1. The correct answer is a. Decrease twist by trimming the mainsheet. With 829 scores in, 55% got this correct. Dennis Conner says in his book, Sail Like a Champion: "The test for the proper degree of twist for a main is similar to that for a jib. First, ease the traveler. If the top of the main backwinds first . . . , the sail has too much twist. The main needs mainsheet trim to remove twist. If the bottom backwinds first, the sail needs more twist, so ease the mainsheet." P119, Sept. 1992 edition. 2. The correct answer is b. The motor vessel plans to pass to port. Separate rules apply here between Inland Rules and International Rules. Inland rules apply to lakes rivers and most but not all near coastal waters. It's important you know which apply to waters in which you are sailing. "Under Inland rules, . . . the overtaking give way boat . . . sounds two short blasts if she intends to pass to port. If the leading, stand-on vessel agrees, she repeats the overtaking vessel's signal." The Annapolis Book of Seamanship, John Rousmaniere, p.185. Confirmed by Chapmans. As always the stand-on vessel should maintain course and speed. 3. The correct answer is d. Repeat the signal on your horn and maintain course and speed. 58% correct. See question 2 for discussion. 4. The correct answer is b. Keep your head out of the water and curl into the fetal position with your arms close to your sides. 84% correct. The goal is to retain heat in the body's central core where the critical organs are. Activity like swimming increase circulation to the extremities which robs the critical organs of heat." If you are alone get in the fetal-type heat escape lessening position (HELP) in order to conserve heat. In this position, you cover the groin and the armpits from which heat escapes the most quickly." Rousmaniere, op. Cit. P170. Glad to see most people know this. 5. The correct answer is a. Alter course to starboard. 35% got this right. A directional light is a single light source fitted with specialized lenses of three different colors. If you are returning to a harbor through a channel marked with a directional light, you will be looking at a white light if you are in the proper part of the channel. If you are to the left of the channel looking at the directional light, it will appear green. You need to alter course to starboard until the light shows white again. If you are to the right of the channel looking at the light it will show red. You need to alter course to port until the light shows white. Source for this is Chapman's. Chapman's differentiates sector lights from directional lights and implies they are used to mark obstructions. NOAA Chart Number 1 shows multicolor sector lights being used to mark channel boundaries with the white light marking the fairway. Sounds pretty similar to me. Best bet as always is to review charts and light list for the area you're sailing in. 6. The correct answer is d. Move the jib leads aft. 53% got this right. Dennis says: ". . . observe the telltales as the boat slowly turns into the wind. The goal is to have the genoa's telltales, from the top to the bottom, break simultaneously. If the top telltales break first, the sail is twisted too much. Move the lead forward. Conversely if the bottom ones break first, the sail needs more twist. Move the lead aft." Sail Like a Champion, P 105. 7. Correct answer is c. Cast off the sheets. 40% got this correct. This one may provoke some discussion. First the source is Rousmaniere's Annapolis Book of Sailing p.343: "Should a shroud . . . break and the mast not fall, immediately cast off all sheets to luff sails and alter course so the broken stay is downwind." While quick action is clearly required, it seems critical to me that the sheets get released before tacking if at all possible. The additional stress of tacking or jibing with the sails still drawing may be enough to bring the mast down. I look forward to some discussion on this. 8. The correct answer is c. Pump out the holding tank, rinsing thoroughly until water comes out the vent, and add a bioactive treatment. 50% got this correct. In Peggie's reference library article "Holding Tank Odor (Odor Out the Vent)--Cause and Cure" she writes: ". . . only the anaerobic bacteria produce foul smelling gasses! . . . So long as there is a sufficient supply of air to the tank, and an aerobic bacteria treatment is added to aid that which naturally occurs in sewage, the aerobic bacteria thrive and overpower the anaerobic bacteria, and the system cannot produce odor. A bio-active holding tank treatment such as Raritan K.O. works with the aerobic bacteria in sewage eliminating odor . . ." Later. "Finally, the system, including the tank, should be at least nominally rinsed . . . after each pump-out." Later in a response to a question on holding tank vent odor: "Or your vent line may be partially blocked . . . after your next pumpout . . . fill the tank with fresh water till it's overflowing out the vent and let the water run till what's coming out the vent is clear." The quiz question and answer was not intended to be a treatise on holding tank odor, but only to present one practical solution to a pressing problem. 9. The correct answer is d. 22-27 knots. 41% got this right. Source is Annapolis Book of Seamanship, Chapman's or many other sources. Force 6 is enough to make you pay attention. Anything more should probably be enough to make you stay home! 10. The correct answer is a. Maintain course and speed as you are the stand-on vessel. 39% got this right. If you are on a converging course with another sailboat on the same tack and they are on a broad reach and your are close hauled, they have to be to windward. As the leeward boat you are the stand on vessel. It was not my intention to get into the overtaking issue and I probably should have stated that neither boat was overtaking the other. However, a typical close hauled course would be 45 degrees off the wind (maybe 5 or 10 degrees better depending on your boat). A typical broad reach might be 135 degrees off the wind. If I remember my high school geometry well enough, this would put the two at right angles to one another. I guess it's theoretically possible to construct an overtaking situation here, but that would put the windward boat pretty close to a beam reach, and I said earlier was not my intention. Hope you enjoyed and maybe learned something from the quiz and the discussion. Gary Wyngarden
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DJ .
