Rardi, about that Rustoleum.

[Ed Schenck]

I plan to bring my Edson pedestal home for refurbishing. The "silver" extension on yours is painted? I'll use some Perfection for the rest. But I was considering having that binnacle base chromed.

And about painting the teak cockpit trim. What final color mix do you recommend after having seen some time pass with yours? Lowes only stocks two colors so I will have to find a supplier. Hopefully I will not need more than two colors!

 

[Steve Dion]

Ed:

Have you considered Powder Coating?

 

[H33CRich]

Ed:

Have you considered Powder Coating?

Powder coat! Yes! I know this was meant for Ed, but I highly recommend it. When I refurbished my T26, rather than have the life line hardware replaced (stanchion bases, t connectors, angle connectors, etc..., plus all of my aluminum cleats), I had them powder coated by a local guy (http://www.powtekpowdercoatings.com/). They turned out great. I had 22 pieces done for about $220. The white powder coat I used came out almost to an exact match for the Oyster White Awlgrip I painted the topside with. Aluminum is hard to do though. When the pieces go into the oven, the Aluminum cleats for some reason emitted gases which cause some bubbles to form on the top surface of the cleat; even after 3 recoats. Other than that, everything else came out perfectly. The durability of powder coat ranks up there with Awlgrip or better.

 

[Ed Schenck]

No, powder coating never entered my mind. Would I have to completely disassemble the pedestal, just give them a bare tower? And then there would be the cost compared to all that paint sitting on the basement shelf. Turns out I would not have any shipping costs as there is a place up the road: http://www.akro-milscustom.com/powder_coating.html

 

[Steve Dion]

Ed: If the shop knows what they are doing and it is properly preped it will look as good as new (maybe better). I had this done on an old tube bumper on a Nissan pickup and it looked good after many years.

Be sure to use some caulking in the screw holes when re-mounting to prevent the surface from cracking. It will also help with the leaks. This would be a good place to use butyl.

 

[rardiH36]

Hi Ed:

So you actually thinking of doing the Hammered finish thing on the worn winch pads as a first shot before replacing them with starboard? Definitely worth a try!

I am reluctant to recommend a color. As you know, currently I have a custom mixed green. But rather than for just a one-off location, it is repeated as an overall color scheme several places on the boat's exterior -- port frames, winch pads, hatch frames, winch pads, binnacle, companion way hatches and anchor. (It even covers up the factory puke green/yellow paint at the base of my profurl jib furler.)

Using this color for the winch pads only I think would result in an odd-man-out appearance.

How about just plain silver? Will match with the SS fittings all around and silver blends in well against white. Mixing in a bit of the Hammered finish gold would change from straight silver to a champagne silver.

I have a Yacht Specialities Pedestal, so not sure what silver extension you are referring. Attached is a picture of my pedestal as it now looks.

Thing about the pedestal is that presumably it and the wheel are always covered when you aren't at the boat. A paint job should look good for many many years. Certainly the two part Perfection should last.

Do you have a home depot nearby? The one in our county has quite a few colors of Hammered.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Hi Rardi, I was asking about the section above the guard plate. It looks like brushed aluminum. Mine is more of a crummy white enamel. And I think I will find that powder coating is too expensive. I'll have almost $500. in my little battery rewiring project. And that doesn't count the batteries. Time to start cutting back.