Raritan PH II Lubrication Question

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PKFK

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Jul 12, 2004
206
Hunter 36 Ottawa
Hi -

I have a question regarding lubing the Raritan head - on my old Jabsco I just unscrewed the hex nut at the top of the pump and could pull the whole plunger assembly out to lube it with Superlube once a year.

On the new Raritan - it does not look possible to do this since the hole under the nut at the top (PART # 1214) is small.

Can those who know please advise - what should I take apart to lube the head properly ?
(I think I should just unscrew part 1214, lift it up a bit, and squirt some Superlube, and replace part 1214 again.) Also put a bit of Superlube on the metal rod 1212W assembly.

Is this correct ?

......or do I need to take the whole 1200CW assembly off the base and lube the cylinder from below (that would be a PITA)....

Paul
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,950
- - LIttle Rock
It's not that big a PITA...

In fact, it's really no harder than it was to lube your Jabsco, except you lube the PH II from the bottom.

Removing the pump (part 1200CW) from the base only requires removing four screws, then tipping the pump housing over far enough to stick the nozzle of the grease tube into it...give it a healthy squirt...then remount the pump. Pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the pump...you're done.

Dunno why you'd bother to lube the 1212W metal shaft...only things that rub against each other need any lubrication, and it doesn't rub against anything.
 

PKFK

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Jul 12, 2004
206
Hunter 36 Ottawa
Hi Peggy - thanks as always for your advice and clarifications.

The reason I was lubing the piston rod was straight from the PH II owners manual:

"Super Lube applied to the piston rod will prolong the life of the Piston Shaft Seal. This should be done every spring and fall or more regularly if the head is used frequently"

The reason I was not thrilled to take the 4 bolts out and lube the thing from the bottom was twofold :

- Last time I took the similar assembly apart on a Jabsco, the darn flapper valve leaked upon reassembly (the gasket around the edge) - I was told that they don't always seal after being in place for a while...and.....

- This is the unit that I retrofited to a PH II LBA - and had a bear of a time with the flange seal on the output assembly due to the new Trident 102 sanitation hose putting a strain on it due to the curve in the hose coming up thru the floor......so tipping the pump over will likely be a grief-laden procedure. :eek: I can imagine problems getting everything nicely lined up and sealed again with the output hose connected.

So....guess it's a no-go to lube from the top. Rats. 10 minute job (in boat time) will likely take 90 minutes.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,950
- - LIttle Rock
As long as you'd need to remove the pump from the base...

This would be an excellent time to install the inline radius fitting that will relieve the strain caused by the curve in the hose.

And as for this one: "- Last time I took the similar assembly apart on a Jabsco, the darn flapper valve leaked upon reassembly (the gasket around the edge) - I was told that they don't always seal after being in place for a while...and....."

That's a Jabsco...your toilet is a Raritan. However, the joker valve in any toilet should be replaced at least every two years anyway...which takes care of that concern.

This job may indeed take 90 minutes this time...but at least 70 minutes will be spent installing the inline radius fitting and a new joker valve...only 15 needed to lube the head.

There's a solution to every problem...trouble is, too many people would rather live with the problems than spend the small amount of time it takes to solve each one.


 

PKFK

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Jul 12, 2004
206
Hunter 36 Ottawa
This would be an excellent time to install the inline radius fitting that will relieve the strain caused by the curve in the hose.
You mentioned the mythical "inline radius fitting" before as well - I cranked that phrase into the SBO store search and got nothing.
If I GOOGLE it now - it comes up with 2 hits - one for your reference above, and one from another posting you made in 2008, also recommending the same piece of plumbing gear.
Sorry to keep asking questions - but this "inline radius fitting" seems to be available only in the Unicorn department at both my local stores, as well as online.
Can you please give a link as to where I might find one of these ?
Thanks !!!
Paul
P.S. - the new Raritan head is pretty impressive - it -um - ahem - has no problems "digesting" whatever we deposit into it. The pump mechanisim seems to be quite powerful compared to the Jabsco.
(BTW - the owners manual sez it does not need "Special" (overpriced marine) toilet tissue - haven't tried non-marine TP yet - but will do the test recommended in your book on a more economical brand and likely switch).
 
Oct 2, 2007
131
- - Millville, NJ
You can get them at any Home Depot - NOT in the plumbing department, but in the electrical department. They use the long radiused sweeped elbows for electrical conduit, in gray PVC. They'll work just as well in a plumbing application.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,950
- - LIttle Rock
This is the marine source

SeaLand fittings

These are component fittings. Scroll all the way to the bottom of the page to see the drawings of each set. The ones you're looking for are called street ells.

However, the only components you really need from SeaLand are the hose connectors that you don't get with the ones at the hardware store.
 

PKFK

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Jul 12, 2004
206
Hunter 36 Ottawa
Thanks again Peggy and Head Master !!

Phew - I *never* would have decoded "street ells" from "inline radius fitting".....and heading to the electical department for a plumbing part just makes my head hurt.

I appreciate the help and info.

FWIW I purchased all the stuff for thiis project - PH II LBA, Hoses, and new Tank all from the SBO store. I would encourage others who are doing these projects and getting help from this forum to try and buy your stuff from the SBO store....

Paul
 
Oct 2, 2007
131
- - Millville, NJ
PKFK, at the present time, I'm pretty sure that the Raritan PHII and PHC (both models use the exact same pump) have the largest capacity pump of any manual toilet currently in production - other than the Baby Blake, made in the UK and costing upwards of $2500.00 here in the U.S. The Blake/Lavac, manually operated vacuum toilet also has a pretty high capacity pump, but again it's manufactured outside the U.S. and parts for it are difficult to find. The PHII and PHC on the other hand, have parts readily available just about anywhere in the U.S. (via UPS) and reasonably available in most of the industrialized countries of the world. Raritan ships replacement parts and spares all over the world just about every day.
 
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