My 1981 Hunter 27 is on the hard and taking on water when it rains. For sure, the water is not coming in through the hatches or ports. I tested the cockpit drains, the anchor well drain, and the deck scuppers, and they don't appear to be leaking. I'm guessing it's the deck/hull joint or stanchions (if anybody has other places to look, please speak up!). So, given that the liner hides most of the stanchion mounts and the entire deck/hull joint, how can I find out if that's the source of the leak and what can I do about it?
Rain leaks - YIKES!
- Thread starter Stephen OBrien
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Pulpit
Seal and rebbed The pulpit and stanchions. It is not easy to get to the pulpit nuts but it will be worth it.
Seal and rebbed The pulpit and stanchions. It is not easy to get to the pulpit nuts but it will be worth it.
Been reading the archives...
From what I've been reading, it seems like rebedding deck hardware and tightening toerail bolts is pretty common. I'll give it a try when the weather warms.
From what I've been reading, it seems like rebedding deck hardware and tightening toerail bolts is pretty common. I'll give it a try when the weather warms.
Factory Method - it works!
I was sure that HUNTER designed my boat to leak and had a few words with a factory rep at a boat show. He suggested I replace one board in the companion way entrance with cardboard and put a hole in it. Use a leaf blower or shop vacuum exhaust to pressurize the cabin a few pounds. You must duct tape the dorade vents closed. With pressure in the cabin spray the top sides with soapy water. You'll see bubbles where the leaks are. I found most of the leaks that way
I was sure that HUNTER designed my boat to leak and had a few words with a factory rep at a boat show. He suggested I replace one board in the companion way entrance with cardboard and put a hole in it. Use a leaf blower or shop vacuum exhaust to pressurize the cabin a few pounds. You must duct tape the dorade vents closed. With pressure in the cabin spray the top sides with soapy water. You'll see bubbles where the leaks are. I found most of the leaks that way
Daryl, tell me more please
How long did it take you to find leaks this way? Did you just pur soapy water along the toe rail to find them? Were the leaks isolated to specific spots? I sure would appreciate some more details.
How long did it take you to find leaks this way? Did you just pur soapy water along the toe rail to find them? Were the leaks isolated to specific spots? I sure would appreciate some more details.
Leak Detection
I used a leaf blower and a spray bottle with water and some dish soap. I found leaks at the toe rail and where some hardware was mounted on my HUNTER 34. It took under an hour to identify the source of the leaks. Jim Bohart the previous factory rep told me thay use this method on new vessels which led me to believe leaks are very common on Hunter sailboats. You get what you pay for?
I used a leaf blower and a spray bottle with water and some dish soap. I found leaks at the toe rail and where some hardware was mounted on my HUNTER 34. It took under an hour to identify the source of the leaks. Jim Bohart the previous factory rep told me thay use this method on new vessels which led me to believe leaks are very common on Hunter sailboats. You get what you pay for?
All boats will leak sooner or later
Not just Hunters. I have seen some production boats, and also custom boats, all had leaks. Including a Swan, Island Packet, and Hallberg Rassy. Although some leak more frequently then others. As for tightening the toe rail bolts, be careful not to over tighten them. There is supposed to be a soft foam/rubber/whatever layer between the deck and hull. Think of it as a gasket. Their purpose is to fill the gaps if there are any uneven surfaces. If you over tighten them, the foam layer will get over compressed and eventually lose their expandability to fill the gaps, and you may end up with more leaks. So, if you decide to tighten the bolts, just turn them a quarter turn, and leave some room for future tightening. Of course, if you find some that are really loose, then tighten them.
Not just Hunters. I have seen some production boats, and also custom boats, all had leaks. Including a Swan, Island Packet, and Hallberg Rassy. Although some leak more frequently then others. As for tightening the toe rail bolts, be careful not to over tighten them. There is supposed to be a soft foam/rubber/whatever layer between the deck and hull. Think of it as a gasket. Their purpose is to fill the gaps if there are any uneven surfaces. If you over tighten them, the foam layer will get over compressed and eventually lose their expandability to fill the gaps, and you may end up with more leaks. So, if you decide to tighten the bolts, just turn them a quarter turn, and leave some room for future tightening. Of course, if you find some that are really loose, then tighten them.
