Raritan PHII leak at Dry/Flush

[JRT]

I've noticed some dripping water from the underside forward edge of the dry/flush switch. I know this head has not received any PM in the past several years and I did replace the joker valve already which corrected the backflow to the head I was seeing. I see this rebuild kit below and see several videos on rebuilding the pump, is this the right approach and parts? I just did a pump out last week so while empty I'd like to get this one fixed.

Amazon.com : Raritan PHII & PHEII Repair Kit June 1992 to Present - 1200C Pump : Boating Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Raritan PHII & PHEII Repair Kit June 1992 to Present - 1200C Pump : Boating Equipment : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[justsomeguy]

It's easy to overtorque the cap on the valve/switch, displacing the gasket.

Try re-seating with a bit of SuperLube.

 

[JRT]

So will removing this cause water to come in? Dumb question, but after the 'gusher' surprise during my joker valve replacement I'm asking first.

 

[Stu Jackson]

John, do you have the manual? If not, it's on the Raritan website. If you check it out, there is a list of the parts in the "rebuild" kit that are simply not required for a rebuild. I looked up the three things one needs (IIRC, joker valve, flapper valve and pump piston ring) and ordered them separately from right here on sbo for a lot less $$$. I also followed the maintenance section and used SuperLube on where the piston goes into the pump body.

 

[JRT]

Got it! Very helpful @Stu Jackson

I've study it several times and still just want to ask, don't want any surprises

 

[jssailem]

Stu has you heading in the right direction. I also found Peggie’s book to be helpful as I dealt with my on head Issues.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

So will removing this cause water to come in?

Water will come in only if the knob is turned to "flush."

do you have the manual? If not, it's on the Raritan website. If you check it out, there is a list of the parts in the "rebuild" kit that are simply not required for a rebuild.

If they weren't needed , they wouldn't be in the kit. The PHII only needs a rebuild every 5-6 years and in that length of time all the parts in it wear at least a bit even if that wear isn't obvious to you. Just replacing the obvious rubber bits is like replacing only a quart of the oil in an engine and skipping the filter replacement because it still looks fine to you. If you want the toilet to keep working to factory spec for up to 20 years, keep it well lubricated, replace the joker valve annually (if you don't know why that's essential to the toilet's performance, read "joker valve 101" in my book or find it in the archives here) and the pump completely rebuilt every 5-6 years. Or you can settle for performance that's deteriorating so gradually that you won't notice that it's only half as efficient as it was when you bought it.

--Peggie

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

It's easy to overtorque the cap on the valve/switch, displacing the gasket.

Try re-seating with a bit of SuperLube.

Noooooo
The Superlube should only be used on the piston. If you use it on that gasket it will be even more prone to displace the gasket when you tighten. Ask me how I know. Superlube is very difficult to remove from rubber gaskets completely, so they are no longer slippery, even using solvents.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

And btw...why would you have a "gusher surprise" changing a joker valve? That line only goes to the inlet fitting at the top of your tank, so there might be a little run back if the toilet discharge line runs uphill ( if it's more than a little, you need to learn to use dry bowl to do more than just push the last bit of water out of the bowl),--and you should always put a plastic kitchen can bag under any fitting before you disconnect it to catch any drips.....but I can't think of anything but a pressurized tank--which would be caused by blocked tank vent--that would create a gusher when you disconnect the discharge fitting from the pump.
--Peggie

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

The Superlube should only be used on the piston.

On the piston??? Raritan uses SuperLube thick teflon/silicon grease in their manual toilets. They taught me how to use it:
To lube a PHII, lift the pump off the base (requires removing the screws that hold it on the base)...stick tube nozzle into the pump and give it a healthy squirt--at least a tablespoon. Replace the pump on the base. Pump the toilet a few times to spread it all over the inside of the pump CYLINDER ('cuz it's cylinder that the seals, o-rings etc rub against when the toilet is pumped)...and you're done. Do this every spring as part of recommissioning and your toilet shouldn't need any more lubing for the entire season.

