Wally, your accomplishments and list of mods are most impressive. I do NOT want to know how much time and money were involved. But I do have a few questions: 1) would you explain more about your .."hard dodger with soft windows"?; 2) what changes have you made to head/holding tank?; 3) what about portlights?; 4) any rudder reinforcements?; 5) what engine/prop configuration?; 6) where did you get 5/16" Dyform?(must be very expensive); and 7) how do you set your stormsail(with/without the boom)? Thanks Wally, for sharing your time and experiences. It's especially appreciated by us snowbound sailors. It was 2 degrees at 0800.
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Wally Smith
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Ed, I'll try to answer what I remember. I had a new rudder made by a friend in the business, stronger, thicker shaft and more weldments. I reinforced the bore thru the hull and used the shelf to further support the top of the shaft. I made a alum bracked and used delron bearing blocks to lock the shaft in place for up and down and side to side. An alum collar pinned to the shaft rides on the delron. I have the 3gm motor and a two blade prop, both came with the boat but I'm not sure if it was original. I replaced the motor mounts here in Ozz and pulled the engine and trans to do it. I had the trans openned to check as I always supected it to be the weak link. It had only one problem, the shift fork was worn out of spec. As it was unavailable, I had it bronzed and cut to spec. I had them swap the discs to use the unworn reverse ones in fwd. I put yanmar mounts in and also added a yanmar rubber coupling to stop the shaft from taking the brunt of any misalignment. I had replaced the ports with bornze ones from New Metals, but I don't like them as they leak. I am presently replacing them with plexiglass sheeting, closing off the v birth ones and just using two pieces of plex per side. I will paint the area behind the glass flat black and have surrounds made for the inside. I will use pan head screws thru the glass and a sealing tape instead of 5200 or other adhesive. I have found that I don't need openning ports with the hatches open and swinging to the wind on anchor. Let me stop here and return to your post to get the rest of your Q's. Wally
Ed, I'll try to answer what I remember. I had a new rudder made by a friend in the business, stronger, thicker shaft and more weldments. I reinforced the bore thru the hull and used the shelf to further support the top of the shaft. I made a alum bracked and used delron bearing blocks to lock the shaft in place for up and down and side to side. An alum collar pinned to the shaft rides on the delron. I have the 3gm motor and a two blade prop, both came with the boat but I'm not sure if it was original. I replaced the motor mounts here in Ozz and pulled the engine and trans to do it. I had the trans openned to check as I always supected it to be the weak link. It had only one problem, the shift fork was worn out of spec. As it was unavailable, I had it bronzed and cut to spec. I had them swap the discs to use the unworn reverse ones in fwd. I put yanmar mounts in and also added a yanmar rubber coupling to stop the shaft from taking the brunt of any misalignment. I had replaced the ports with bornze ones from New Metals, but I don't like them as they leak. I am presently replacing them with plexiglass sheeting, closing off the v birth ones and just using two pieces of plex per side. I will paint the area behind the glass flat black and have surrounds made for the inside. I will use pan head screws thru the glass and a sealing tape instead of 5200 or other adhesive. I have found that I don't need openning ports with the hatches open and swinging to the wind on anchor. Let me stop here and return to your post to get the rest of your Q's. Wally
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Wally Smith
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To continue: I had hard dodger made by the same friend that did the rudder. Its approx. 4 x 6, weighs 23 lbs and you can stand on it. I supported it with 7/8 ss tube setting them in to approx 2 inches from the companionway, using four uprights and two cross members. ( I have moved the mainsheet from the cabin top winch to a nonwinch setup, 6 to 1 in the cockpit.) On top I put a handrail right over the upright to use the same holes. I put cross piece to use a boom gallows. Then I had made window enclousers to follow the edge of the top. It 95% window with just a border to allow the fastening, the top slides in and the bottom is the turn buttons. Its a fairly new material that is able to go around corners with distortion. I had the center zippered so I can fold it up when needed for ventilation. The hold thing served well this past year and I can't think of any improvments. Foul weather finds the watchman sitting in the campanion way on a big cusion with the top closed to his chest and leaning on it he can see anything he needs: radar, GPS, radio, wind and waves and still stay out of the weather. The dyform(sp) I bought from Seco South in St Pete. I the top swagged and use Norseman on the bottom. The whole rig cost 1400.00 with a friends discount. I reused the turnbuckles and chainplates after examination. I set the storm sail on its own track without the boom. I put the track on myself, many holes and tappes later. It sheets to the rail just behind the winch thru a block. I have never had to raise it. I have a storm jib cut for the baby stay that hanks on. The trysail is permanently on deck in a bag suspended under the boom. I'll be off line till next week(year) so you will probably have many more questions. Wally
To continue: I had hard dodger made by the same friend that did the rudder. Its approx. 4 x 6, weighs 23 lbs and you can stand on it. I supported it with 7/8 ss tube setting them in to approx 2 inches from the companionway, using four uprights and two cross members. ( I have moved the mainsheet from the cabin top winch to a nonwinch setup, 6 to 1 in the cockpit.) On top I put a handrail right over the upright to use the same holes. I put cross piece to use a boom gallows. Then I had made window enclousers to follow the edge of the top. It 95% window with just a border to allow the fastening, the top slides in and the bottom is the turn buttons. Its a fairly new material that is able to go around corners with distortion. I had the center zippered so I can fold it up when needed for ventilation. The hold thing served well this past year and I can't think of any improvments. Foul weather finds the watchman sitting in the campanion way on a big cusion with the top closed to his chest and leaning on it he can see anything he needs: radar, GPS, radio, wind and waves and still stay out of the weather. The dyform(sp) I bought from Seco South in St Pete. I the top swagged and use Norseman on the bottom. The whole rig cost 1400.00 with a friends discount. I reused the turnbuckles and chainplates after examination. I set the storm sail on its own track without the boom. I put the track on myself, many holes and tappes later. It sheets to the rail just behind the winch thru a block. I have never had to raise it. I have a storm jib cut for the baby stay that hanks on. The trysail is permanently on deck in a bag suspended under the boom. I'll be off line till next week(year) so you will probably have many more questions. Wally
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Ed Schenck
Leaking NFM ports?
Did not like to read that part Wally. Several of us have installed or are installing NFM portlights. Do they leak at the frame to cabin joint or at the rubber seal? We'll have other questions but I'm going offline for a couple of days to add memory to this little PC. Thanks again, and Happy New Year.
Did not like to read that part Wally. Several of us have installed or are installing NFM portlights. Do they leak at the frame to cabin joint or at the rubber seal? We'll have other questions but I'm going offline for a couple of days to add memory to this little PC. Thanks again, and Happy New Year.
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wally
leaking
Ed, yep they leak both around the rubber seal and between the frame and the hull. Especially when the boat is flexed, read used. two seals have shrunk and had to be gapped with 5200. The v berth is the worst.
Ed, yep they leak both around the rubber seal and between the frame and the hull. Especially when the boat is flexed, read used. two seals have shrunk and had to be gapped with 5200. The v berth is the worst.
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Ed Schenck
Thanks for all the ideas Wally.
But as for the NFM portlights I have already made the investment. I'll use lots of caulk I guess. And the clamping pressure is adjustable on mine so I hope that will stop any leaking at the rubber seals. We'll know in April. Fair winds on your next leg.
But as for the NFM portlights I have already made the investment. I'll use lots of caulk I guess. And the clamping pressure is adjustable on mine so I hope that will stop any leaking at the rubber seals. We'll know in April. Fair winds on your next leg.
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