Hey Daryl...
"...You get what you pay for?" It seems to me that you never miss an opportunity to take a cheap-shot at Hunter sailboats. How about making a New years resolution to stop being such a troll
"...You get what you pay for?" It seems to me that you never miss an opportunity to take a cheap-shot at Hunter sailboats. How about making a New years resolution to stop being such a troll
Will,
That's just Daryl. It's easier to ignor his comments. He likes to talk about his old 'lemon' H34. To him, all Hunters are the same.
That's just Daryl. It's easier to ignor his comments. He likes to talk about his old 'lemon' H34. To him, all Hunters are the same.
Will do
"That's just Daryl. It's easier to ignor his comments. He likes to talk about his old 'lemon' H34. To him, all Hunters are the same." -Got it and thanks. I usually don't spout-off but I just couldn't take it anymore
"That's just Daryl. It's easier to ignor his comments. He likes to talk about his old 'lemon' H34. To him, all Hunters are the same." -Got it and thanks. I usually don't spout-off but I just couldn't take it anymore
Will?
You new here? Thanks for you post. Your contribution here helps everyone. Add pictures next time like Fred
You new here? Thanks for you post. Your contribution here helps everyone. Add pictures next time like Fred
No, I'm not new...
"You new here? Thanks for you post. Your contribution here helps everyone. Add pictures next time like Fred" -I've been posting here off and on for a few years. I have an '85 25.5 in cherry condition.
"You new here? Thanks for you post. Your contribution here helps everyone. Add pictures next time like Fred" -I've been posting here off and on for a few years. I have an '85 25.5 in cherry condition.
Speaking of leaks...
The last time I was on the boat, I noticed the starboard aft fixed portlight in the main cabin had been leaking. The plexi appears to be set in some form of gasket. The PO had applied some sort of black caulk to the outside along the frame/plexi edge, which tipped me off to expect this problem eventually. Does the whole assembly need to be replaced or can new gasket material be obtained? Or, is this a full edge caulking job with the frames holding the plexi in place? What would Fred do? S/V Intrepid H34 #113
The last time I was on the boat, I noticed the starboard aft fixed portlight in the main cabin had been leaking. The plexi appears to be set in some form of gasket. The PO had applied some sort of black caulk to the outside along the frame/plexi edge, which tipped me off to expect this problem eventually. Does the whole assembly need to be replaced or can new gasket material be obtained? Or, is this a full edge caulking job with the frames holding the plexi in place? What would Fred do? S/V Intrepid H34 #113
Dan - window question?
During the five year run of the h34 there were at least three different window designs, As part of Hunter's continuous improvement plan they coutinued to make cost cutting changes and none of the changes improved the quality of the vessel. Early boats had aluminum fixed window frames that may be reglazed (by a glass shop) and rebedded during installation. These were replaced (in mid production years) with plastic frames that didn't last long. Marks's plastics in CA fabricates replacement windows for these (bring money $$) Later years they just screwed plactic windows to the cabin sides (to cut more costs) So the answer depends on what style windows you have. (I suspect Fred and Will may disagree with these FACTS)
During the five year run of the h34 there were at least three different window designs, As part of Hunter's continuous improvement plan they coutinued to make cost cutting changes and none of the changes improved the quality of the vessel. Early boats had aluminum fixed window frames that may be reglazed (by a glass shop) and rebedded during installation. These were replaced (in mid production years) with plastic frames that didn't last long. Marks's plastics in CA fabricates replacement windows for these (bring money $$) Later years they just screwed plactic windows to the cabin sides (to cut more costs) So the answer depends on what style windows you have. (I suspect Fred and Will may disagree with these FACTS)
Gasket material
I bought replacement gasket material from Pompanette. It isn't cheap (about $3 per foot) but it does the job. The old gasket had gotten so hard that you couldn't get a proper seal. Unfortunately, the previous owner tried to compensate by screwing the dogs down tighter and tighter until they cracked they lenses, so I had to buy new lenses as well. With the new gaskets, the windows make a nice water-tight seal. ps. Daryl, I do appreciate your suggestion regarding the leaf blower. I have hopes to make my old boat fully leak proof yet.
