Thru hull
Ron, a leak at the pipe stub is a dangerous problem which should be delt with right away. I assume that the crack is inside the hull on the goop they plastered around the pipe stub. If its in the hull itself you have an even bigger problem. I'm repairing / replaceing all my gate valves with bronze thru hulls and sea cocks. I've started on the head inlet. When I tried to unscrew the gate valve the whole pipe stub came out. When it warms up a little I'll grind off the goop on the inside of the hull then cut a hole through from the uotside using a 1 1/8 inch hole saw. put the thru hull in with a generous dollop of 4200 an screw the thru hull nut down tight on the inside. Then make a backing block big enough to take the flange of the Seacock, drill a pilot hole through the center of the block and rout a hollow to fit over the nut on . I have a circle cutting rig for my router that did the job. Use a sander to shape the bottom of the block to the curve of the hull then give the block two coats of penetrating epoxy. Glue it down with a layer of 4200 and screw on the seacock. If you use a good thick coat of 4200 you can probably get the handle of the seacock in the right position. Leave about an eighth of a turn, then snug it down when the 4200 is solid (3-5 days). Use 4200 instead of 5200 or you will not be able to take it apart again. The seacock flange will have bolt holes. Its up to you whether or not to put bolts (and bolt holes) in. Remember to put the nuts on the inside and countersink for the heads on the outside. If you are doing the engine inlet you should use a strainer type thru hull and you will have to put the bolts in. Good luck. When I finish mine I'll do a photo collection and post it for others to see. Cheers, Garry
