Been replacing our unit with an S1 model. It comes with a rudder position sensor that we thought we could bypass but to no avail as the unit will not work without it. I should have known they would not include it for free. My question is has anyone installed a rudder position sensor on an h320 or similar and how was it installed? Do not look forward to getting where the steering quadrant is. Thanks for any info.
Raymarine S1 autopilot
- Thread starter Benny
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Benny, not sure if this will help, but this is the sensor on my 40.5. I sure don't understand what the deal is with the 4000's later editions having to have a rudder sensor. I had a 4000 on my Vision 32 for nine years and it did great without one.
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Rudder sensor
Not familiar with the Hunter, but installing the sensor on my 37 Seidelman was a real problem. Ended up installing it on the back side of the quadrant. Made an angle bracked from a heavy duty plastic tool box to mount the sensor. Basically I just cut off a corner of the bottom, and had a nice, strong 90 degree mount. Attached it to a bulkhead. You can mount the sensor in any orientation, upside down, reverse side forward, don't matter. If it reads backwards just switch the wires. I talked to Raymarine about the need to have the rudder sensor, and they told me the previous models worked much better with the sensor, but did not require it to be attached for them to work. But they got so tired of all the complaints about the unit wandering they just made it necessary that the sensor be attached. I can get a couple pics of the mount I made, and where it's mounted if it will help you out. Just let me know and I will get you a couple.
Not familiar with the Hunter, but installing the sensor on my 37 Seidelman was a real problem. Ended up installing it on the back side of the quadrant. Made an angle bracked from a heavy duty plastic tool box to mount the sensor. Basically I just cut off a corner of the bottom, and had a nice, strong 90 degree mount. Attached it to a bulkhead. You can mount the sensor in any orientation, upside down, reverse side forward, don't matter. If it reads backwards just switch the wires. I talked to Raymarine about the need to have the rudder sensor, and they told me the previous models worked much better with the sensor, but did not require it to be attached for them to work. But they got so tired of all the complaints about the unit wandering they just made it necessary that the sensor be attached. I can get a couple pics of the mount I made, and where it's mounted if it will help you out. Just let me know and I will get you a couple.
Rudder Sensor
I operated my 4000+ without a sensor for a few years and got frustrated because I had to change the tuning on different points of sail. I installed the sensor last summer and once reset, it has worked flawlessly. The pilot uses about half the wheel input now.. and holds course.. EXCELLENT. The picture is my installation in a 1985 Hunter 34.
I operated my 4000+ without a sensor for a few years and got frustrated because I had to change the tuning on different points of sail. I installed the sensor last summer and once reset, it has worked flawlessly. The pilot uses about half the wheel input now.. and holds course.. EXCELLENT. The picture is my installation in a 1985 Hunter 34.
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Benny,
I installed one on my H35 and it looks exactly like Rick D's. Note that this does not look anything like the configuration illustrated in the S1 installation manual - which simply would not fit on my boat. I thought about the geometry for a while and came to exactly the same conclusion as Rick D.
I installed one on my H35 and it looks exactly like Rick D's. Note that this does not look anything like the configuration illustrated in the S1 installation manual - which simply would not fit on my boat. I thought about the geometry for a while and came to exactly the same conclusion as Rick D.
When you finally do get the fitting on the quadrant I would recommend using 5200 to secure it there. Mine has fallen out several times, though mine was installed fromt he bottom of the quadrant pointing up, so a top down installation may not have that problem.
I made a small oak pad to mount the post on the quadrant - which I attached with a pair of SS bolts through holes drilled in the quadrant and used thread locker. I don't think that it is going anywhere for many years.
Just started to install an S-1 autopilot...
and am not looking forward to rigging up the rudder sensor. Claude, if you've got any more pics they would be greatly appreciated.
So far the wheelpilot ring drive is almost a straight forward replacement for the old ST-4000 ring (need to replace the wiring as the new one has a plug on it for easy removal). Mounting the fluxgate compass and computer box don't represent a problem, but that rudder sensor may be mind numbing!
and am not looking forward to rigging up the rudder sensor. Claude, if you've got any more pics they would be greatly appreciated.