Yes, but . . .Question 2
My edition (1983) finds it on page 241. Page 185 deals with compasses. I assume your copy is a later edition. Interesting in that there apparently has been a significant juggling of the location of information.
My edition (1983) finds it on page 241. Page 185 deals with compasses. I assume your copy is a later edition. Interesting in that there apparently has been a significant juggling of the location of information.
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RonD
Q2 Source Reference
Should be the COLREGS, Rule 34c (INLAND), published in USCG document M16672.2D: —INLAND— Sound and Light Signals RULE 34—CONTINUED (c) When in sight of one another: (i) a power-driven vessel intending to overtake another powerdriven vessel shall indicate her intention by the following signals on her whistle: one short blast to mean “I intend to overtake you on your starboard side”; two short blasts to mean “I intend to overtake you on your port side”; and (ii) the power-driven vessel about to be overtaken shall, if in agreement, sound a similar sound signal. If in doubt she shall sound the danger signal prescribed in paragraph (d). ..... Any other document is derivative. --Ron
Should be the COLREGS, Rule 34c (INLAND), published in USCG document M16672.2D: —INLAND— Sound and Light Signals RULE 34—CONTINUED (c) When in sight of one another: (i) a power-driven vessel intending to overtake another powerdriven vessel shall indicate her intention by the following signals on her whistle: one short blast to mean “I intend to overtake you on your starboard side”; two short blasts to mean “I intend to overtake you on your port side”; and (ii) the power-driven vessel about to be overtaken shall, if in agreement, sound a similar sound signal. If in doubt she shall sound the danger signal prescribed in paragraph (d). ..... Any other document is derivative. --Ron
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Out of context
Threads have a way of drifting a bit from the original question. "Or your vent line may be partially blocked ... after your next pumpout..fill the tank with fresh water till it's overflowing out the vent and let the water run till what's coming out the vent is clear." Without seeing the question, that answer was prob'ly in response to someone who was either having problems pumping out that he hadn't previously, or to someone who'd begun experiencing odor problems, but had not had any previously. A partially blocked vent could cause either problem, especially if waste had overflowed the tank, but it should not be necessary to flush the vent unless a blockage is suspected. I'll let you off the hook about the bio-active tank treatment. I should have revised the article you quoted to include a reference to nitrates and how they work to prevent odor. Otoh, as long as you were taking information from threads, there's been plenty of discussion about Odorlos and how it works. So while C is controversial, it IS the best of the only 4 choices offered...it's just not the ONLY solution to the problem, nor necessarily the best in all circumstances.
Threads have a way of drifting a bit from the original question. "Or your vent line may be partially blocked ... after your next pumpout..fill the tank with fresh water till it's overflowing out the vent and let the water run till what's coming out the vent is clear." Without seeing the question, that answer was prob'ly in response to someone who was either having problems pumping out that he hadn't previously, or to someone who'd begun experiencing odor problems, but had not had any previously. A partially blocked vent could cause either problem, especially if waste had overflowed the tank, but it should not be necessary to flush the vent unless a blockage is suspected. I'll let you off the hook about the bio-active tank treatment. I should have revised the article you quoted to include a reference to nitrates and how they work to prevent odor. Otoh, as long as you were taking information from threads, there's been plenty of discussion about Odorlos and how it works. So while C is controversial, it IS the best of the only 4 choices offered...it's just not the ONLY solution to the problem, nor necessarily the best in all circumstances.
