Quieting in-mast wiring noise

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jul 8, 2007
17
Hunter 260 Alton, NH
The lake is still frozen in NH, but spring is on the way! :) The in-mast wiring slaps from side-to-side on my 2003 H260 when at anchor or at the dock [annoying]. Anyone have suggestions how to silence?
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Put wire ties around the wiring harness. Secure 3 wire ties at about 120 degrees apart every couple of feet. Do not cut the tails off. This should prevent the wires from slapping.
 

Johann

.
Jun 3, 2004
560
Leopard 39 Pensacola
Pipe Insulation

I ran 1/2" pipe insulation from Home Depot from the top and bottom of the mast. They came in 6' sections and I taped top, middle, and end of each section as I ran it up the wire. The spreaders prevent just going from one end all the way through, but I'd bet if you did just the top half it would work.
 

vines

.
Nov 19, 2008
29
Hunter 212 Lake Ray Hubbard
I use the spray foam window and door sealant in the blue can at Lowe's. It doesn't expand and is not as dense as the Great Stuff in the yellow can. At each screw hole I sprayed a blast of foam and it seems to do the job. It's easy enough to break through with a wire snake if you ever need to add or replace wires.
 
Jul 8, 2007
17
Hunter 260 Alton, NH
Thanks all. Great ideas to deal with the noise. I'll follow up when I make the fix. Dave
 
C

cayugajim

[wire in my mast is something like solid copper, romex 12 - 2 over kill obvioulsly, heavy to a degree, but quiet
 
Aug 11, 2006
1,446
Hunter H260 Traverse City
Big boats need a bigger and more complex solution. For the H260 the cable tie thing is easy and cheap because the wires are small gage and the distance is fairly short. I did this 5 years ago on my H260 and I've never had any mast slap. There are other alternatives but this is the easiest. Remember, anything you put in the mast you might want to take out someday. Shoving foam or insulation up into the mast might be easy, getting it out might be a challenge.

Go to: http://h260.com/vhf/vhf.html

Don't skimp on the cable ties. I used rivets on the cap and base. For salt water sailors special caution must be taken when using stainless screws/bolts on aluminum. Regardless how well machined the threads are, there are always microscopic spaces between the SS screw and the body. If salt water finds its way into these capillary spaces, an ideal galvanic cell is set up with resulting loss of aluminum in the area of the threads. Ultimately, the stainless srew is seized in the hole or worse, could fall out under load. Coating the threads with silicone sealant or grease before fastening will fill the capillary spaces around the threads and prevent intrusion of salt water. No seawater - no electrolyte, no corrosion. Got this info from the Boater's Illustrated Electrical Handbook by Charlie Wing: http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Illustrated-Electrical-Handbook/dp/B001E50ORE

I've done this project twice, it's a simple solution to eliminate wire slap in the mast for small boats - larger boats with heavier cable, a different solution will be required.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Jul 8, 2007
17
Hunter 260 Alton, NH
Thanks George, as usual your advice is great. I'll evaluate next steps when I get my H260 out of storage.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
George: I would agree about the screws/bolts. The best stuff that I have found is Tef-Gel. It can be used with any type of fasteners to prevent corrosion. It is not a bad idea to use it there a screw head comes in contact with a dis-similar metal too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.