--Peggie

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

On the piston??? Raritan uses SuperLube thick teflon/silicon grease in their manual toilets. They taught me how to use it:
To lube a PHII, lift the pump off the base (requires removing the screws that hold it on the base)...stick tube nozzle into the pump and give it a healthy squirt--at least a tablespoon. Replace the pump on the base. Pump the toilet a few times to spread it all over the inside of the pump CYLINDER ('cuz it's cylinder that the seals, o-rings etc rub against when the toilet is pumped)...and you're done. Do this every spring as part of recommissioning and your toilet shouldn't need any more lubing for the entire season.

--Peggie

Yes, inside the cylinder where the pump piston contacts the cylinder walls. After I remove that pump from the base I squeeze the superlube onto the fingers of a gloved hand, and wipe it around inside. (I don't think pumping by itself would give even coverage unless (maybe if) you spin the pump handle while doing it).
It's a messy job regardless, as there's always some residual effluent spillage involved.

PS I should have said "in" the piston.

 

[JRT]

Thanks @Peggie Hall HeadMistress my "gusher" was because I did not dry pump enough and the 310 does run uphill. It was a learning experience. Since I have no records for a rebuild for 5+ years it is due. Overall ot has funtioned very well since joker valve replacement, just a leak under the switch for dry/flush.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Yes, inside the cylinder where the pump piston contacts the cylinder walls.

Ahhhhh Larry me darllin'....the piston never comes in contact with anything...it's the stuff ON the piston that does. And why are you smearing the grease around it all with your fingers instead of just squirting it into the pump? That's how Raritan taught me to do it, so it must work...and it's whole lot easier!

I'm trying to visualize how someone would spin the pump handle on a PHII. Perhaps you could post a video?

--Peggie

 

[Sefuller]

There's a video of a PHii rebuild on YouTube...

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Ahhhhh Larry me darllin'....the piston never comes in contact with anything...it's the stuff ON the piston that does. And why are you smearing the grease around it all with your fingers instead of just squirting it into the pump? That's how Raritan taught me to do it, so it must work...and it's whole lot easier!

I'm trying to visualize how someone would spin the pump handle on a PHII. Perhaps you could post a video?

--Peggie

Maybe I'm having a problem with terminology. By "piston" I meant the underside of PN# 1212w assy. Yes, you can't spin the handle. When I wrote that hypothetical statement I wasn't thinking about the handle on this unit. (I have owned other heads that have a T handle and was confused in the moment I wrote it.) Anyway, feel free to critique me further, I've already gone as far down this rabbit hole as possible

 

[Tally Ho]

I rebuilt my PHII in the spring, I used the kit since I had no idea how long it had been since the head had any maintenance. There is a great video some made rebuilding his on his dining room table. I don’t recall who made the video, but it was really well done and helpful.

Greg

 

[justsomeguy]

Noooooo
The Superlube should only be used on the piston. If you use it on that gasket it will be even more prone to displace the gasket when you tighten.

Hmm. Mine doesn't leak, even with a light lubing.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I don’t recall who made the video, but it was really well done and helpful.

Yup.

Not hard to find, searched Raritan PHII rebuild, good stuff. Carefully look and see what parts you really need, it ain't the whole kit mostly.

 

[JRT]

I found it and watched it. Nicely done fpr sure

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Maybe I'm having a problem with terminology. By "piston" I meant the underside of PN# 1212w assy.

I may be the one having trouble with terminology...you're referring to only the "flush/dry" knob and I thought you were referring to the piston rod in the pump. You wouldn't have been the first person who thought that's what needs lubrication.

Raritan includes a one-use tube of the SuperLube grease in their rebuild kits. It doesn't create any problems with the gaskets and other rubber parts in the pump, so I can't imagine that it would cause a problem with the gasket in the dry/flush assembly. SuperLube does have a full line of lubricants...the thick grease in a tube is the only one that should be used to lube toilets. It's also good to lube winches, y-valves and seacocks, btw. A tube that'll last for years is available from Ace Hardware and Home Depot...about $6.95 last time I checked the price.

And btw...when rebuilding the pump, taking a photo of each part before you remove it can help you make sure to orient the new one correctly.

--Peggie