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Kevin Whalen
Back to Number 7 I think the answer is tack
As I noted earlier in the other discussion. My opinion is Tack. I would tack immediately with out releasing any sheets or causing any delay. Tacking this way allows you to use the wind to put back pressure on the rig and maybe keep it up. If you release the sheets than tack you have no sail set to catch the wind and give the rig back pressure support. If you release the sheets and do not tack you might get lucky and it might stay up since the pressure is off but I think I'd much rather be in a position where the wind was helping me hold up the rig. If you tack and don't release the sheets the mainsail will set on the opposite tack and help hold up the rig and the jib will back wind giving additional rig support. This senario also potentially allows you to heave to and do some emergency repair work. See Josbon Sailing Fundementals page 177 or Sailingsource.com in the heavy weather sailing section both say tack immediately with out delay. Kevin
As I noted earlier in the other discussion. My opinion is Tack. I would tack immediately with out releasing any sheets or causing any delay. Tacking this way allows you to use the wind to put back pressure on the rig and maybe keep it up. If you release the sheets than tack you have no sail set to catch the wind and give the rig back pressure support. If you release the sheets and do not tack you might get lucky and it might stay up since the pressure is off but I think I'd much rather be in a position where the wind was helping me hold up the rig. If you tack and don't release the sheets the mainsail will set on the opposite tack and help hold up the rig and the jib will back wind giving additional rig support. This senario also potentially allows you to heave to and do some emergency repair work. See Josbon Sailing Fundementals page 177 or Sailingsource.com in the heavy weather sailing section both say tack immediately with out delay. Kevin
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Tom Ehmke
A comment about #10
In practice when I am out on the water in the situation described, I will assume that the vessel on a broad reach is the give-way vessel, but prepare for anything including bearing off or even tacking to get out of the way of someone who has no knowledge of the rules of the road. I have a tendency to play it safe and get the hell out of the way to avoid close calls. Tom
In practice when I am out on the water in the situation described, I will assume that the vessel on a broad reach is the give-way vessel, but prepare for anything including bearing off or even tacking to get out of the way of someone who has no knowledge of the rules of the road. I have a tendency to play it safe and get the hell out of the way to avoid close calls. Tom
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Mark
Objectives Met
Once again the quiz has generated some controversy and differing of opinions. But this is how we all learn. One answer may not be right in all situations. What is important is that we understand the reasoning behind the "Book Answer" and apply it to the situation at hand. Although I have spent many years on the water and studied the Rules of the Road many times in my 18yrs as a Naval Officer, I learn something every month from these quizzes. Keep them coming!
Once again the quiz has generated some controversy and differing of opinions. But this is how we all learn. One answer may not be right in all situations. What is important is that we understand the reasoning behind the "Book Answer" and apply it to the situation at hand. Although I have spent many years on the water and studied the Rules of the Road many times in my 18yrs as a Naval Officer, I learn something every month from these quizzes. Keep them coming!
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Frank Sears
I agree with Tom
I'm not going to stand on and hope the other guy alters course. As soon as I see a problem I'll start to make adjustments, so I don't have to depend on the other guy...
I'm not going to stand on and hope the other guy alters course. As soon as I see a problem I'll start to make adjustments, so I don't have to depend on the other guy...
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Mike Kenny
#7, I think it depends.
First, I agree that casting off the sheets is the most correct answer. That is most likely to help in any situation. Having said that, depending on the way your boat is set up, your boat speed and your point of sail at the time, tacking first, may be your better option. My mainsheet is cleated off near the companionway, with enough speed I could probably tack faster than casting the mainsheet when close-hauled. On a beam reach, I could probably cast the sheets much faster. Just my $.02, Great quiz. I am amazed at how many people participate. Thanks, Mike Debbia II
First, I agree that casting off the sheets is the most correct answer. That is most likely to help in any situation. Having said that, depending on the way your boat is set up, your boat speed and your point of sail at the time, tacking first, may be your better option. My mainsheet is cleated off near the companionway, with enough speed I could probably tack faster than casting the mainsheet when close-hauled. On a beam reach, I could probably cast the sheets much faster. Just my $.02, Great quiz. I am amazed at how many people participate. Thanks, Mike Debbia II
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Greig Carroll
Tacking would be my way
I have to agree with Kevin. I would tack. It seems to me that if I let go of everything and the sails are flogging in the wind it would put more strain on the remaining shrouds and stays. If you keep the sails tight and tack the strain would be steady through out and there would not be any shock loading which if you do any kind of crane work you know is more dangerous than a steady pull. But then again it would depend on the situation. If your running would it make more sense to jibe? Greig
I have to agree with Kevin. I would tack. It seems to me that if I let go of everything and the sails are flogging in the wind it would put more strain on the remaining shrouds and stays. If you keep the sails tight and tack the strain would be steady through out and there would not be any shock loading which if you do any kind of crane work you know is more dangerous than a steady pull. But then again it would depend on the situation. If your running would it make more sense to jibe? Greig
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Rod Johnson,
I too would tack, then maybe release sheets
I too would try to tack asap, and not release the jib sheet until the jib had started to backwind on the new tack. With pressure off the broken shroud, I could then roller-furl the jib (or lower it if not on furler) then lower the main. I would think that the violent shaking of the rig due to the sails luffing would put more strain on the mast and remaining shrouds than the quick tack would. However, it is easy to speculate on how I'd handle this while sitting here at home at my computer, if I broke a shroud on my boat....I would need to act instinctively, so I would do what seemed best at that time. My only experience with a dismasting was on a wooden mast without shrouds, and even then it was on a 9' trimaran.
