I changed the oil and filter on my 2 cyl diesel this week. I intended to change the Racor also. I checked the bowl and opened the drain plug. I could not see any evidence of water either visibly or with the drain open. I did not change the filter. It was changed 2 years ago. The boat has been very lightly used. I purchase fuel only at Herrington South. I believe the marina is very well run and expect that the management does what can be done to supply high quality fuel. I do not use any additives. What would you have done?
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I'd have changed them, as would anyone
who's had to change one at sea before. I change all filters every 100 hrs. which is usually every 7 or 8 months and the boat and fuel get used year round. If stored for the winter seems like it would be a very good idea to start the season with a fresh filter. On the other hand there's probably boats running around with really ancient filters, only time they'll fail is when you get into some rough weather so it adds to the fun.
who's had to change one at sea before. I change all filters every 100 hrs. which is usually every 7 or 8 months and the boat and fuel get used year round. If stored for the winter seems like it would be a very good idea to start the season with a fresh filter. On the other hand there's probably boats running around with really ancient filters, only time they'll fail is when you get into some rough weather so it adds to the fun.
You're 'pushing' it ......
There are two states of water found in diesel oil: one is free water that drops out and settles to the bottom, the other is emulsified water which stays in solution with the oil. The cellulose used in Racor type filters will absorb water and eventually digest/soften in long term contact with water (Free water or emulsified water). Although the cellulose micro fibers (plus some ultrafine glass fibers) are 'resinated'/mixed with a wet strength epoxide resin the water will eventually penetrate and absorb into the cellulose. The 'softened' filter matrix wont be as strong and therefore you will eventually risk a 'breakthrough' of the pleat structure. The only way you can use such a filter for very long term service is to establish a profile of vacuum across the filter (differential pressure) with a vacuum (or pressure) gage, constantly monitor the gage versus the engine running at a reference (such as 'wide-open-throttle') .... and immediately change the filter when the differential pressure on the gage begins to lower or drop. Sudden drop or reduction of vacuum on the gage (or pressure) will indicate that the filter is now 'unloading' or has a breakthrough, etc. I have a very sophisticated filter system on my boat; I can get a maximum of three years out of a Racor (but I dont have ANY or very little water in my fuel).
There are two states of water found in diesel oil: one is free water that drops out and settles to the bottom, the other is emulsified water which stays in solution with the oil. The cellulose used in Racor type filters will absorb water and eventually digest/soften in long term contact with water (Free water or emulsified water). Although the cellulose micro fibers (plus some ultrafine glass fibers) are 'resinated'/mixed with a wet strength epoxide resin the water will eventually penetrate and absorb into the cellulose. The 'softened' filter matrix wont be as strong and therefore you will eventually risk a 'breakthrough' of the pleat structure. The only way you can use such a filter for very long term service is to establish a profile of vacuum across the filter (differential pressure) with a vacuum (or pressure) gage, constantly monitor the gage versus the engine running at a reference (such as 'wide-open-throttle') .... and immediately change the filter when the differential pressure on the gage begins to lower or drop. Sudden drop or reduction of vacuum on the gage (or pressure) will indicate that the filter is now 'unloading' or has a breakthrough, etc. I have a very sophisticated filter system on my boat; I can get a maximum of three years out of a Racor (but I dont have ANY or very little water in my fuel).
Yanmar Service intervals
While I agree that changing filters & perodic service intervals will not hurt you may be wasting money for something that does not need to be overdone. Service Intervals. The service intervals for the GM series of engines are as follows: Trans. (first time at 100 hrs) then every 300 hrs. Anti-freeze 500 hrs. Wash the air filter every 250 hrs. Oil Filter 300 hrs. Engine Oil (first 20 hrs, then next 30 hrs) then every 100 hrs . Be sure that you DO NOT overfill the transmission. Place the cap on the tranmission without screwing it down to check the oil level. There is also other time elements that you can take into consideration too. Where you purchase your fuel is also a major factor. The condition of your tank may have more to play than any of these suggestions.
While I agree that changing filters & perodic service intervals will not hurt you may be wasting money for something that does not need to be overdone. Service Intervals. The service intervals for the GM series of engines are as follows: Trans. (first time at 100 hrs) then every 300 hrs. Anti-freeze 500 hrs. Wash the air filter every 250 hrs. Oil Filter 300 hrs. Engine Oil (first 20 hrs, then next 30 hrs) then every 100 hrs . Be sure that you DO NOT overfill the transmission. Place the cap on the tranmission without screwing it down to check the oil level. There is also other time elements that you can take into consideration too. Where you purchase your fuel is also a major factor. The condition of your tank may have more to play than any of these suggestions.
