Does anyone have any ideas on how to repair or a resource to remove & replace a prop shaft & strut on my Hunter 33' Sloop 1989...Thank You
R&R Prop Shaft & Strut
- Thread starter BlueTequila
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R&RAlan said:
-prop shaft
-strut
-cutlass bearing
-repack packing gland
And do I need drop rudder
You will probably find the most difficult part of the job removing the coupling at the transmission. Remove the double sets of set screws (total 4) on the coupling and press off the coupling. Heating the coupling while cooling the shaft with dry ice will make the job go much easier. The same for the return trip.
Are you replacing the strut?? If so where is your part coming from?? I'm looking for a 2 bolt replacement..
I was told by my surveyor that the reason I need to replace the strut is because I think he said that the zinc covering the bronze was gone...if that is true, couldn't I just put another zinc layer over the bronze?mydoor165 said:
This is my very first boat!
Actually, it is not a zinc covering on the strut. The strut is zinc alloy with copper (bronze). If corrosion has occured, then the zinc is depleted changing the metallurgy of the strut. It will be brittle and prone to breaking. Now, the key part....is the zinc depletion only on the surface or all the way through? The first thing to look at is how pink and pitted the metal appears (zinc depleted) versus how gold it looks (normal bronze). If cleaning with a stiff wire brush brings back the golden luster then it is probably ok. If still pink, drill a 1/4" hole right through it and inspect the drill chips and look in the hole. If it is golden within a few thousanths of an inch inside, again it is probably fine. If the pink is 1/8 of an inch or more, then replace it. If it is ok then mount a pancake zinc on the hole you drilled and that will protect the strut from further degradation. If you can post a picture, that would be helpful.
Regarding pulling the shaft. It can be done without dropping the rudder. You need to remove the coupling from the shaft. There are lots of articles in the archives describing that. Next, mark the strut positon on the hull so it can be put back in exactly the same position. I use a fine felt tip pen and draw lines from the flat surface of the strut continuing onto the hull. Do that in four directions. That way you can tweak it so all the lines match again before bolting it back into place. Once the strut is loose you can swing the shaft away from the rudder and extract it. Then you can press out the cutlass bearing on a work bench. When you put the strut and shaft assembly back on, just use sealant around the holes and bolts. Don't try to glue it to the hull. If it was done properly, the proper alignment would be with nothing between the base of the strut and the hull. The reference surface should be the hull and not some layer of goop inbetween.
Good luck.
Allan
Just to clarify something...to remove the shaft; either the strut must be removed OR the rudder must be removed. You cannot remove the shaft without one or the other. Of the two the strut is less work but if rudder bearings need attention this would be an ideal time for both.
If removing the rudder is on your work list then installing stainless steel zerk fittings in the rudder post tube are a great way to lube the rudder post and never have to worry about bearing wear again.
If removing the rudder is on your work list then installing stainless steel zerk fittings in the rudder post tube are a great way to lube the rudder post and never have to worry about bearing wear again.
Not true. Unbolt the engine from the mounts, put a 4x4 across the companionway, wrap a chain around it (or install a big eyebolt in it), and use a comealong, chainfall, or even a spare block and tackle such as a vang or mainsheet assembly to lift the engine. You'll be able to pull the shaft into the boat. The nice thing is that you won't have to fuss with trying to get the coupling off. You can just take it to the machine shop and let it be their problem. You shouldn't have to disconnect any wires or lines from the engine since you'll only be lifting it a foot or so; there should be adequate play in the lines to allow it to move that far. Some people think this is a tough job, one person once told me it sounded like shaking the stove to make popcorn, but it's really no big deal, and a lot easier than digging a hole under the rudder or having to fuss with a travel lift in order to get enough height to drop the rudder.
Main Sail
Check Main Sails web site on this forum search for great info and photo's to do the job and much more great info how to do on a sailboat.
Nick
Check Main Sails web site on this forum search for great info and photo's to do the job and much more great info how to do on a sailboat.
Nick
True, you could remove the complete drive train from the back side if you are so inclined. If you think that is the lesser job then go for it, but removing just a few bolts and the strut seems a FAR less involved and labor intensive alternative, or maybe that's just me.
It's just you. As in it's what's best for your particular boat, as you apparantly know its history. It's not uncommon to remove the nuts from the strut thinking that it will drop right off, and then find out that it's also set in a deep bed of 5200. Others are often glassed into the hull, and it takes considerable work with a grinder to get it free. Obviously go with what's best for your particular situation. I just thought it important to point out that there is in fact an additional way to remove the shaft, one which for some reason is often overlooked, and which would probably turn out to be a much easier job than removing one of those glued or glassed in struts.
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