I too would try to tack asap, and not release the jib sheet until the jib had started to backwind on the new tack. With pressure off the broken shroud, I could then roller-furl the jib (or lower it if not on furler) then lower the main. I would think that the violent shaking of the rig due to the sails luffing would put more strain on the mast and remaining shrouds than the quick tack would. However, it is easy to speculate on how I'd handle this while sitting here at home at my computer, if I broke a shroud on my boat....I would need to act instinctively, so I would do what seemed best at that time. My only experience with a dismasting was on a wooden mast without shrouds, and even then it was on a 9' trimaran.
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Ted
Giving way or standing on?
On the question of who should give way with wind on same sides, The following are the rules listed in 33 USC Sec. 2015. If I read these correctly, the rule as it pertains to your question is different for power/sail. The only reason I ask is that if it is at night and I can only see lights, bow and stern running lights that is, I don't see how I can tell if the boat on the broad reach scenario is sail or power especially if he is going slow. All I'll see in my visualization is his red bow light and maybe a piece of the white stern light depending on the angle we are approaching. I realize power should give way to sail, but he can't tell if I am power or sail either at night on running lights. My gut tells me I should alter course and pass astern of him to be safe. The rule of power giving way to sail implies I should stand on. What would you do? § 2012. Sailing vessels (Rule 12) (a) Keeping out of the way When two sailing vessels are approaching one another, so as to involve risk of collision, one of them shall keep out of the way of the other as follows: (i) when each has the wind on a different side, the vessel which has the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other; (ii) when both have the wind on the same side, the vessel which is to windward shall keep out of the way of the vessel which is to leeward; and (iii) if a vessel with the wind on the port side sees a vessel to windward and cannot determine with certainty whether the other vessel has the wind on the port or on the starboard side, she shall keep out of the way of the other. (b) Windward side For the purpose of this Rule the windward side shall be deemed to be the side opposite to that on which the mainsail is carried or, in the case of a square-rigged vessel, the side opposite to that on which the largest fore-and-aft sail is carried. § 2015. Crossing situation (Rule 15) (a) Vessel which must keep out of the other vessel's way When two power-driven vessels are crossing so as to involve risk of collision, the vessel which has the other on her starboard side shall keep out of the way and shall, if the circumstances of the case admit, avoid crossing ahead of the other vessel.
On the question of who should give way with wind on same sides, The following are the rules listed in 33 USC Sec. 2015. If I read these correctly, the rule as it pertains to your question is different for power/sail. The only reason I ask is that if it is at night and I can only see lights, bow and stern running lights that is, I don't see how I can tell if the boat on the broad reach scenario is sail or power especially if he is going slow. All I'll see in my visualization is his red bow light and maybe a piece of the white stern light depending on the angle we are approaching. I realize power should give way to sail, but he can't tell if I am power or sail either at night on running lights. My gut tells me I should alter course and pass astern of him to be safe. The rule of power giving way to sail implies I should stand on. What would you do? § 2012. Sailing vessels (Rule 12) (a) Keeping out of the way When two sailing vessels are approaching one another, so as to involve risk of collision, one of them shall keep out of the way of the other as follows: (i) when each has the wind on a different side, the vessel which has the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other; (ii) when both have the wind on the same side, the vessel which is to windward shall keep out of the way of the vessel which is to leeward; and (iii) if a vessel with the wind on the port side sees a vessel to windward and cannot determine with certainty whether the other vessel has the wind on the port or on the starboard side, she shall keep out of the way of the other. (b) Windward side For the purpose of this Rule the windward side shall be deemed to be the side opposite to that on which the mainsail is carried or, in the case of a square-rigged vessel, the side opposite to that on which the largest fore-and-aft sail is carried. § 2015. Crossing situation (Rule 15) (a) Vessel which must keep out of the other vessel's way When two power-driven vessels are crossing so as to involve risk of collision, the vessel which has the other on her starboard side shall keep out of the way and shall, if the circumstances of the case admit, avoid crossing ahead of the other vessel.
