I am fighting a couple of fresh water leaks. One at the mast step coming right in the wire conduit. The other is coming in around the pedestal somewhere. I have rebed the pedestal feet. It seems to be following the wires in from the navpod. Any thoughts.
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Assume Everything Leaks
Jim - depending how ol dyour boat is...assume everything leaks on the deck and start by re-bedding it all! That's what I did and my bilge is just about dry after very heavy rain storms.
Jim - depending how ol dyour boat is...assume everything leaks on the deck and start by re-bedding it all! That's what I did and my bilge is just about dry after very heavy rain storms.
MUST be dry...
To repeat a reply, "rebed everything". Then, you may solve your problem by filling the wire tube under the mast with caulk, worked for me. Have fun, been dry 3 years and counting... JC
To repeat a reply, "rebed everything". Then, you may solve your problem by filling the wire tube under the mast with caulk, worked for me. Have fun, been dry 3 years and counting... JC
P30 leak
I spent 4 years tracking down a leak that appeared to be above our port salon window. After rebedding handrails,etc, and nearly tearing hair...which I don't have too much of...I found it! For entirely another reason, I had to remove the companionway sliding hatch. While reinstalling it, I removed and rebedded the aluminum strips that hold it in place. NO MORE LEAK!! It looks like it must have been leaking around the screws that helt the strips in place, and running through the overhead and the window was the first place the water could come out. I do have another leak I can't find, though. Under power, and only under power, the bilge pump runs about once an hour. I've replaced the hoses from the cockpit drains to the thruhulls, and the cockpit drains themselves. There are no apparent leaks around the engine, exhaust system, or rudder post. I've replaced the thruhull for the bilge pumps, and both have check valves in them. I've even resorted to sprinkling talcum powder around suspect areas to show up water tracks. Nothing seems to work. I'm baffled. Suggestions?
I spent 4 years tracking down a leak that appeared to be above our port salon window. After rebedding handrails,etc, and nearly tearing hair...which I don't have too much of...I found it! For entirely another reason, I had to remove the companionway sliding hatch. While reinstalling it, I removed and rebedded the aluminum strips that hold it in place. NO MORE LEAK!! It looks like it must have been leaking around the screws that helt the strips in place, and running through the overhead and the window was the first place the water could come out. I do have another leak I can't find, though. Under power, and only under power, the bilge pump runs about once an hour. I've replaced the hoses from the cockpit drains to the thruhulls, and the cockpit drains themselves. There are no apparent leaks around the engine, exhaust system, or rudder post. I've replaced the thruhull for the bilge pumps, and both have check valves in them. I've even resorted to sprinkling talcum powder around suspect areas to show up water tracks. Nothing seems to work. I'm baffled. Suggestions?
P30 Leak: only under power
Is your boat an inboard? If so check stuffing box (where the prop shaft passes thru the hull), chances are it needs tightened and or repacked (replaced?). Reminder: traditional stuffing boxes are designed to drip, as the shaft turns this water cools the packing and overtightening will score the shaft. Replacing the stuffing box requires pulling the boat as the shaft must be freed and it's also a great time to replace the cutlass bearing, zincs and get your prop checked. If replacing the stuffing box, consider the maintenances free shaft seal from PSS as it ends the problem, no repacking, no leaks (My plan next hull out). Hope this info helps...
Is your boat an inboard? If so check stuffing box (where the prop shaft passes thru the hull), chances are it needs tightened and or repacked (replaced?). Reminder: traditional stuffing boxes are designed to drip, as the shaft turns this water cools the packing and overtightening will score the shaft. Replacing the stuffing box requires pulling the boat as the shaft must be freed and it's also a great time to replace the cutlass bearing, zincs and get your prop checked. If replacing the stuffing box, consider the maintenances free shaft seal from PSS as it ends the problem, no repacking, no leaks (My plan next hull out). Hope this info helps...
wire
When I wired the mast on Bietzpadlin I used indusdrial wiring techniques. I installed a small pull box on deck and a short length of flex conduit from the box to the mast. All the conections are made inside the box and the gasketed cover is screwed down tight. When I must unstep the mast the cover comes off, the spade connections are broken and the conduit nut allows me to separate the conduit from the box.
