hi all iam hooking up a radome to a raymarine e-80 and am curious if anyone has cut the wireing harness and spliced it ? iam trying to get that big nobby end run thru the boat its just way to big. any suggestions ?
raymarine radar
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Runing wire
I ve never run wire for a radar set up.But Im sure it tells you in the maual some where not to cut the wire.This is what the manual always says.Yes you have to cut the wire to run it thru the boat neetly.What i like to do is set up all the parts and wire them above decks to get everything working then buy a smaall extension cable and cut it, and splice it and see how it works.If every thing is ok then i would cut the wire and run it thru the boat.I like to make the splice some where you can get to it. John
I ve never run wire for a radar set up.But Im sure it tells you in the maual some where not to cut the wire.This is what the manual always says.Yes you have to cut the wire to run it thru the boat neetly.What i like to do is set up all the parts and wire them above decks to get everything working then buy a smaall extension cable and cut it, and splice it and see how it works.If every thing is ok then i would cut the wire and run it thru the boat.I like to make the splice some where you can get to it. John
????
The big knobby end? The big knobby end plugs into the E-80. The Radome end of the harness has a plastic condom on it to make it easy to route. If the Radome is on the mast, you route from the display head, to the mast and up to the antenna, not try to force the display plug down from the mast and back to the display.
The big knobby end? The big knobby end plugs into the E-80. The Radome end of the harness has a plastic condom on it to make it easy to route. If the Radome is on the mast, you route from the display head, to the mast and up to the antenna, not try to force the display plug down from the mast and back to the display.
yes
i understand try to go from the e 80 to the radome but the end with the condon is a little big to get down my pedistal tube
i understand try to go from the e 80 to the radome but the end with the condon is a little big to get down my pedistal tube
you can cut it
my dealer (don't ask) cut the raymarine cable and reconnected it below the mast when he installed our raymarine system. It works fine, but make sure the splices are good and protected from moisture
my dealer (don't ask) cut the raymarine cable and reconnected it below the mast when he installed our raymarine system. It works fine, but make sure the splices are good and protected from moisture
Have a Plan for you layout
You can cut it and re-wire but maintain the shields. There are probably 2 wires with shields plus the general shield that runs around the whole wire bundle. The "shielded" wires carry low voltage signals that are easily interfered with. They will "look different" from the rest of the wires as they have an extra layer that looks like it could conduct electricity kinda like a coax or they are bundled separately with their own wire wrap. These shields should be hooked to the common boat ground (not the ground wire for the circuit, that is actually the equipment ground)(email me at roosaw@verizon.net if you have an inquiring mind an have to know the difference) The preferred way of doing the connections is a male-female waterproof quick connector but seadaddeler's way works too. Just make sure the connection is kept dry if you take the latter route. Digikey.com has every connector you could ever need and you can look on the inside of the factory plug and see a "J" number (J5,J8) molded into the plastic that will get you the right one to make it look like (and last like) a factory job. Good luck
You can cut it and re-wire but maintain the shields. There are probably 2 wires with shields plus the general shield that runs around the whole wire bundle. The "shielded" wires carry low voltage signals that are easily interfered with. They will "look different" from the rest of the wires as they have an extra layer that looks like it could conduct electricity kinda like a coax or they are bundled separately with their own wire wrap. These shields should be hooked to the common boat ground (not the ground wire for the circuit, that is actually the equipment ground)(email me at roosaw@verizon.net if you have an inquiring mind an have to know the difference) The preferred way of doing the connections is a male-female waterproof quick connector but seadaddeler's way works too. Just make sure the connection is kept dry if you take the latter route. Digikey.com has every connector you could ever need and you can look on the inside of the factory plug and see a "J" number (J5,J8) molded into the plastic that will get you the right one to make it look like (and last like) a factory job. Good luck
Running a radar cable
If you would rather not cut and splice, you might consider this. The thru-deck gland comes in several sizes, the largest of which is advertised for use with radar cables. When the time comes to unstep the mast, the cable is disconnected from the radar display and fed through the gland. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/46511/0/0/coax%20cable%20glands/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
If you would rather not cut and splice, you might consider this. The thru-deck gland comes in several sizes, the largest of which is advertised for use with radar cables. When the time comes to unstep the mast, the cable is disconnected from the radar display and fed through the gland. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/46511/0/0/coax%20cable%20glands/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
well..........
iam not to concerned with rasing or lowering the mast iam more concerned with running the wire thru the boat going up the mast is not really a problem either.does anyone have any experience with the extension cables ava. from raymarine ??
iam not to concerned with rasing or lowering the mast iam more concerned with running the wire thru the boat going up the mast is not really a problem either.does anyone have any experience with the extension cables ava. from raymarine ??
Cutting Radar Cable-No Problem!
Raymarine (and the expert giving the Radar Course that I took), emphasize that changing the length of the cable would require a "recalibration" of the radar unit, (in my cae a C-80 with a 2Kw Dome); but a proper slice using a bus in a protected area, works fine with no change in cable length. Good Luck, Barry S/V "Breakaway"
Raymarine (and the expert giving the Radar Course that I took), emphasize that changing the length of the cable would require a "recalibration" of the radar unit, (in my cae a C-80 with a 2Kw Dome); but a proper slice using a bus in a protected area, works fine with no change in cable length. Good Luck, Barry S/V "Breakaway"
Raymarine cabling
Interesting, My Raymarine manual says you can add an extension cable (25') with no modification/recal. I think this is one of those "well you can do it but we would sure like to help you get a factory solution and lighten your wallet" kind of things. While a buss splice will work the preferred method is a multi wire quick connect plug. You can get most anything you need from Digikey.com and since you are cutting and routing anyway why not make the sucker waterproof while you are at it? You spent $x,000 for the thing why not splurge and get a plug for $15. Makes your installation a little more flexible too as you can put the connection where you want instead of only in a dry place. Don't forget to handle the shielded wires correctly. Adding an extension can leave you more susceptible to electrical noise and shielding is key to making that not be a problem. With a buss arrangement you will need a terminal for all the shield ground which should not go to the negative (0 volts) current carrying return (ground) but to the non-current carrying boat ground. The current carrying ground is at 0 volts but has a magnetic field around it and that can interact with the low voltage signals to yield some interesting results.
Interesting, My Raymarine manual says you can add an extension cable (25') with no modification/recal. I think this is one of those "well you can do it but we would sure like to help you get a factory solution and lighten your wallet" kind of things. While a buss splice will work the preferred method is a multi wire quick connect plug. You can get most anything you need from Digikey.com and since you are cutting and routing anyway why not make the sucker waterproof while you are at it? You spent $x,000 for the thing why not splurge and get a plug for $15. Makes your installation a little more flexible too as you can put the connection where you want instead of only in a dry place. Don't forget to handle the shielded wires correctly. Adding an extension can leave you more susceptible to electrical noise and shielding is key to making that not be a problem. With a buss arrangement you will need a terminal for all the shield ground which should not go to the negative (0 volts) current carrying return (ground) but to the non-current carrying boat ground. The current carrying ground is at 0 volts but has a magnetic field around it and that can interact with the low voltage signals to yield some interesting results.
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