Second the motion
That last comment on the condition of the fuel tank bears repeating in detail. Older boats may have had water intrusions into the fuel tank from deteriorating 'O' ring on the deck fill fuel cap. Sludge build up and algae build up go un-noticed in the tank itself as the fuel pick-up tube is 1/2 to 3/4" off the bottom and recirculating and 'fuel polishing' the existing fuel won't, in my opinion, clean off all the inside surfaces. At some time the deposits may break lose or the new low sulfur fuel being more solvent may loosens up more residue. Only by installing an access port can you physically clean and inspect most tanks. It would seem that prevention of problems would require knowing how clean the tank itself is; in the absence of that knowledge, changing the filters more often would be smart
That last comment on the condition of the fuel tank bears repeating in detail. Older boats may have had water intrusions into the fuel tank from deteriorating 'O' ring on the deck fill fuel cap. Sludge build up and algae build up go un-noticed in the tank itself as the fuel pick-up tube is 1/2 to 3/4" off the bottom and recirculating and 'fuel polishing' the existing fuel won't, in my opinion, clean off all the inside surfaces. At some time the deposits may break lose or the new low sulfur fuel being more solvent may loosens up more residue. Only by installing an access port can you physically clean and inspect most tanks. It would seem that prevention of problems would require knowing how clean the tank itself is; in the absence of that knowledge, changing the filters more often would be smart
I keep my boat at Herrington North
which no longer sells fuel. I would not buy it there in any event, or Herrington South, or any other marina unless I absolutely had to. And if I had to buy it from a marina, I'd use a Baha or West Marine water/crud separating funnel while putting fuel into the tank. These funnels are good investments regardless of where you buy fuel. Most sailboats in these areas do not use much fuel during the season and while South has some big powerboats, I don't know how many are diesels. My point is that I have some doubts about fuel freshness at any marina. If you use a relatively small amount of fuel, and most sailboaters put less than 100 hours a season on their engines, I think you would be better off buying fuel in a jerry can from a busy truck stop. I would also change your primary filter every year and your secondary every two years or so. My guess is that you have a bit of "older" fuel in your tank and dirt/crud/algae, etc., could have built up in it. Fresh fuel, and fresh fuel filters, prevent most common engine problems.... Finally, I think it useful to add "Pri-D" as a stablizer/lubricant and a dash of algaecide to keep the critters at bay. I also started adding a Cetane booster last year as most ULSD fuel these days is rated at 40 and my Yanmar requires 45.
which no longer sells fuel. I would not buy it there in any event, or Herrington South, or any other marina unless I absolutely had to. And if I had to buy it from a marina, I'd use a Baha or West Marine water/crud separating funnel while putting fuel into the tank. These funnels are good investments regardless of where you buy fuel. Most sailboats in these areas do not use much fuel during the season and while South has some big powerboats, I don't know how many are diesels. My point is that I have some doubts about fuel freshness at any marina. If you use a relatively small amount of fuel, and most sailboaters put less than 100 hours a season on their engines, I think you would be better off buying fuel in a jerry can from a busy truck stop. I would also change your primary filter every year and your secondary every two years or so. My guess is that you have a bit of "older" fuel in your tank and dirt/crud/algae, etc., could have built up in it. Fresh fuel, and fresh fuel filters, prevent most common engine problems.... Finally, I think it useful to add "Pri-D" as a stablizer/lubricant and a dash of algaecide to keep the critters at bay. I also started adding a Cetane booster last year as most ULSD fuel these days is rated at 40 and my Yanmar requires 45.
Good Advice
Change the filters regularly whether you think they need it or not. Many, many things can happen. The main thing is that if you do it regularly, and know how to do it, then you probably will never get in trouble. But if you don't change them, and are not very at ease doing it, sooner or later that time will come when you will have to do it under less than ideal conditions. I have done it, and I can assure you that you do not want to ever change a fuel filter, offshore in rough conditions.
Change the filters regularly whether you think they need it or not. Many, many things can happen. The main thing is that if you do it regularly, and know how to do it, then you probably will never get in trouble. But if you don't change them, and are not very at ease doing it, sooner or later that time will come when you will have to do it under less than ideal conditions. I have done it, and I can assure you that you do not want to ever change a fuel filter, offshore in rough conditions.
I would have changed the Racor filter too.