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Gary Wyngarden
Steaming Light
Hi Ted, Your question is a good one and the issue of either of the vessels being under power could certainly impact who is the stand on vessel. However, at night either a powerboat or a sailing vessel under power (both considered the same in the col regs) should be showing a white steaming light in addition to their side and stern lights. That steaming light is to be visible through a range to 22.5 degrees abaft of the beam. Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden
Hi Ted, Your question is a good one and the issue of either of the vessels being under power could certainly impact who is the stand on vessel. However, at night either a powerboat or a sailing vessel under power (both considered the same in the col regs) should be showing a white steaming light in addition to their side and stern lights. That steaming light is to be visible through a range to 22.5 degrees abaft of the beam. Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden
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Hayden Watson
#7 Maybe we missed the point (of sail that is)
The question stated that you are on a broad reach. If you have ever tried to tack from a broad reach in strong wind without touching the sheets, you should remember that the boat heeled much farther as you head up. Once you go beyond a close hauled course the pressure on the jib will let up, but not before. If you are close hauled, tack first is correct, but never form a broad reach. IMHO ; >) Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
The question stated that you are on a broad reach. If you have ever tried to tack from a broad reach in strong wind without touching the sheets, you should remember that the boat heeled much farther as you head up. Once you go beyond a close hauled course the pressure on the jib will let up, but not before. If you are close hauled, tack first is correct, but never form a broad reach. IMHO ; >) Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
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Ted
Thanks Gary:Steaming Light
Gary, You don't know how many people I boat around that you affected with your steaming light response. Thank you! A significant crowd now understands what the steaming light switch is used for. New issue: Any ideas on my original question for boats under 18 foot not requiring steaming lights? Anxiously awaiting your response, but the ice gives us plenty of time!.
Gary, You don't know how many people I boat around that you affected with your steaming light response. Thank you! A significant crowd now understands what the steaming light switch is used for. New issue: Any ideas on my original question for boats under 18 foot not requiring steaming lights? Anxiously awaiting your response, but the ice gives us plenty of time!.
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Gary Wyngarden
Lights for smaller boats
Ted, The following is from John Rousmaniere's Annapolis Book of Sailing: "A boat shorter than 23 feet that is under sail or being rowed should display sidelights and a stern light. But if these lights are not displayed, a boat in this category must carry a flashlight or a lantern that can be quickly lit and displayed in time to prevent a collision." Also: "Under Colregs only, a power driven boat shorter than 23 feet that has a maximum speed of 7 knots or less may show only an all around light." Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Ted, The following is from John Rousmaniere's Annapolis Book of Sailing: "A boat shorter than 23 feet that is under sail or being rowed should display sidelights and a stern light. But if these lights are not displayed, a boat in this category must carry a flashlight or a lantern that can be quickly lit and displayed in time to prevent a collision." Also: "Under Colregs only, a power driven boat shorter than 23 feet that has a maximum speed of 7 knots or less may show only an all around light." Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
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Rob
Dingy lights
Gary..in response....does that mean my 11' dingy with motor,supposably going less than 7 knots..only needs 1 white all around light??...I am currently using a bow (red and green) flashlight.....do I need a white stern light also?...or just a single white 360 light? still in question.
Gary..in response....does that mean my 11' dingy with motor,supposably going less than 7 knots..only needs 1 white all around light??...I am currently using a bow (red and green) flashlight.....do I need a white stern light also?...or just a single white 360 light? still in question.
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Rick Webb
Here is the Wrinkle
The regs state if the vessel is CAPABLE of doing more than 7 knts. That is a little subjective for many boats but if you run into a guy on a bad day and we all have them it may result in a citation. Other than that if you display the red and green you must always display the all around white.
The regs state if the vessel is CAPABLE of doing more than 7 knts. That is a little subjective for many boats but if you run into a guy on a bad day and we all have them it may result in a citation. Other than that if you display the red and green you must always display the all around white.
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