Looking for info on the Racor 220 fuel/water filter that was installed in my Hunter.What is the bast way to change the filter, can it just be drained without having to bleed the system ?Any response would be appreciated.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
T
TOM MCNAMARA
FILTER
Make sure you have a small thing of diesel fuel amd fill the cartrige to the top with fuel before you put it back. Im not too sure about bleeding the engine but i know it is not hard.If the engine starts you are off to a good start. If it is rough,youll learn.good luck
Make sure you have a small thing of diesel fuel amd fill the cartrige to the top with fuel before you put it back. Im not too sure about bleeding the engine but i know it is not hard.If the engine starts you are off to a good start. If it is rough,youll learn.good luck
E
Ed Schenck
Tom's right.
Any time that I have had mine apart I have refilled the bowl before reassembling. I have never had to bleed the fuel lines to restart the diesel. Try it, if no luck then it is not difficult to bleed from the valves at the injectors. Lots of advice here on HOW about how to bleed.
Any time that I have had mine apart I have refilled the bowl before reassembling. I have never had to bleed the fuel lines to restart the diesel. Try it, if no luck then it is not difficult to bleed from the valves at the injectors. Lots of advice here on HOW about how to bleed.
J
Jock Muir
Changing Fuel / water separator filter
I found it helpful to install a fuel cock shut off valve between the tank and the filter right near the filter. This makes changing the filter a lot less messy and polluting. When you are ready to change the filter, turn off the fuel. Remove the old filter and you should also check and replace the O-rings. When you put the unit back together you can turn on the fuel cock to allow a flow of fuel to fill the filter. There should be bleeder vent nut or screw at the top of the filter unit. Keep it open until fuel begins to flow out. Last season I finally followed some good advice that I had learned long ago. I installed a separate fuel / water separator filter in parallel with the original. I was returning to our marina in high wind conditions to get some guests off to catch a bus. Guess what? The filter clogged just as I apprached a tricky marina interance and the engine stopped. I had to anchor offshore to replace the filter after taking the guests in by dinghy. With the parallel system I can swith over to the opional filter by turning two fuel cocks and I am on my way, able to deal with the errant filter at my leisure. I won't get caught again. Good advice: never sail again without learning how to bleed your diesel system! It is really quite simple but don't wait until your engine fails to learn. Fair winds, J.M.
I found it helpful to install a fuel cock shut off valve between the tank and the filter right near the filter. This makes changing the filter a lot less messy and polluting. When you are ready to change the filter, turn off the fuel. Remove the old filter and you should also check and replace the O-rings. When you put the unit back together you can turn on the fuel cock to allow a flow of fuel to fill the filter. There should be bleeder vent nut or screw at the top of the filter unit. Keep it open until fuel begins to flow out. Last season I finally followed some good advice that I had learned long ago. I installed a separate fuel / water separator filter in parallel with the original. I was returning to our marina in high wind conditions to get some guests off to catch a bus. Guess what? The filter clogged just as I apprached a tricky marina interance and the engine stopped. I had to anchor offshore to replace the filter after taking the guests in by dinghy. With the parallel system I can swith over to the opional filter by turning two fuel cocks and I am on my way, able to deal with the errant filter at my leisure. I won't get caught again. Good advice: never sail again without learning how to bleed your diesel system! It is really quite simple but don't wait until your engine fails to learn. Fair winds, J.M.
J
Jon Petersen
Changing Fuel Filter Yearly
I just changed my filter last week and I took a hour to get the filter out.. I was surprised that the engine still ran.. It was so black that I had to pull it apart piece by piece.. it was two years old and about 200 hours. I then changed the secondary filter. It didn’t look bad but it was only a year old. But it did have some water in it. I also will be putting in a second filter..
I just changed my filter last week and I took a hour to get the filter out.. I was surprised that the engine still ran.. It was so black that I had to pull it apart piece by piece.. it was two years old and about 200 hours. I then changed the secondary filter. It didn’t look bad but it was only a year old. But it did have some water in it. I also will be putting in a second filter..
R
Ron Dague
In changing the filter, I'd do a little more...