Filters are easier to change at the dock while performing regular maintenance than at sea, not to mention the hazard of having the engine die while entering a tricky jetty or channel. Just because there was no water on the fuel it does not mean there was no dirt in the tank. Diesel fuel especially in lightly used boats tends to degrade and breed bacteria. It is the dead bacteria and their waste that create sediments in the tank. I just replaced the primary filter on my engine and it was totally clean so I saved it as an emergency spare. I opened the racor and it had about about a cup of dirty water, the filter looked OK but replaced it anyways. Our humidity here is quite high and it has been climbing early this year so the amount of water did not surprise me but the dirt in the water did. Sediments were cleaned from bottom of bowl. I replace filters every 6 months includying oil filter. Change oil filter every other oil change.
Filters are easier to change at the dock while performing regular maintenance than at sea, not to mention the hazard of having the engine die while entering a tricky jetty or channel. Just because there was no water on the fuel it does not mean there was no dirt in the tank. Diesel fuel especially in lightly used boats tends to degrade and breed bacteria. It is the dead bacteria and their waste that create sediments in the tank. I just replaced the primary filter on my engine and it was totally clean so I saved it as an emergency spare. I opened the racor and it had about about a cup of dirty water, the filter looked OK but replaced it anyways. Our humidity here is quite high and it has been climbing early this year so the amount of water did not surprise me but the dirt in the water did. Sediments were cleaned from bottom of bowl. I replace filters every 6 months includying oil filter. Change oil filter every other oil change.
Check the Hours.
You should be OK with the filter that's there. Unless it is definitely visible, your filter should be good for 200 hours (at least, but check it out) of running time. Don't fret about this season unless you see something in the bowl. Besides, you can still change it, now. If you want. Just shut off the valve at the fuel tank and proceed to change it. Just be sure to turn it on and bleed the fuel line before taking it out next time.
You should be OK with the filter that's there. Unless it is definitely visible, your filter should be good for 200 hours (at least, but check it out) of running time. Don't fret about this season unless you see something in the bowl. Besides, you can still change it, now. If you want. Just shut off the valve at the fuel tank and proceed to change it. Just be sure to turn it on and bleed the fuel line before taking it out next time.
I should think that filter would be rated for gallons
of fuel through the filter. I can't believe that my filter is good for only 150 gallons of clean fresh fuel before it needs changing. In highway service 200 hours could mean 10000 miles for a trucker. That could be 2000 gallons of fuel.
of fuel through the filter. I can't believe that my filter is good for only 150 gallons of clean fresh fuel before it needs changing. In highway service 200 hours could mean 10000 miles for a trucker. That could be 2000 gallons of fuel.
Racor Rating
I beleive that Racor's are rate as "x"/gph - meaning that "x" gallons are filtered each hour. (Some that is unburned is returned to the tank - hence "filtered and polished"). My first racor (Model 110 - was rated at 10/gph. I changed it because I couldn't see the separator because it was solid-walled). The Racor is called the "Primary" filter and is generally a more "open" micron, or larger, than the filter on the engine ("secondary" filter). FWIW!
I beleive that Racor's are rate as "x"/gph - meaning that "x" gallons are filtered each hour. (Some that is unburned is returned to the tank - hence "filtered and polished"). My first racor (Model 110 - was rated at 10/gph. I changed it because I couldn't see the separator because it was solid-walled). The Racor is called the "Primary" filter and is generally a more "open" micron, or larger, than the filter on the engine ("secondary" filter). FWIW!
Engine hours vs time
The engine hour schedule listed in the manuals can only be used as a basic guideline, at best. Every boat is used different, stations or marinas where you buy fuel are different. For me I use a boat 12 months a year, and the way I get in and out of the lake here, I more than likely will use 50 to 75 gallons of fuel in a year. For some, 50 gallons would be several seasons. I would think that the user of less fuel, would be more subject to a filter problem. Because of the greater likelihood of moisture collecting, fuel growing stale and growing squiggly little things in it. Considering the cost of boats, and the cost of labor for repairs, it only makes sense to change all the fuel filters on a regular schedule. A damaged injector pump would probably cost more to replace or repair than a lifetime of filters would cost.
The engine hour schedule listed in the manuals can only be used as a basic guideline, at best. Every boat is used different, stations or marinas where you buy fuel are different. For me I use a boat 12 months a year, and the way I get in and out of the lake here, I more than likely will use 50 to 75 gallons of fuel in a year. For some, 50 gallons would be several seasons. I would think that the user of less fuel, would be more subject to a filter problem. Because of the greater likelihood of moisture collecting, fuel growing stale and growing squiggly little things in it. Considering the cost of boats, and the cost of labor for repairs, it only makes sense to change all the fuel filters on a regular schedule. A damaged injector pump would probably cost more to replace or repair than a lifetime of filters would cost.