When I wired the mast on Bietzpadlin I used indusdrial wiring techniques. I installed a small pull box on deck and a short length of flex conduit from the box to the mast. All the conections are made inside the box and the gasketed cover is screwed down tight. When I must unstep the mast the cover comes off, the spade connections are broken and the conduit nut allows me to separate the conduit from the box.
I need info
I am very eager to receive info about Pearson P33 sailboat; pictures and hull plans. Thank you
I am very eager to receive info about Pearson P33 sailboat; pictures and hull plans. Thank you
The powder trick will find it.
Further things to look for: leaking seal on raw water engine pump (adjacent to the oil dipstick), pin hole developing in engine hosing, block casting or exhaust manifold, jacketed heat riser and the long 'radius jacketed connector pipe between the engine and the copper heat riser, leaking shaft log / stuffing box, cracked rubber tube behind the shaft log. . The answer is intuitively obvious: the engine and propulsion system. A very remote possibility is a cracked hull (very remote). P30s have very thin hull laminataions at the area at the aft section of the keel to hull 'joint'. If the boat is routinely 'badly blocked' so that the hull 'warps or distorts at the flat areas just behind the keel section when the boat is on jackstands, etc. the possibility is that over time you may 'fatigue' the hull and the first evidence is 'cracks'. A Pearson 30 needs VERY careful blocking when on the hard of hull distortion, etc is a strong possibility. ....... to keep things in perspective, look for the leakers on the engine, etc. Hope this helps ..... Oh do I miss my old 'sweet sailing' P30 .... classic plastic!!!!!
Further things to look for: leaking seal on raw water engine pump (adjacent to the oil dipstick), pin hole developing in engine hosing, block casting or exhaust manifold, jacketed heat riser and the long 'radius jacketed connector pipe between the engine and the copper heat riser, leaking shaft log / stuffing box, cracked rubber tube behind the shaft log. . The answer is intuitively obvious: the engine and propulsion system. A very remote possibility is a cracked hull (very remote). P30s have very thin hull laminataions at the area at the aft section of the keel to hull 'joint'. If the boat is routinely 'badly blocked' so that the hull 'warps or distorts at the flat areas just behind the keel section when the boat is on jackstands, etc. the possibility is that over time you may 'fatigue' the hull and the first evidence is 'cracks'. A Pearson 30 needs VERY careful blocking when on the hard of hull distortion, etc is a strong possibility. ....... to keep things in perspective, look for the leakers on the engine, etc. Hope this helps ..... Oh do I miss my old 'sweet sailing' P30 .... classic plastic!!!!!
Make sure that your mast has a weep hole drilled
into the bottom secto to allow for water/condensation drainage. Pearson typically used a pipe inlet that stands about 4-5 inches abouve the mast plate. If the collected water inside the mast rises above the pipe, its going to leak into the boat. A small weep hole drilled into the base of the mast whould allow trouble free drainage.
into the bottom secto to allow for water/condensation drainage. Pearson typically used a pipe inlet that stands about 4-5 inches abouve the mast plate. If the collected water inside the mast rises above the pipe, its going to leak into the boat. A small weep hole drilled into the base of the mast whould allow trouble free drainage.
Leaks under Power
If you are leaking in seawater under power - check the cockpit drains and/or any through-hulls that exit the transom low to the water-line. Sometimes plastic above water thu-hulls crack and leet some water in while under power (or loaded) - where they become slightly submurged. Rob
If you are leaking in seawater under power - check the cockpit drains and/or any through-hulls that exit the transom low to the water-line. Sometimes plastic above water thu-hulls crack and leet some water in while under power (or loaded) - where they become slightly submurged. Rob
Rain water
We once had a mysterious fresh water leak in our P36-2 and found a scupper drain elbow cracked. We suspect it cracked from repeated freezing and thawing of snow and ice on deck. The mast will collect water at the head plate and run down the inside of the mast and puddle in the bilge. With carefull calculations you can measure the amount of rainfall by the level in the bilge.
We once had a mysterious fresh water leak in our P36-2 and found a scupper drain elbow cracked. We suspect it cracked from repeated freezing and thawing of snow and ice on deck. The mast will collect water at the head plate and run down the inside of the mast and puddle in the bilge. With carefull calculations you can measure the amount of rainfall by the level in the bilge.
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