After much help from these forums - particularly the Head Mistress and Mainesail - we installed the Raritan Sea Era electric head in our MKIII and changed out all the hoses in the process. The head was +/- $500 online and electrical wire, fuses, hoses and beer was another $200.
To allow room for trimming, I definitely needed 20 feet of #6 awg duplex wire (per Raritan) for the run from the panel, under the battery box, to port under the front of the engine and forward inboard of the holding tank to the head bulkhead. I used a flexible plumber's fish to run the wire. I connected the #6 wire to two terminal posts mounted on the head bulkhead. The head #14 awg wires were connected to those terminals as well. On the panel end, I connected the ground to an open post on the buss bar and the positive end directly to the #1 position (house side) of the battery switch via a 25 amp Maxifuse holder.
So, I do not have a separate "On/Off" switch for the head yet. I need to figure out how to set a panel- mounted switch that would connect a #6 wire through a 25 amp breaker to the battery switch. I'm thinking it would be better to install a separate "On/Off" switch for the head away from the panel.
The flexibility to rotate the head motor 90 degrees was a helpful feature so I did not have to modify the platform. The head is angled away from the wall to match the sink counter line so no banged up elbows. The larger seat is very comfortable. I used the existing hose holes in the bulkheads to run my new hoses while avoiding any crimping. The Raritan hose fittings can be rotated which helps fit the unit cleanly. I also installed a filter on the fresh water hose at the sea cock. The electric button was easy to install (it's the same as your starting switch) and all the wires exit the head through the hose openings to the terminal posts. The photos show I have yet to plug the old Jabasco bolt holes in the floor. Both units use 5/8" lag bolts to anchor the head to the deck. The unit works flawlessly. The Admiral is happy!
Thanks for everyone's help. Tim Prouty
To allow room for trimming, I definitely needed 20 feet of #6 awg duplex wire (per Raritan) for the run from the panel, under the battery box, to port under the front of the engine and forward inboard of the holding tank to the head bulkhead. I used a flexible plumber's fish to run the wire. I connected the #6 wire to two terminal posts mounted on the head bulkhead. The head #14 awg wires were connected to those terminals as well. On the panel end, I connected the ground to an open post on the buss bar and the positive end directly to the #1 position (house side) of the battery switch via a 25 amp Maxifuse holder.
So, I do not have a separate "On/Off" switch for the head yet. I need to figure out how to set a panel- mounted switch that would connect a #6 wire through a 25 amp breaker to the battery switch. I'm thinking it would be better to install a separate "On/Off" switch for the head away from the panel.
The flexibility to rotate the head motor 90 degrees was a helpful feature so I did not have to modify the platform. The head is angled away from the wall to match the sink counter line so no banged up elbows. The larger seat is very comfortable. I used the existing hose holes in the bulkheads to run my new hoses while avoiding any crimping. The Raritan hose fittings can be rotated which helps fit the unit cleanly. I also installed a filter on the fresh water hose at the sea cock. The electric button was easy to install (it's the same as your starting switch) and all the wires exit the head through the hose openings to the terminal posts. The photos show I have yet to plug the old Jabasco bolt holes in the floor. Both units use 5/8" lag bolts to anchor the head to the deck. The unit works flawlessly. The Admiral is happy!
Thanks for everyone's help. Tim Prouty
