Raising H23 Up from Trailer
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Easy stuff.. done it a zillion times before on lots of different boats. There are a few different ways you can do it. One way is to jack everything up on the trailer.. 6 inches to a foot should be good.. then place blocks under the hull in strategic points and lower trailer. You can use whatever you have handy to block it up.. cinder blocks and 2x4's, 2x6's, etc, with a scrap of carpet on top to keep from scratching work well. My favorite is styrofoam blocks.. I picked up a few from the local Tractor Supply that they were throwing away. They were used to keep the trailers from hitting each other when trucked in and are about 2 foot square. You can also make your own with some cardboard boxes, a couple of large garbage bags and some cans of 'great-stuff' spray foam from the borg.
If you only need a little clearance, a real easy way is to first drop the trailer tongue to the ground which raises up the rear. Block up the rear, then raise the trailer tongue as far as it will go up and block up the front of the hull. Once blocked, drop the front to give you clearance between the trailer and hull.
I've also suspended hulls under a pole barn using tow straps as well, but not everyone has a pole barn
Cheers,
Brad
If you only need a little clearance, a real easy way is to first drop the trailer tongue to the ground which raises up the rear. Block up the rear, then raise the trailer tongue as far as it will go up and block up the front of the hull. Once blocked, drop the front to give you clearance between the trailer and hull.
I've also suspended hulls under a pole barn using tow straps as well, but not everyone has a pole barn
Cheers,
Brad
What I used to do with my ODay 222...
She was a keel/centerbooard boat. 20" or so of fixed lead keel and a 4' board that dropped out of the center of it. I would unhitch the trailer from the car and lower the tongue of the trailer as low as possible. Then I would make two stacks of cinderblocks, topped by a piece of 2x6, under the transom. Make each stack two wide and rotate the each layer 90 degrees so the stacks won't shift side to side or back to front. Then jack the tongue up as high as it will go. Then a third stack of blocks goes under the hull forward of the keel, inserting layers of wood at the top. Then drop the tongue. That gave me enough room to paint under neath. If you need more room see if you can unbolt the board that was under the keel and pull that out of the way. Be careful!
She was a keel/centerbooard boat. 20" or so of fixed lead keel and a 4' board that dropped out of the center of it. I would unhitch the trailer from the car and lower the tongue of the trailer as low as possible. Then I would make two stacks of cinderblocks, topped by a piece of 2x6, under the transom. Make each stack two wide and rotate the each layer 90 degrees so the stacks won't shift side to side or back to front. Then jack the tongue up as high as it will go. Then a third stack of blocks goes under the hull forward of the keel, inserting layers of wood at the top. Then drop the tongue. That gave me enough room to paint under neath. If you need more room see if you can unbolt the board that was under the keel and pull that out of the way. Be careful!
Although the advice given is somenting I would not suggest to everyone due to safety, you will need to look at the hull to determine what is the thickest glass on the hull which to block it with. So often, I have seen the end results of the hull caving in some with serious damage. Also, place alot of suppport underneath. What ever you do, be careful of placement so that it will not come out when placing the hull on the surpports.
This is why you often see chains between jack stands.
I have seen more than most on this forum and sometimes one thing could result in boat damage but sadly in some cases injury and a death or two. Just be careful with the advice in this thread. Merry Christmas.
crazy dave
This is why you often see chains between jack stands.
I have seen more than most on this forum and sometimes one thing could result in boat damage but sadly in some cases injury and a death or two. Just be careful with the advice in this thread. Merry Christmas.
crazy dave
It's done! Not too bad and alot better than paying the $300 to the boatyard and they would not let me work on it while in their yard. About $100 of materials and a slow process of keeping the trailer even while raising it up before blocking it. Next time I would get two more 55 gallon steel drums. I used them in the stern and that worked great!
I used two 3 ton hydraulic car jacks and two 6 ton fixed jacks I borrowed from my neighbor.
Thanks for everyone's replies, it helped a lot.
I used two 3 ton hydraulic car jacks and two 6 ton fixed jacks I borrowed from my neighbor.
Thanks for everyone's replies, it helped a lot.
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After I had the front brace built I removed any ties or ropes that was holding the boat to the trailer. Then I slowly lowered the jacks down and checked everything. Then I just pulled the trailer out with a friends help. It rolled out pretty easy. Had to rebrace the front support I built but not bad for the most part. Make sure you build the front brace wider than the tires or you are screwed. Back supports were behind the trailer so no worries there.
Basically did this:
http://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/dealers/06_tips_tricks/Pro_boat_raise.html
Basically did this:
http://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/dealers/06_tips_tricks/Pro_boat_raise.html
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Carboman,
email me please to my email address which you should have. I am concerned that you do not have anything to keep that boat from tilting over and it has happenned.
crazy dave condon
email me please to my email address which you should have. I am concerned that you do not have anything to keep that boat from tilting over and it has happenned.
crazy dave condon
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