raising the mast

[mike]

I am planning to build an a-frame to help raise the mast. It should pivot on the foward chainplates but the chainplates run athwartships. Any ideas on how to get the a-frame to pivot fore

 

[Brad]

Angle Change

Mike,If your set up is like mine (I have a 1972 SK), you can change the angle of the chainplates by loosening things up a bit then retightening after you get the chainplate angle where you need it.If that won't work, a universal joint might do the trick.Good luck!Brad.

 

[Dick of Sylvan]

Tie Them

I simply run a small ca. 1/4 in. line thru the base of an A leg, then thru the fitting on the chainplate and tie it snug. I also pad the base of the A a bit with a piece of carpeted plywood to avoid damage to the deck. Works fine. While you could rotate the fitting as suggested, you would probably want to rotate it back when you attach the stay, so that it all pivots with a minimum of friction.

 

[Barry Broyles]

Think about leaks

Mike: I have seen Dick's type of system in use and it works well. One thing you don't want to do is turn the chain plates, it can break the seal and they could leak. A couple years ago I removed the chain plates during the off season to seal the deck core as recommended by West System, and bedded and replaced the chain plates, but I did not pay attention to their allingment. In the spring when I raised the mast I turned the chainplates into allingment, unfortunately it broke the bedding seal on 2 of them causing them to leak and I had to remove them and rebed them. You could also attach the "A" frame to the lifeline stancions. See the following Site. http://sites.netscape.net/tedsailingpage/Mast_RaisingBarry Broyles C22 # 1909 "Brighteyes"

 

[Tom]

Threaded Link

I raise and lower the mast on my C22 solo using a pair of 7' fiberglass poles with eyebolts through caps on each end. Each eyebolt has an adjustable threaded link ("quick-link"). I attach each pole to the life-line stanion base where they're free to pivot and attach the other ends to a 2" welded ring. The welded ring holds a shackle to the forestay and a shackle to a line through a block attached to the forestay chainplate (forms an "A" frame). A 12 vdc electric winch pulls the mast up while I tend to snagging shrouds or three wraps around the port jib winch provides braking for lowering. Works for me.

 

[Tom]

Threaded Link

I raise and lower the mast on my C22 solo using a pair of 7' fiberglass poles with eyebolts through caps on each end. Each eyebolt has an adjustable threaded link ("quick-link"). I attach each pole to the life-line stanion base where they're free to pivot and attach the other ends to a 2" welded ring. The welded ring holds a shackle to the forestay and a shackle to a line through a block attached to the forestay chainplate (forms an "A" frame). A 12 vdc electric winch pulls the mast up while I tend to snagging shrouds or three wraps around the port jib winch provides braking for lowering. Works for me. (this may be posted twice)

 

[Brad]

Make the change permanent

A good point about not wanting to unbed the chainplates and causing leaks. I suppose I should have mentioned that the loosen and re-tighten method should be a permanent thing...not something to do everytime you raise/lower the mast.Once you get the angle correct for the A-frame, you shouldn't have to worry about changing it. The turnbuckle at the bottom of the shroud will take care of you being able to connect the rigging to the chainplate.Regards,Brad.