I bought replacement gasket material from Pompanette. It isn't cheap (about $3 per foot) but it does the job. The old gasket had gotten so hard that you couldn't get a proper seal. Unfortunately, the previous owner tried to compensate by screwing the dogs down tighter and tighter until they cracked they lenses, so I had to buy new lenses as well. With the new gaskets, the windows make a nice water-tight seal. ps. Daryl, I do appreciate your suggestion regarding the leaf blower. I have hopes to make my old boat fully leak proof yet.
Window question answer
Daryl, my H34 is one of the earlier production run models before they started "value engineering". It has the metal window frames, the large mast step, the larger rudder, the large cleat in the anchor locker, Lewmar winches, and the Yanmar 3GM30F power plant. There are three other, newer 34's on my dock, each with a different phase of "improvements" as you mentioned. The leak in the fixed port is at the aft end corner. It looks like the water is oozing out between the plexi and the gasket, not from under the frame. If it can be reglazed by a window shop, that may be the way I'll go. Thanks for the info. S/V Intrepid 1983 H34 #113
Daryl, my H34 is one of the earlier production run models before they started "value engineering". It has the metal window frames, the large mast step, the larger rudder, the large cleat in the anchor locker, Lewmar winches, and the Yanmar 3GM30F power plant. There are three other, newer 34's on my dock, each with a different phase of "improvements" as you mentioned. The leak in the fixed port is at the aft end corner. It looks like the water is oozing out between the plexi and the gasket, not from under the frame. If it can be reglazed by a window shop, that may be the way I'll go. Thanks for the info. S/V Intrepid 1983 H34 #113
Leaf Blower
Daryl, I believe it was Jim Bohart that gave our dealership the idea of using a leaf blower to find where leaks were occurring on a customer's boat. No, it wasn't a Hunter either. Yes, it does work very well after you seal up the boat. Speaking of leaks, when we had a water ballast boat with an apparent in-the-water leak, we suspected a ballast tank seam had ruptured. Hunter suggested we add several large packages of grape Kool Aide to the filled tank while the boat was on its trailer to see if it showed up in the cabin. When it didn't we started draining the tank just as you would at the ramp after loading up after a sail. Within 20 minutes we had every Yellow Jacket in a half mile radius swarming over the grape sugar water and taking samples back to their nests to invite more to join the party. We didn't think it was so funny at the time!
Daryl, I believe it was Jim Bohart that gave our dealership the idea of using a leaf blower to find where leaks were occurring on a customer's boat. No, it wasn't a Hunter either. Yes, it does work very well after you seal up the boat. Speaking of leaks, when we had a water ballast boat with an apparent in-the-water leak, we suspected a ballast tank seam had ruptured. Hunter suggested we add several large packages of grape Kool Aide to the filled tank while the boat was on its trailer to see if it showed up in the cabin. When it didn't we started draining the tank just as you would at the ramp after loading up after a sail. Within 20 minutes we had every Yellow Jacket in a half mile radius swarming over the grape sugar water and taking samples back to their nests to invite more to join the party. We didn't think it was so funny at the time!
According to Mark.....
According to Mark at Mark Plastics, they quit using the alum. frames because the cracked and broke. I have seen many H'34's and have never seen one from the factory with the fixed ports just screwed to the cabin housing. I think you will find that this was a user fix. This is really not that uncommon even on new boats. I believe that the Mark Plastics replacements are similar to the Alum. frames. This was a common design for Islanders, Ericsons and many other boats.
According to Mark at Mark Plastics, they quit using the alum. frames because the cracked and broke. I have seen many H'34's and have never seen one from the factory with the fixed ports just screwed to the cabin housing. I think you will find that this was a user fix. This is really not that uncommon even on new boats. I believe that the Mark Plastics replacements are similar to the Alum. frames. This was a common design for Islanders, Ericsons and many other boats.
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