Filters only do the job they were designed to do .......
The typical standard sized Racor will only contain about 25 GRAMS of crap before it plugs, not dependent on how much fuel you put through it, not dependent on engine hours, not dependent on how long the boating season is, etc. If your tank is fouled, that 25 grams can come loose from the tank walls in one afternoon. If your tank is clean and you take on only clean fuel, etc. etc. etc. the filter will last until the filter media falls apart. 25 grams .... THATs IT. www.parker.com/literature/Literature%20Files/Parker.com/Literature/7501%20(Marine%20Brochure%20-%20August%202006).pdf The ONLY way to monitor filter performance is with a gage !!!!!!! BTW that 'rating' is GPH PER **PSID*** (or inches of hg. vacuum) .......... or differential pressure across the filter (and thats a CLEAN filter rating, not one that has begun to 'plug'). How you use such a filter **Flow vs. ∆P chart** is to first find how much fuel YOUR engine requires at WOT from the 'engine manual'. Multiply that value by 80% ( X 0.80) and go look at the filter flow chart, enter that 80% flow value ... which will correspond to a DIFERENTIAL PRESSURE ... and then simply change the filter when the GAGE shows that 80% differential pressure. You use the 80% value so that you change when the filter has 20% capacity left (as indicated by the GAGE and the CHART) .... and at 80% 'all used up' that extra 20% will come very 'fast'. A filter at 90% 'plugging' (based on YOUR engine's needs) will 'choke' VERY soon thereafter, almost instantaneously. ;-)
The typical standard sized Racor will only contain about 25 GRAMS of crap before it plugs, not dependent on how much fuel you put through it, not dependent on engine hours, not dependent on how long the boating season is, etc. If your tank is fouled, that 25 grams can come loose from the tank walls in one afternoon. If your tank is clean and you take on only clean fuel, etc. etc. etc. the filter will last until the filter media falls apart. 25 grams .... THATs IT. www.parker.com/literature/Literature%20Files/Parker.com/Literature/7501%20(Marine%20Brochure%20-%20August%202006).pdf The ONLY way to monitor filter performance is with a gage !!!!!!! BTW that 'rating' is GPH PER **PSID*** (or inches of hg. vacuum) .......... or differential pressure across the filter (and thats a CLEAN filter rating, not one that has begun to 'plug'). How you use such a filter **Flow vs. ∆P chart** is to first find how much fuel YOUR engine requires at WOT from the 'engine manual'. Multiply that value by 80% ( X 0.80) and go look at the filter flow chart, enter that 80% flow value ... which will correspond to a DIFERENTIAL PRESSURE ... and then simply change the filter when the GAGE shows that 80% differential pressure. You use the 80% value so that you change when the filter has 20% capacity left (as indicated by the GAGE and the CHART) .... and at 80% 'all used up' that extra 20% will come very 'fast'. A filter at 90% 'plugging' (based on YOUR engine's needs) will 'choke' VERY soon thereafter, almost instantaneously. ;-)
Your absolutely right RichH
And very well stated. A filter can only pick up so much crap. Has nothing to do with how much fuel goes through it, how many engine hours. Just how much crud is in the fuel. A dirty enough tank and you could plug a filter in an hour or less of engine time.
And very well stated. A filter can only pick up so much crap. Has nothing to do with how much fuel goes through it, how many engine hours. Just how much crud is in the fuel. A dirty enough tank and you could plug a filter in an hour or less of engine time.
Diesel Fuel Anality
I think you cannot be too anal about fuel. Some very good advice has been given here. Change both filters regularly, algaecide couple of times a year, Stabil and Cetane booster. My gas dock pumps thousands of gallons a day, but maybe that is no guarantee. Never thought of a Baja filter, would if I was in Mexico. Hmmm.......better to overdo the regular maintenance. Never broken down yet and do not want to.
I think you cannot be too anal about fuel. Some very good advice has been given here. Change both filters regularly, algaecide couple of times a year, Stabil and Cetane booster. My gas dock pumps thousands of gallons a day, but maybe that is no guarantee. Never thought of a Baja filter, would if I was in Mexico. Hmmm.......better to overdo the regular maintenance. Never broken down yet and do not want to.
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