This is a tough one but just maybe someone has the answer. My PH 11, post '92, will discharge water from the bowl but will not allow water from the seacock in. Have verified water coming through seacock thru inlet hose to flush/dry chamber. Have verified flush/dry selector is in proper position with a 1/4 turn. Chamber fills with seawater. Ball and spring replaced and properly oriented. Have completely disassembled pump and no obstructions. All seals and gaskets replaced. Isolated vented loop system to check for issues there. No problems. Removed outlet hose from pump and verified no water going thru pump. Any ideas?
Raritan PH11
- Thread starter rjarrell
- Start date
I've been through everything pertaining to the PHII in my files, and you've either done everything recommended to solve this problem or it's usually the result of improper winterizing (unlikely in your location, but if you've just acquired the boat from a location that made it necessary to winterize it, I'll post that info). There is a list of causes and cures on page 7 in the owners manual PH II Owner’s Manual that might include something you haven't tried.
You've replaced everything in the pump, but if you used the wrong kit, that might be the problem. There are two kits for the PHII...the PRE 6/92 version needs kit PHIIRK...the POST 6/92 version needs kit PHIIRKC. There are just enough parts in each that aren't interchangeable that this could be the problem.
If none of the above, it's time to talk to Raritan. My go-to guy since Vic Willman retired is Mac McCoy. He's in their FL plant...his phone number is 954-525-0378
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
You've replaced everything in the pump, but if you used the wrong kit, that might be the problem. There are two kits for the PHII...the PRE 6/92 version needs kit PHIIRK...the POST 6/92 version needs kit PHIIRKC. There are just enough parts in each that aren't interchangeable that this could be the problem.
If none of the above, it's time to talk to Raritan. My go-to guy since Vic Willman retired is Mac McCoy. He's in their FL plant...his phone number is 954-525-0378
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
Have spoken with Matt and someone in New Jersey and neither can figure it out. Not opposed to buying new but after all I have done not sure that will fix it. BTW, original owner and never winterized. Used correct rebuild kit.
I didn't know it was possible to stump Mac! You said, Removed outlet hose from pump and verified no water going thru pump.
Not going THROUGH the pump....Are you 100% certain that no water is going INTO the pump--the dry/flush valve housing--at all? If its getting TO the pump, but no further, there has to be a blockage between the inlet fitting and the pump...which could be in the dry/flush housing. You're rotating the dry/flush knob...but are you sure the knob is rotating the "barrel?"
--Peggie
Not going THROUGH the pump....Are you 100% certain that no water is going INTO the pump--the dry/flush valve housing--at all? If its getting TO the pump, but no further, there has to be a blockage between the inlet fitting and the pump...which could be in the dry/flush housing. You're rotating the dry/flush knob...but are you sure the knob is rotating the "barrel?"
--Peggie
I am just now installing the conversion kit. There are a couple of simple items listed there that MAC may have assumed were correct? Check the installation of replacement parts section, Fig #2 and Fig#3 to make sure the flapper is oriented correctly (hinge towards bowl) and Fig#3 valve handle position is correct for Dry/Flush selector.
Do you have any anti-siphon loops in the installation? Could one of those be creating an issue?
Do you have any anti-siphon loops in the installation? Could one of those be creating an issue?
This may or not be relevant, but I just bought a new pump assembly and there was an instruction sheet with it that had a diagram with the very specific orientation of the barrel in it's relationship to the position of the turning knob. It was confusing at first, but after looking at it awhile it made sense what they were trying to show.
Definitely no water into pump housing. Checked orifice between dryflush chamber and pump chamber. No obstructions. Just don't understand if water fills dry/flush chamber whit doesn't pass into pump housing
Aarrrgh!
Aarrrgh!
That doesn't make any sense to me either...UNLESS something is preventing the knob from rotating the "barrel" in the dry/flush housing, leaving it stuck in the dry mode (the knob is turning but the "barrel" isn't). Or maybe when you had everything apart you didn't orient it correctly when you put it back? Those are pretty much the only remaining possibilities.
How old is the toilet?
--Peggie
How old is the toilet?
--Peggie
Just ran the ideas in my last post by Mac...he tells me it's impossible, that in a 12 yr old toilet, a worn out dry/flush housing (most likely due to failure to keep the system well lubricated) is the only possibility. He suggested replacing just the pump HOUSING 'cuz it's the least expensive option. After some conversation, we agreed that that it would be best to replace the pump and just keep all the parts you've replaced in your existing pump as spares. You need just a "pump assembly," nothing else.
Dave (sbo.com store) should be able to get one for you at a reasonable price.
--Peggie
Dave (sbo.com store) should be able to get one for you at a reasonable price.
--Peggie
Problem solved. The dry/flush barrell was installed 90 degrees out of phase. The flush position blocked the orifice between the chambers. Cannot believe I didn't catch that sooner. Thanks so much for all your help. I was only able to attempt repair because I read your book . Thanks again
--Peggie[/QUOTE]
yt?
--Peggie[/QUOTE]
yt?
Oh and BTW I isolated the barrel by removing it, sealing the chamber by hand, opening the seacock and water moved into the piston chamber. I knew then it was a problem with the barrel.