Can anyone tell me how to remove the housing for my Racor 110A fuel filter? I removed the metal vent plug then tried unscrewing the housing and it won't budge. Am I missing something?
Racor 110A fuel filter - housing removal
- Thread starter Ciarabc
- Start date
Right so far .......................... maybe just a little more force using an oil filter wrench or strap wrench around the body. Grabbing that bottom hex fitting won't supply enough torque.
That filter canister should not be all that difficult to remove. Some of the removal difficulty may be the result of overtightening the canister as it was replaced. (Remember, if you ever changed your own oil on your car, the filter usually had the statement "hand tighten only" printed on it. You weren't supposed to use a wrench.).You need to open the drain plug to relieve any internal pressure. Then use a socket wrench to twist the canister free. A one gallon plastic milk container with the top cut off is a handy means of collecting the excess fuel as you remove the canister and the old filter.
Here's an idea which may or may not work depending on your filter location. My factory installation was difficult to deal with in that the filter sat over a bundle of electrical wiring going to the engine. It was all jammed together and a real bear to cover the wiring with poly and rags before opening the filter.
When I installed an electric fuel pump last year, figured that was the time to change out the filter for better access. Installed a plate of 3/4" Starboard with a few studs sticking out of it and mounted the filter on it. This is about one meter aft of where it sat before.
Now it's just a case of undoing a couple of nuts and the filter sits in your lap where you can work on it without slopping fuel around. At the above point, there is only about 1/2" under the body so the element can't come out unless the whole filter is removed. (The double nuts were only temporary until I could find some lock washers). I have a short bar to which I attach the filter in order to get a good grip on it to loosen the housing. The white block is styrofoam to support the wiring and other etceteras.
Still seems like a real pain for a simple filter change, but far, far better than what was there before.
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Great Scott. Next you'll have me putting a music box player on it that plays "Anchors Aweigh" when it's flipped out on the hinge. Say, maybe that's not a such a bad idea at all
.Actually, I also seem to have a bad time in removing the filter housing as was the start of this post. I've had a slight problem with leakage in the past and hence tended to really torque the housing after the media change. That, combined with the fact that I only change the media about once every 5-6 years. Maybe it's just my clean living, but I've never seen any accumulation of crud on the media. I know others are going to say it's a death sentence not to change annually but, 18 years and still going strong. The secondary filter I do change every other year, and again, it's clean.
Changing the fuel filter has left me a little wary as I have read that air can be introduced into the system and cause problems, so I have avoided this task. After replacing the filter, does the fuel prime itself automatically? I have the Racor 110A as above on my Yanmar 3JH4E.
Just refill the canister with fuel before reinstalling. I keep a plastic jar of fuel on hand. Stu uses injector cleaner. You should not have a problem with prime. But the time to find out is while you are tied to the dock...not bouncing about offshore.
If you're really an adherant to clean living, you'll find your fuel tank slightly higher that the filter (like mine). After a media change, I crack open the isolation valve before the filter and blow the air out the filter vent until fuel appears. Hasn't failed yet.
Fuel prime: Changing the filters should not break the prime. The air lock that most worry about is any the injector and injector rail. After you change the filters turn the key on and listen for the pump. It will satisfy and return fuel to the tank. Now you're good. If you try to start without allowing the pump to push fuel back to the tank, you could incur an air embolism..
Our B 321 has the same filter.The first time I replaced the filter (PO didn't now when filter was last changed)
It took considerable force to unseat filter housing ,used socket and half inch drive ratchet.
Also make sure you are turning the filter in the right direction.
Make sure to remove rubber gasket in filter body {where canister screws in) and replace with a new one
It took considerable force to unseat filter housing ,used socket and half inch drive ratchet.
Also make sure you are turning the filter in the right direction.
Make sure to remove rubber gasket in filter body {where canister screws in) and replace with a new one
Hi B,
I just bought a 1999 Beneteau 321 and plan to change all diesel filters, but had two questions:
- from what I understand this diesel system is self priming when turn the key on without cranking?
- where do you buy your filters?
Thank you