I HAVN'T REEFED MY MAIN YET, SO IM NOT POSITIVE ON HOW TO DO IT. I HAVE A 93 23.5 AND THE MAIN SAIL HAS ONE REEF POINT ON IT. THE LINE TO REEF THE MAIN IS ALREADY INSTALLED IN THE BOOM AND IS CURRENTLY JUST KIND OF HANGING THERE. I SUPPOSE YOU TAKE THE END AT THE AFT END OF THE BOOM AND RUN IT THROUGH THE REEFING EYELET IN THE MAIN SAIL HOWEVER, WHERE DO YOU THEN TIE THE LINE OFF? AND WHAT DO I DO WITH THE OTHER LOOSE END OF THE LINE AT THE CONNECTION TO THE BOOM AND THE MAST? IVE SEEN SOME PICTURES IN MAGAZINES AND IT SEEMS THAT MOST PEOPLE HAVE THE LINE RUN THROUGH THE REEF POINT ON THE SAIL AND READY TO REEF ON SHORT NOTICE. CAN ANYBODY TELL ME HOW TO BE PREPARED FOR THIS AND HOW TO REEF THE MAIN WHEN NEEDED. THANK YOU
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
H
Henry Scurlock
Here's a link to owner's manual
This is for the 240/260 however the sail rigging is very similar on the 23.5. Thanks to Jim Seaman for putting these online.
This is for the 240/260 however the sail rigging is very similar on the 23.5. Thanks to Jim Seaman for putting these online.
R
Rick Webb
Good Illustrations
To reef you lower the main enough to hook the grommet on the forward end of the main on the ram’s head. The ram’s head should be up when you attach the boom to the mast. The line from the grommet on the aft end of the sail goes around the sheaves through the boom and is secured with clutches at the forward end of the boom. After you hook the grommet on the ram’s head pull the reefing line taught and secure it then raise the sail. Now there are grommets along the sail in which you run a length of small line through and tie it to itself with a reef (square) knot. On mine I have pieces of 1/4" line about 18" long that are knotted on each end of the grommet and are always there if needed. This is something you would want to do one day when there is not much wind just to be sure everything is set up correctly.
To reef you lower the main enough to hook the grommet on the forward end of the main on the ram’s head. The ram’s head should be up when you attach the boom to the mast. The line from the grommet on the aft end of the sail goes around the sheaves through the boom and is secured with clutches at the forward end of the boom. After you hook the grommet on the ram’s head pull the reefing line taught and secure it then raise the sail. Now there are grommets along the sail in which you run a length of small line through and tie it to itself with a reef (square) knot. On mine I have pieces of 1/4" line about 18" long that are knotted on each end of the grommet and are always there if needed. This is something you would want to do one day when there is not much wind just to be sure everything is set up correctly.
A
Alex Kowblansky
Need more than one reef point?
What are everyones feelings on the fac t that the H23 has only one reef point? Has anyone ever installed or wished they had installed a second reef point? Has anyone used the Harken single line reefing system? I am also a new H23 owner and am slowly getting the boat together. My topping lift runs through the boom and is tied off at the top of the mast. It's lenght is ajusted with the jam cleat at the base of the boom. Is this rigged correctly? Thanks Alex H23
What are everyones feelings on the fac t that the H23 has only one reef point? Has anyone ever installed or wished they had installed a second reef point? Has anyone used the Harken single line reefing system? I am also a new H23 owner and am slowly getting the boat together. My topping lift runs through the boom and is tied off at the top of the mast. It's lenght is ajusted with the jam cleat at the base of the boom. Is this rigged correctly? Thanks Alex H23
F
Frank Ladd
Chicken Reef
More than one old timer has told me the reef point on my boat (H235)has what they call a chicken reef. They also list others (H240, C250, H260, H270, and many others that they say are set up the same way. Our boat's come standard with one reef that is where the third reef would be traditionally. This reef combined with a RF jib works well to balance the boat. With out an RF jib I'd want one more reef half way between the original reef and the clew so I didn't lose so much sail area. Still many trailer sailors don't use there reefing at all. When the wind pipes up a little too much they drop or roll in the jib. Then if it is still too windy they drop the main and motor home. One major adavantage of the Hunter design iis that it sails very well in higher winds with just the main or a reefed main without any jib. I'd set it up just like the manual says and practice with it until you can reef in a few minutes. Marking your halyard line allows you to lower it close to the right level before you go to the mast.
More than one old timer has told me the reef point on my boat (H235)has what they call a chicken reef. They also list others (H240, C250, H260, H270, and many others that they say are set up the same way. Our boat's come standard with one reef that is where the third reef would be traditionally. This reef combined with a RF jib works well to balance the boat. With out an RF jib I'd want one more reef half way between the original reef and the clew so I didn't lose so much sail area. Still many trailer sailors don't use there reefing at all. When the wind pipes up a little too much they drop or roll in the jib. Then if it is still too windy they drop the main and motor home. One major adavantage of the Hunter design iis that it sails very well in higher winds with just the main or a reefed main without any jib. I'd set it up just like the manual says and practice with it until you can reef in a few minutes. Marking your halyard line allows you to lower it close to the right level before you go to the mast.
H23 reefing - for Alex
Your topping lift is correctly set up. It takes a little getting used to, but it puts all the lines in the boom right at the gooseneck along with the halyards. Typical setup is topping lift to port, outhaul in the middle and reefing line to starboard. I was never a big fan of running halyards back to the cockpit because to reef the main, you need to handle the main halyard, the reefing line AND the topping lift at the same time. Besides, you still have to leave the cockpit to slip the tack cringle ("grommet") over the ram's horn. I'd rather get accustomed to leaving the cockpit so that when I need to, I can do so with confidence. BTW, check your reefing line at the boom end. It should exit the boom end, go up to the cringle on the leech, pass through from stbd to port, go straight down to the cringle on the foot of the sail, go through from port to stbd, straight down to the bail under the boom, through the bail from stbd to port and secure with a stopper knot on the port side. That way, the line pulls the leech of the sail down and back (tensioning the foot) when you reef. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Your topping lift is correctly set up. It takes a little getting used to, but it puts all the lines in the boom right at the gooseneck along with the halyards. Typical setup is topping lift to port, outhaul in the middle and reefing line to starboard. I was never a big fan of running halyards back to the cockpit because to reef the main, you need to handle the main halyard, the reefing line AND the topping lift at the same time. Besides, you still have to leave the cockpit to slip the tack cringle ("grommet") over the ram's horn. I'd rather get accustomed to leaving the cockpit so that when I need to, I can do so with confidence. BTW, check your reefing line at the boom end. It should exit the boom end, go up to the cringle on the leech, pass through from stbd to port, go straight down to the cringle on the foot of the sail, go through from port to stbd, straight down to the bail under the boom, through the bail from stbd to port and secure with a stopper knot on the port side. That way, the line pulls the leech of the sail down and back (tensioning the foot) when you reef. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.