So far the wheelpilot ring drive is almost a straight forward replacement for the old ST-4000 ring (need to replace the wiring as the new one has a plug on it for easy removal). Mounting the fluxgate compass and computer box don't represent a problem, but that rudder sensor may be mind numbing!
Thanks guys for the advice, those pictures are a great help. Rick, I thought I would need to lift that cockpit floor panel and your picture just confirms it. Thanks again.
The more inputs, the better the course keeping
that's why the sensor. Attached are photos of my quadrant pre-install & the block made for mounting plus the aluminum plate made to adapt the ball for the quadrant to the existing holes on the Edson quadrant. Have not taken any after photos, furgut. 1985 Pearson 34
that's why the sensor. Attached are photos of my quadrant pre-install & the block made for mounting plus the aluminum plate made to adapt the ball for the quadrant to the existing holes on the Edson quadrant. Have not taken any after photos, furgut. 1985 Pearson 34
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Benny
I think you have rack and pinion steering on your 326 and may look like my 36 with same type steering,I 'll try a photo for you.
Nick
I think you have rack and pinion steering on your 326 and may look like my 36 with same type steering,I 'll try a photo for you.
Nick
The rudder sensor is something really designed for newer boats where steering systems have wheels that do not turn very much from lock to lock. On older boats, when you turned the wheel from lock to lock, you often found there were several revolutions of the wheel. With many new boats, rotating the wheel from lock to lock has a relatively much shorter travel and so the sensor helps a great deal.
Too much room
Shorty, it should be illegal to have that much room around the quadrant. Wish I had half of that. I barely have clearance for the rod to the sensor.
Shorty, it should be illegal to have that much room around the quadrant. Wish I had half of that. I barely have clearance for the rod to the sensor.
Sure Dan.. I’ll include a couple of relevant ones.. You might have to loosen the quadrant and push it as far down as it will go. I had to cut the corner off the rudder stop mount to clear the threaded pushrod. I had to bend the pushrod slightly to make sure it cleared. I used a couple of washers to shim the base of the sensor to get really close to the angle of the rudderstock/Quadrant. I shimmed the little ball mount onto the quadrant as well. It will be necessary to check the clearance on the cable cover when the rudder is turned fully to port. Took a couple of hours of measuring and thinking before I drilled the first hole.. I think I got it pretty much mounted like the instructions say is optimal. It really has made the pilot work correctly. The trouble really was that the setup for the pilot could not go as low as 1.5 turns lock to lock as this boat has.
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Kloudie
Kloudie,
You may want to drop your idler wheels down another hole below the pedestal. From the picture it looks as if your steering cable enters from an angle above the groove in the quadrant. Perhaps it's just an optical illusion but I'd hate to see you chafe your steering cable on the edges of the quadrant..
For those who are running short on lock to lock capacity simply move the pivot ball closer to the rudder stock. I used the rudder stop as my bolt holes for the pivot ball mount then some aluminum stock to move the ball closer to the rudder shaft so it moved the RPS less on lock to lock and it could then handle the capacity of my rudder swings..
Kloudie,
You may want to drop your idler wheels down another hole below the pedestal. From the picture it looks as if your steering cable enters from an angle above the groove in the quadrant. Perhaps it's just an optical illusion but I'd hate to see you chafe your steering cable on the edges of the quadrant..
For those who are running short on lock to lock capacity simply move the pivot ball closer to the rudder stock. I used the rudder stop as my bolt holes for the pivot ball mount then some aluminum stock to move the ball closer to the rudder shaft so it moved the RPS less on lock to lock and it could then handle the capacity of my rudder swings..
Are you pushing your lock to lock and the RPS's range to close? You might want to leave a little room for movement on either end of the RPS's range. I have never had an RPS ball & socket come apart before and I too have let go of the wheel while backing and had it go hard over....
It's the Bene dealer installation. I need to take out the floor panel to clean out the pine needles and will see what can be done.
You may..
My guess is that you are right up against either the port or stbd range of the RPS. Does it pop of in both directions? If not then you may be able to loosen the set screws for the RPS head and twist the base just enough to get more range out of one side if it was not perfectly centered on the mark to begin with.
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