I just changed both filters, and part of the fuel line. I'd advise the following. 1) The recomendation to put a valve at the tank to shut off the diesel fuel is a good one. If you don't want to do this, get a couple of clamps to pinch the fuel line, without damaging it. Remember that you probably have 2 filters: The Racor and the Yanmar. The Yanmar will be affixed to the engine, after the lift pump. 2) So after clamping or shutting off the fuel above and below the Racor, remove the filter and replace it and the o-rings. I didn't pour diesel into my filter after changing. Rather, I opened the valve at my fuel tank, and let the fuel slowly run into the filter from the fuel tank. It takes a minute, but it's a lot less messy. I think (but am not sure!) that the tank will always be above the filter, especially if you have a full tank of diesel. Once the Racor is full of diesel, seal it up. Now on to the Yanmar filter. This little sucker is harder to get to. Being right on the side of the engine, makes it awkward, but doable. After removing the bottom, and replacing the filter, do fill the cup with diesel before putting it back on. Remember to replace the o-rings! Now, here's where I disagree with those that say you shouldn't need to bleed the fuel line. I would bleed the system at this point, just to be sure. It is easy to do, and a lot easier than letting a potential air bubble get to the high pressure side of the injectors. So... First open the bleader valve on the Yanmar fuel filter. It is the 10 mm nut, with a phillips head also. But use a 10 mm. Loosen it about 1/2 a turn and then pump the lift pump until fuel comes out with no bubbles. It will probably take 5-10 times, depending on how much air you got in changing the filters. Maybe more, if you didn't get the Racor filled with diesel. Oh, that lift pump is a little lever on the back of the engine, where the fuel line first fastens to a "thing" on the block. The funny part of the pump is that you push the lever down, and it springs back to pump. Play with it, you'll see. I strongly recommend the Seloc Yanmar Manual for good pictures and explanation of this. After you have the air out at the Yanmar fuel filter, tighten that bleeder and proceed to the one before the injector pump. The easiest way to find it is to follow the fuel line from the Yanmar filter up to where it goes. You'll see another 10 mm nut with a phillips head. Again, use a 10 mm wrench and loosen it 1/2 turn. Back to the lift pump until the fuel comes out. Tighten it. You are probably done. It is unlikely that any air bubbles got beyond this point. If you don't do these steps, you can get air into the injector pump, and then you have to bleed each of the injector ports by loosening the 17 mm nut at each port. You release the compression levers, move throttle to high, and crank until fuel comes out. It's a pain, but doable. However, if you take the time to properly bleed at the Yanmar filter and before the injector pump, using the lift pump, you shouldn't have to do this. So, my humble opinion is that it isn't worth taking the shortcut of not bleeding those two places. It is easier to do it right the first time, than to go back and fix it later. And, I do envy those that have changed filters and never had to bleed. I guess Murphy was a relative of mine... Ron H34 www.ExploreScuba.com PS: Don't forget to remove any clamps that you put on the fuel line while changing filters....lol
I just changed both filters, and part of the fuel line. I'd advise the following. 1) The recomendation to put a valve at the tank to shut off the diesel fuel is a good one. If you don't want to do this, get a couple of clamps to pinch the fuel line, without damaging it. Remember that you probably have 2 filters: The Racor and the Yanmar. The Yanmar will be affixed to the engine, after the lift pump. 2) So after clamping or shutting off the fuel above and below the Racor, remove the filter and replace it and the o-rings. I didn't pour diesel into my filter after changing. Rather, I opened the valve at my fuel tank, and let the fuel slowly run into the filter from the fuel tank. It takes a minute, but it's a lot less messy. I think (but am not sure!) that the tank will always be above the filter, especially if you have a full tank of diesel. Once the Racor is full of diesel, seal it up. Now on to the Yanmar filter. This little sucker is harder to get to. Being right on the side of the engine, makes it awkward, but doable. After removing the bottom, and replacing the filter, do fill the cup with diesel before putting it back on. Remember to replace the o-rings! Now, here's where I disagree with those that say you shouldn't need to bleed the fuel line. I would bleed the system at this point, just to be sure. It is easy to do, and a lot easier than letting a potential air bubble get to the high pressure side of the injectors. So... First open the bleader valve on the Yanmar fuel filter. It is the 10 mm nut, with a phillips head also. But use a 10 mm. Loosen it about 1/2 a turn and then pump the lift pump until fuel comes out with no bubbles. It will probably take 5-10 times, depending on how much air you got in changing the filters. Maybe more, if you didn't get the Racor filled with diesel. Oh, that lift pump is a little lever on the back of the engine, where the fuel line first fastens to a "thing" on the block. The funny part of the pump is that you push the lever down, and it springs back to pump. Play with it, you'll see. I strongly recommend the Seloc Yanmar Manual for good pictures and explanation of this. After you have the air out at the Yanmar fuel filter, tighten that bleeder and proceed to the one before the injector pump. The easiest way to find it is to follow the fuel line from the Yanmar filter up to where it goes. You'll see another 10 mm nut with a phillips head. Again, use a 10 mm wrench and loosen it 1/2 turn. Back to the lift pump until the fuel comes out. Tighten it. You are probably done. It is unlikely that any air bubbles got beyond this point. If you don't do these steps, you can get air into the injector pump, and then you have to bleed each of the injector ports by loosening the 17 mm nut at each port. You release the compression levers, move throttle to high, and crank until fuel comes out. It's a pain, but doable. However, if you take the time to properly bleed at the Yanmar filter and before the injector pump, using the lift pump, you shouldn't have to do this. So, my humble opinion is that it isn't worth taking the shortcut of not bleeding those two places. It is easier to do it right the first time, than to go back and fix it later. And, I do envy those that have changed filters and never had to bleed. I guess Murphy was a relative of mine... Ron H34 www.ExploreScuba.com PS: Don't forget to remove any clamps that you put on the fuel line while changing filters....lol
P
Pat Spino
Changing the fuel filter
Follow Ron's instructions. Be careful if you decide to use a clamp on the fuel line. My concern is the potential for a weakness at the point of the clamp. Do not use a clamp that will damage the line. You most likely have a shut off valve on the fuel tank itself, where the fuel line attaches to the tank. I have found, with regular, yearly replacement of the Racor primary, the Yanmar secondary stays surprisingly clean. Pat
Follow Ron's instructions. Be careful if you decide to use a clamp on the fuel line. My concern is the potential for a weakness at the point of the clamp. Do not use a clamp that will damage the line. You most likely have a shut off valve on the fuel tank itself, where the fuel line attaches to the tank. I have found, with regular, yearly replacement of the Racor primary, the Yanmar secondary stays surprisingly clean. Pat
- Status
- Not open for further replies.