Wheel drive has not changed for a long time and that they still use the 4000 drive. It just unsnaps with using my hand... If you use a screwdriver, take it slowly and stop if you are not sure. -Jon

 

[PGIJon]

With a bit more experience under my belt... I received the MK2 Clutch Kit and installed it. I used the included bolt and did not use the "A" replacement bolt. I would only replace the B & D screws. And I would only replace them if the post has broken. -Jon

 

[seadaddler]

I recently replaced my belt on my 4000 MK II on my 2007 H-36 and no noise and works like new again.
Nick

 

[jssailem]

Nice Nick. You are fortunate. Kind of a Christmas gift to you.

 

[JoeWhite]

Sail La Vie | 1999 Catalina 36 MK II

mei1970.org

Here is how I fixed mine.

 

[hawk232]

Another potentially helpful snipit:
In all of my research for why the lever would disengage automatically i found one guy who said a RM tech told him to remove the two small "belts" (more like rubber bands that go over the "wheels") and lube the back of them very lightly. clearly you dont want to use too much lube as lube on the main belt would cause issues.

I pulled mine apart and nothing was broken so i figured what the heck. I used to ptfe bike chain lube and put just a little on the back of the "belts" and it fixed the disengaging and the unit is nearly whisper quite now!