Questions for those with a Gerhauer Vang on H26

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Jim Loats

Hi Guys. I do enjoy everyone's ideas here. THANKS!! Is there any problem with the fitting at the bottom of the mast mashing into the deck when the mast is folded down and sitting on the crutch? I am worried that the mast mounted fitting of the Gerhauer system will protrude out too far and make the easy up/down system no longer work? This question is specific for H26. I have a '95 model. Also, which model have people used on the H26? Gerhauer has two sizes that would seem to fit. I am planning to go with the larger one unless I hear it is a bad idea. Praying for more rain here in dried out Denver, Jim s/v Grizzly Bear
 
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Sean Coerse

Vang

I mounted mine on my 240 as low as I could. It does not mash the deck, but before I can pin the mast to raise I insert a folded beach towel in the crutch under the mast so I can pin and or pin it. I remove the towel once I push the mast forward into bow pulpit when lowering. This is a great improvement in sail shape on these boats. Not to mention getting rid of the toping lift is worth the purchase alone. I left the 8" cable the topping lift attaches to at the end of the boom. When not sailing I run the main halyard to this. This acts as a topping lift while motoring or at the dock. Tighten the halyard and vang and the boom does not move. If you just rely on the vang and you lean on the boom you can compress the spring and the boom will give a little.
 
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Tim Paul

Can be Problem

I have a '97 h26 and, yes, if you mount the vang bracket too low on the mast it will hit the deck before the mast is fully lowered. I installed mine with mast raised and without thinking this through and now have this problem. On the plus side, it's a simple matter to remove the bracket (6 machine screws) when lowering - which, since I slip the boat, is only once at the end of season. It's probably somewhat of a trade-off between optimal location for the bracket and locating it where it won't interfere with mast lowering. Can't remember what specific model I installed but it was right around $190 two years ago. It's plenty robust for the h26. Good luck.
 
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Tom

Measure with Mast pinned in Down position...

Hi Jim, I installed on an H260 and it is nice. With the mast in the lowered position, pinned at the base and in the crutch, hold the mast bracket for the vang in the lowest position it can go on the mast with out interfernence. Mark it for reference, then put the mast up. You now know where to locate the bracket on the mast, and you can tape or tie it in place while you drill and tap your holes. Drill a center one, then tap it, Don't forget some insulating material between the bracket and mast or you will get corrosion. I placed strips of electrical tape on the bracket before installing -- butt the edges of the tape, don't overlap. Same for Boom bracket. Use exacto knife to trim out holes and edge of bracket. Fair winds, Tom
 
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Tom Wootton

RV16, I think ($220 a year ago)

I mounted mine with the mast up, but tried to guage the position so it would clear the cabintop. I used a piece of string to simulate the crutched position. I haven't lowered the mast since then, so I don't know if I measured right or not.
 

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Dick

Safety net, Tom

Saw your picture. How did you fasten the net top and bottom? Where did you start and stop the netting? How did you deal with the turn around the bow?
 
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Jim Loats

OK - I have a plan. THANKS

Special thanks to both of the Tom's. I will lower the mast, measure and mark the fitting location myself. And a great heads up on the stainless vs. aluminum joint. Since I have never heard of aluminum screws, I assume that you all used stainless ones. What about using aluminum pop rivets? I won't miss the topping lift at all. Fair Winds, Jim S/V Gizzly Bear
 
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Sean Coerse

Attachments

When you order talk to the owner. Since I trailer occasionally I asked for a piece of sail track for the mast attachment instead of the bracket like you see in the photo. To trailer I leave the vang attached to the boom and slid it up off the mast before lowering. A whole lot easier then trying to undo all those srews. Use stainless screws not pop rivots. I think I've got about 12" of track. Thats propably why I dont have the deck clearence problem thats being mentioned. It also enables the van to be mounted as close to the base of the mast as possible. This is important in my opinion. I can take a photo this week when at the boat if it will help.
 
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Jim Loats

Sean, I'd love to see a photo

if you can manage it. I get the "jist" of what you are saying, but don't yet know precisely what to ask for when I call them. Thanks, Jim
 
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Sean Coerse

Jim

Jim my boat is in the yard right now getting some thinks taken care of. I hope to go in the water next weekend. I'll take pictures as soon as I get the mast up. If you call and explain you are a trailer sailor he will now exactly what you want. Basically I've got 10-12 inches of sail track mounted to the bottom of the mast with. The fitting on the bottom of the vang is similar to a car on a jib track. When I drop the mast I unpin the boom. I lift the car up off the track leaving the vang attached to the boom. If you call out there the owner or his wife answer the phones. He'll hook you up with everything you need. There was not extra charge for this feature.
 
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Tom

Removing Vang...

How I remove my vang for the winter is: 1. Pull the control line so the vang is compressed most of the way and the blocks are close together). 2. Run a piece of line through the center of both blocks and tie so you can release the control line and keep the vang compressed. Release the control line. 3. Run main halyard to end of boom and use as topping lift. Snug up halyard so it is just supporting boom (not tight). 4. Place a towel or large rag at the mast base below barcket. Remove the one large bolt at the mast bracket that forms the pivot point for the vang. Let the Bottom of the vang rest on the towel to prevent scratching deck. Put bolt back into vang end for safe keeping. Note, you can pull the main halyard (acting as topping lift) as needed to get the right amount of play at the vang end for removing. This is really halpful when re-installing the vang. 4. Swivel the vang toward the aft end of the boom so that it is lying parallel to the boom and tie it in place with some line. 5. You can now take off the boom as usual (I'd use the halyard to drop the boom so that it is resting on the companion way hatch before proceeding). I do this each season singlehanded and it works great. Fair winds, Tom
 
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Jim Loats

Thanks, Sean

I have a better idea what you are talking about now. If you can "phake Toto" that would be cool, too. I am on my way to the BVI on Tuesday (yaHoo) so I'll look for your reply June 2. I'll get serious about ordering the unit right about then too. Thanks, Jim s/v Grizzly Bear
 
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