Raising bunk boads on H26 - suggestions

[Derf123]

The aft part of my keel is currently sitting on the trailer cross brace. Evidently, the PO removed the boards that should be there to protect the keel. I got under the boat and tried to move, wiggle, or whatever the aft part of the CB and it would not budge. I am afraid it is putting pressure on the top of the recess it fits into, and may cause a crack.

My solution is to raise the bunks by 1-1/2 inches by placing a 6" piece of 2x6 pressure treated on top of each stanchion then replacing the bunks with new 2x8 pressure treated wood on top of the 2x6's, and bolting the whole thing together at each stanchion. Then add back 1x PT for the keel support. That should give me about 3/4" of space below the keel and the keel support board. I saw under the knowledge base where Pat Adam rebuilt his trailer but replaced the stanchions with 2"x2" steel to give 2-1/2 inch lift. I thought my idea might work instead of replacing the stanchions.

Comments are welcome and a picture of my situation is attached. Thanks..

 

[John23883]

Not sure I'd raise the bunks

Here are some pictures I took some time ago. They show the "plastic" deck boards I added in a V to center the boat while loading.

I would ask Dave about how much weight the centerboard trunk can take and how the weight is balanced between the centerboard and the hull.

By the way, when I had the boat off last summer, I realized the boards the centerboard sits on were rotten. When I peeled off the carpet, they turned out to be 3/4 plywood. I was out of town and the local HomeDepot cut the plywood to size for me. I bought the new carpet there and tacks and a hammer and the install was easy.

 

[MABell]

Spot on

I did exactly what you described. My centerboard platform was still in place, but I could tell there was a lot of pressure on the CB. Really don’t think you will notice any difference in towing (center of gravity) or any other effects.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

There should be some play with the centerboard while sitting on the trailer without it pushing up into the centerboard well housing on the bottom of the boat.. I would suggest getting the boat off the trailer by putting in the water for overnight. If the boards are rotten, then of course replace them and you may want to go with a thicker board but that may not help. What I use to do is buy the galvanized bunk board stanchions in longer lengths, cut and and measure the placement of the holes so the bunk boards will sit higher if the current stanchions are not long enough. They are not adjustable which is the issue but if you can raise them up by 1-2 inches, then you should be good to go with the ones on the trailer. If not, you will need to purchase from a trailer dealer or mfg. I would measure each stalk or support and take the holes further down uniformly adding the desired length to each one with the same additional measurement.

I hope this helps.

crazy dave

 

[kenkindy1]

I have a lot of pressure on my Centerboard the way my trailer is set up. I need to replace the 1* boards under my boat as well. There are some project pictures on here. http://birmmik.home.comcast.net/~birmmik/H240Projects.html (see keel guide pics) where the 1* are replaced with 2*. I think with the design of the trailer you'd have to plane down the 2 * where the board crosses the trailer frame attachment points to make a solid fit at the bolt down points.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Let me again respond to this as I had to over the years correct this issue. Most of the time I would find the bunk supports sometimes referred to as the stalks were cut too short or sometimes too long during manufacturing or in a couple of cases due to mass production, they grabbed the wrong stalks. Most of the time raising an inch was marginal and getting a thicker bunk board was not the solution.

Generally if there were four stalks, I would use the end pieces as the middle pieces and purchase new stalks and cut them to the length needed. I would then measure the stalks and raise evenly by about two inches leaving excess stalk length until the boat was back on the trailer to see if the centerboard was loose underneath with the boat on the trailer.

On some trailers, the stalks were not thru bolted but pressure style holding the stalks in place and saw where the bolts loosened up and readjusted accordingly.

Sometimes I found that raising the back stalks if there was excess length would do the trick but you would have to readjust the center stalks. Every time I had to do this, each trailer was different, so you had to figure what to do. The boat would need to be off when replacing the stalks for safety reasons but experienced could do it other ways but for those without experience, take the boat off.

I pretty much just covered the issues I guess on this response.

crazy dave condon

 

[Brian M H23]

I'm with Dave - It's a short piece of 2" box steel with 3 holes in it. Just do it right, and replace them with longer ones.

I'm curious though - are you saying the boat has been getting lower over time? Because that seems fishy. What's been moving?

 

[Derf123]

Thanks for all the replies/advice. Brian, if your question is directed at me, this is the way I got the boat/trailer from the PO, so I don't know why it sits so low on the bunks. You specify 2" square steel, is that the dimension of the current "stalks". Seems they look less than that (1-1/2" maybe). I am not at the trailer right now so I can't look but I do want to order some stock today so I get it by this weekend. I suppose steel would be ok as long as I paint it first.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Derf123;

suggest doing this right and order galvanized as you will have a lot of less issues over the years.

 

[Derf123]

Will do CDC (not Center for Disease Control) - thanks

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Ok Derf, You made me laugh sir and I appreciate that. I have always said a laugh or apple a day keeps the doctor away.

crazy dave condom oops condon